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Sartorial temptations never taken

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Film Noir Buff, Oct 22, 2008.

  1. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    If you've seen the film Wall Street, you might remember Michael Douglas in a grey flannel suit with turn back cuffs on the sleeves telling Charlie Sheen that he controlled the price of a paperclip. I never forgot the image, it seemed so unusual, so powerful, and something Id never considered. I finally had it done on a navy cashmere chalk stripe suit but it was a while in the making and I harbored it on my list of sartorial items to get. [​IMG] Now my dream is to get initial cloth that which has stripes composed of the words "Yankee Pinstripes" or "Blondes Brunettes Redheads" for social occasions. What has been your sartorial temptation that you've never indulged in or which took you a long time to treat yourself to?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bash me all you want about rules and pedantry, etc., but that is NOT the way a turnback cuff is supposed to look. None of the buttons are supposed to be cut through it. And the edges are supposed to be curved. See this pic, from Flusser, first sleeve on the left:

    [​IMG]

    Maybe a little more attention to tradition would have saved you from this.
     
  3. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    I sometimes wear a cords tuxedo with satin lapels and turnback cuffs. Not sure what the rules have to say about that aside from "NO!!". For what it's worth they're shaped the traditional way.
     
  4. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    Bash me all you want about rules and pedantry, etc., but that is NOT the way a turnback cuff is supposed to look. ...
    +1
     
  5. medwards

    medwards Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you've seen the film Wall Street, you might remember Michael Douglas in a grey flannel suit with turn back cuffs on the sleeves telling Charlie Sheen that he controlled the price of a paperclip. I never forgot the image, it seemed so unusual, so powerful, and something Id never considered. I finally had it done on a navy cashmere chalk stripe suit but it was a while in the making and I harbored it on my list of sartorial items to get.

    It was a temptation that you should have resisted.
     
  6. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    +1

    +2
     
  7. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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  8. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

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    Yeah that looks kind of stupid. It looks like you are wearing trousers on your arms.
     
  9. quartzguy

    quartzguy Active Member

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    Let me guess, you don't work on Wall St.. And if you do I suspect it won't be for long once you wear that suit into the office.
     
  10. passingtime

    passingtime Senior member

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    Bash me all you want about rules and pedantry, etc., but that is NOT the way a turnback cuff is supposed to look. None of the buttons are supposed to be cut through it. And the edges are supposed to be curved.
    Here are some examples of cuff styles from a 1900 cutters guide. The Flusser example is in there but so are a lot of others including examples with cut through buttons.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I never forgot the image, it seemed so unusual, so powerful, and something Id never considered.

    I finally had it done on a navy cashmere chalk stripe suit but it was a while in the making and I harbored it on my list of sartorial items to get.


    Somehow, NC seems to have combined the eccentricity of the turnback cuff with none of its merits. But if you like it, c'est la vie.

    The biggest sartorial temptation that I have never taken is a full fur coat.

    So far, I have compromised with an Invertère bearcat, which is fuzzy like iammatt.


    - B
     
  12. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I'm thinking about a Bias-stripe DB like the one RSS posted a while back. [​IMG]
     
  13. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Bash me all you want about rules and pedantry, etc., but that is NOT the way a turnback cuff is supposed to look. None of the buttons are supposed to be cut through it. And the edges are supposed to be curved. See this pic, from Flusser, first sleeve on the left:

    [​IMG]

    Maybe a little more attention to tradition would have saved you from this.


    I never liked curves on turnbacks and wouldn't order them that way. Ces't la vie.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here are some examples of cuff styles from a 1900 cutters guide. The Flusser example is in there but so are a lot of others including examples with cut through buttons.

    [​IMG]


    I've only seen two shops do it, Flusser and A&S; both did the the curved way, no cut through. As, I should add, was the one that inspired FNB from the movie -- made by Flusser.

    Whatever the historical accuracy of FNB's cuff, it looks bloody awful.

    And, anyway, historical pedant that I am, I would not take my cues for a 2008 suit from a 1900 cutter's guide. I will leave that to Sator. And, now, to FNB as well.
     
  15. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Yeah that looks kind of stupid. It looks like you are wearing trousers on your arms.
    Very astute. I didn't want the one Flusser makes. I wanted one that was subtle and unique. But for those of you interested in facts and traditions: Historically this sort of cuff on my suit sleeve goes back a long way but it was perfected by two of the best dressed gentlemen in NYC during the 1950s, co-proprietors of a high end clothing company and by another company out of California who also sold in the very best stores in NYC during the 1960s-70s. It was adopted by Brooks Brothers exactly how you see it pictured above as the best version of the turnback cuff for the suit sleeve. Basically the Flusser version is an imitation cuff done with a seam and is considered "junk" in the industry. The cut through cuff on my suit is a "pure" cuff, a separate piece of fabric sewn on top of the sleeve edge with a functional buttonhole. It is uniform to match the pants and provides a flatter, slimmer silhouette which is very refined. Only the most skilled tailors would even attempt to create a cuff like this on a jacket sleeve. It is difficult to set it right and sew it smoothly. In this case the cuff was pieced together so skillfully that my tailor had to purposefully misalign the stripes for it to be noticed. This in contradistinction to the curved-Flusser cuff which is too in your face. If someone doesn't like it, that's fine but this is a unique, subtle, custom detail.[​IMG]
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Historically this sort of cuff on my suit sleeve goes back a long way but it was perfected by two of the best dressed gentlemen in NYC during the 1950s, co-proprietors of a high end clothing company and by another company out of California who also sold in the very best stores in NYC during the 1960s-70s. It was adopted by Brooks Brothers exactly how you see it pictured above as the best version of the turnback cuff for the suit sleeve.

    Can you name names for once in your life? Who were these "best dressed gentlemen"? Night club owners?

    [​IMG] Yeah, and on Savile Row, too.

    This makes no sense. The Flusser cuff is phony because it has a seam whereas yours is correct because it is a sewn on seperate piece? Wouldn't that have to have a seam too?

    Translation, "I admit that Tarmac is right."

    You are the first person I have ever come accross to express concern about the silhouette of his sleeves and to assert that they needed slimming.
     
  17. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Here are some examples of cuff styles from a 1900 cutters guide. The Flusser example is in there but so are a lot of others including examples with cut through buttons. [​IMG]
    Thanks for that. Basically a reaffirmation of what I've always known. But be charitable, he doesn't know any better. [​IMG]
     
  18. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    If someone doesn't like it, that's fine but this is a unique, subtle, custom detail.[​IMG]

    Why is the bottom button so seperated from the other three?

    It jumps out at me, and not in good way. Is that the way Brooks Brothers did their version?


    - B
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for that.

    Basically a reaffirmation of what I've always known. But be charitable, he doesn't know any better. [​IMG]


    Is that a reference to me? I thought you never referenced me?!? [​IMG]

    By the way, which is it? Do you want to blame that atrocity on "two well dressed gentlemen" from the '50s, or on a 1900 pattern book? Which, incidentally, does not show the configuration you got. And all of those sleeves look like they are from sports clothes or military uniforms, not a business or lounge suit, which in any case scarecely existed at the time.

    And, oh one more thing, isn't it a bit rich for you of all people to run to the authoity of a 1900 pattern book given your endless bloviation in the shawl lapel thread about all those losers who are constantly just aping the past and have no style of their own?
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is that the way Brooks Brothers did their version?

    [​IMG]
     

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