Sartorial temptations never taken

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Not at all. That would be ridiculous. I have read that in addition to being one of the great craftsman of tailoring (and one of the few remaining in America, sadly), he is very responsive to customer request. He might even make things that defy good taste to please his customer. Or so I have read. I think that you explain this clearly in the fifth paragraph. I have no doubts he turns out handsome product for the right client, although again, the two times have have met someone in his work, the style of it seem somewhat dated. But it could very well have the men in the suits, since they were bland legal functionaries. And maybe they were just wearing old suits and were suffering the decline that catches up to us all. - B
I am flattered that you are a fan of my writing but that has no relationship to these cuffs. In this case, these cuffs are the ones that Nino suggested and both he and I consider them in the best of taste. So both tailor and client were in accord. I do not hold myself out to be a tailor or give tailoring advice. However, I do know the difference between an amateur tailor and a bona fide master tailor.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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I am flattered that you are a fan of my writing

You are the densest person on the face of the earth. If someone spit in your face, you would thank them for their thoughtfulness in giving you a little relief from the heat.

Originally Posted by LabelKing

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I tend to think turnbacks look better on simple minimalist suits like those from the '60s.

Is this precisely because they are so un-minimalistic?

I have a velvet smoking jacket from the late 50's with turnback cuffs. No buttons though. I had always wondered what these were called, thanks.

Originally Posted by Concordia

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Not obvious at first glance, but true 'nuff if you bother to enlarge the photo.
Desperation is the mother of photo enlargement. Mahon's is probably not as complex to make as mine was but it is interesting that he veered from the curved one that A&S apparently exalts. Does Mahon post here? It would be interesting to get his take on this detail. Where's Will when you need him?

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

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This is why I'm embracing the crazy early on. By the time I'm an old man, my stuff should be absolutely bonkers.
I look forward to being old and wearing whatever the hell I feel like no matter how crazy it is. ... Wait.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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Does Mahon post here? It would be interesting to get his take on this detail. Where's Will when you need him?
You could ask Savile Row Master Tailor Darren Beaman.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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I am flattered that you are a fan of my writing but that has no relationship to these cuffs.

Sometimes I find something that interests me.

When the moon and stars align, that is.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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In this case, these cuffs are the ones that Nino suggested and both he and I consider them in the best of taste. So both tailor and client were in accord.

Okay.

I think that everyone can see that by your own description, Mr. Corvato will ably make clothing that is questionable in taste for clients who request it. If he can make entire ensembles that are carefully contructed deviations from taste, he would seem capable of agreeing to details on otherwise tasteful clothes that might also be a bit deviant from what makes person look good, or as you might put it, look good to others. That's all.

Many tailors are similarly accommodating; but some are not.

I don't feel strongly about your turnback cuffs. I would not get them for myself, but I am happy if you are happy. I am curious about the history of turnback cuffs, but do not view that as inherently limiting to a contemporary application.

The only thing that gives me objective pause about your photo is that the cutting of the buttonholes and placement of the buttons seem a tad irregular compared to what I would like to see for myself.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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I do not hold myself out to be a tailor or give tailoring advice. However, I do know the difference between an amateur tailor and a bona fide master tailor.

Is this a reference to Mr. Beaman?

He tailors to the stars, you know.


- B

Who has time to post here this week? Today is day two of Lakme Fashion Week (India). The new saris are especially nice and their great chest coverage means we won't need to wear toupees on our chest to keep up with iammatt.

Originally Posted by Will

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Who has time to post here this week? Today is day two of Lakme Fashion Week (India). The new saris are especially nice and their great chest coverage means we won't need to wear toupees on our chest to keep up with iammatt.
WYMWWM? Wigga pleaz. Men don't wear saris (unless you're a hijra deep in A Suitable Closet) and, um, have you SEEN Indian men? They put teh "bear" in RJmanbearpig.

Originally Posted by RJmanbearpig

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WYMWWM? Wigga pleaz. Men don't wear saris (unless you're a hijra deep in A Suitable Closet) and, um, have you SEEN Indian men? They put teh "bear" in RJmanbearpig.

I understand there's a manbearpig born every minute.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Sometimes I find something that interests me.

Why, thank you

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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When the moon and stars align, that is.
Aww, that was unworthy of you

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Okay. I think that everyone can see that by your own description, Mr. Corvato will ably make clothing that is questionable in taste for clients who request it. If he can make entire ensembles that are carefully contructed deviations from taste, he would seem capable of agreeing to details on otherwise tasteful clothes that might also be a bit deviant from what makes person look good, or as you might put it, look good to others. That's all.
Those were my words, not his. I didnt get the cuffs because I thought it would appeal to people online. I dont take a huge stock of the responsibility or honesty (or frankly taste or knowledge of online folks) I got them because I wanted them and because I knew that the people I interact with would find them interesting. Whether or not a couple of people who seem to live to discredit me want to crash and burn when they get their facts wrong is another story and one that amuses me. Because you see it isnt me that's bothered, it's the new entrants that suffer from the calculated misinformation.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Many tailors are similarly accommodating; but some are not.
If you have a better tailor, pony up.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I don't feel strongly about your turnback cuffs. I would not get them for myself, but I am happy if you are happy. I am curious about the history of turnback cuffs, but do not view that as inherently limiting to a contemporary application.
I dont either. I didnt post them to discuss them, I posted them as an example of something Id wanted to try for a while and finally did and then asked if other people had similar experiences. Although I can see that it caused a commotion.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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The only thing that gives me objective pause about your photo is that the cutting of the buttonholes and placement of the buttons seem a tad irregular compared to what I would like to see for myself.
Well, when you make a suit or get one made with cuffs, you can get them done any way you like. I wouldnt copy anyone else either and I wouldnt want anyone to copy me.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Is this a reference to Mr. Beaman? He tailors to the stars, you know. - B
Not at all. And, I didn't realize he was a tailor to the stars. I was thinking of an amateur tailor who hung up his gloves.

Originally Posted by Will

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Who has time to post here this week? Today is day two of Lakme Fashion Week (India). The new saris are especially nice and their great chest coverage means we won't need to wear toupees on our chest to keep up with iammatt.
Can I get a link to this cuffed suit article?

Originally Posted by Will

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I understand there's a manbearpig born every minute.

Are you serial?

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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Can I get a link to this cuffed suit article?

Click Will's hand and you will be magically transported.




- B

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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because I knew that the people I interact with would find them interesting.

FNB...we haven't chatted in a while. I absolutely applaud your desire to indulge yourself with bespoke, that's one of the pleasures, at least for me. My Shattuck suit is a prime example of that. I know it has it anti-Frans.

The quote above consternates me, though. Is this really a criteria (perhaps one of many) for the style decisions that you make? If you care to expound, I'm interested in better understanding why this is important to you.