Where's all the Savile Row stuff?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

    Messages:
    849
    Likes Received:
    65
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    I know someone who has a few Kilgour Shanghai-suits. I was not tremendously impressed, I took them for Paul Smith London at first blush - machine-made buttonholes (keyhole on the lapel, no less!) were the biggest thing that astounded me.
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    I know someone who has a few Kilgour Shanghai-suits. I was not tremendously impressed, I took them for Paul Smith London at first blush - machine-made buttonholes (keyhole on the lapel, no less!) were the biggest thing that astounded me.

    Keyhole buttonholes on the lapel are the rule for southerm Italian bespoke...I only have the obverse photo for a closeup, but here is the back of the lapel of the Solito...

    [​IMG]

    ...that I posed in WAYWRN here.

    Rubinacci does a keyhole as well.

    My English tailor, of course, would never do that. It is only anathema regionally, however.

    - B
     
  3. misterjase

    misterjase Senior member

    Messages:
    266
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2007
    I find my preferences are orientated toward the traditional - British style. As a result, I find that I am drawn to Savile Row and what is offered there.

    For what it is worth, I like the feel of what is represented by the style (and people also as I discovered after initial contact) at Richard Anderson and have commissioned trousers (not jackets or suits - yet) from abroad (since I don't travel much) - a sort of "made to measure by remote" if you like. I was surprised to find that the firm was more than approachable and agreeable with the concept which was not what I expected before initial contact.
     
  4. RSS

    RSS Senior member

    Messages:
    10,042
    Likes Received:
    290
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2008
    Location:
    No.1 Nonsuch Place
    A member above asked for examples of Double Breasted suits.

    Anderson & Sheppard [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson
    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson detail
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    A member above asked for examples of Double Breasted suits.

    Anderson & Sheppard [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  6. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Richard Anderson
    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson detail
    [​IMG]


    Most interesting. Are those darts running all the way down to the bottom of the skirt?

    And what is that cloth? Are you sure you didn't accidentally walk into Boateng? [​IMG]
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    305
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    That RA suit is making me dizzy, but I really like the A&S DB posted.
     
  8. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Richard Anderson
    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson detail
    [​IMG]


    Hmmm. I like it.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I'm pretty sure the RA diagonal is house cloth. It's definitely a look they highlight.
     
  10. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

    Messages:
    6,134
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2005
    A member above asked for examples of Double Breasted suits. Anderson & Sheppard [​IMG] Richard Anderson [​IMG] Richard Anderson detail [​IMG]
    I think that DB windowpane looks very nice, that the pattern is well set and overall the suit looks great on you. The other suit I like even more both the cut and the fabric; where is it from?
     
  11. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

    Messages:
    11,179
    Likes Received:
    114
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2005
    Location:
    Sunny Saigon
    I don't know that I could do a diagonal stripe, suspect I would get vertigo every time I looked down, but hey, more power to ya....
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Dormeuil has this diagonal pattern. Do not recall which book.
     
  13. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    RSS: I remember discussing that diagonal striped RA suit when you posted it on AAAC some time ago. I don't get it at all, and at the time you said you were still figuring out what to do with it. How has that gone? When do you wear it?
     
  14. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

    Messages:
    6,134
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2005
    Dormeuil has this diagonal pattern. Do not recall which book.
    i have something similar but the stripes are much closer together giving the suit something of a solid look from a distance. It's from the Holland and Sherry Moresque book and it's a lot softer than the material for this suit appears to be. RSS' suit seems more suited for business and mine for afterhours. I do like that fabric though, did you remember what quality it was?
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,029
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Excuse my ignorance: what explains the hate for windowpane DB suits?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by