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Where's all the Savile Row stuff?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Andre, thanks for the comprehensive and upfront account. I can't say that my own decisions have been particularly well-grounded. Although I was certainly attracted to the reputation and history, I picked Rubinacci because I wanted something 'soft' and 'Neapolitan'--vague notions at best.

    Not to discount the randomness of your choice, but in retrospect, if I were in your shoes, I think I'd be more comfortable, because you had Iammatt's pictures, experience, and advice to go on, and could see the product itself. On the other hand, perhaps that's offset by the need to travel to Naples to see your tailor which is relatively difficult. Nevertheless, custom is a big risk, especially considering the high price and long lead times.

    I know of at least one poster here who is not happy with Tom's work, but I think that will be true for any tailor no matter how good. If there's one thing I've learned about the custom process is that the relationship between client and tailor is very important for both sides: for the tailor to understand what the client wants, and for the client's expectations to meet reality.

    --Andre
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not to discount the randomness of your choice, but in retrospect, if I were in your shoes, I think I'd be more comfortable, because you had Iammatt's pictures, experience, and advice to go on, and could see the product itself. On the other hand, perhaps that's offset by the need to travel to Naples to see your tailor which is relatively difficult. Nevertheless, custom is a big risk, especially considering the high price and long lead times.

    Iammatt's procedural guidance and lessons on the fact and fiction of Neapolitan style/tailoring were the most helpful factors to me. But I didn't really understand what he meant until later on--even now I have trouble describing Rubinacci's style. Stupidly, I didn't take a careful look at his pictures at the time; I only began browsing the WAYWT threads later on.

    So, you are definitely right: having someone else's path to follow is really invaluable. Yet one more reason to post pictures!
     
  3. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    But I didn't really understand what he meant until later on--even now I have trouble describing Rubinacci's style.

    Same difficulty for me for the SR take on Scholte. Before doing custom, I thought suits were just shoulders and silhouette, having experienced only the homogeneity of RTW, but now I realize there are a lot more things going on, most of which are beyond my ability to verbally articulate.

    --Andre
     
  4. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Feel free to post the pictures of the various coats ... I'm the same RSS as the RSS of AskAndy ... and don't mind one bit that they might be posted here on my uhhhh ... well ... uhhh ... preferred style forum.

    The only thing I might add is that I'm sorry for being so stiff in the various shots ... but I wanted to do my best to give an apples to apples comparison. Also ... I have no clue how that pocket square got that way ... perhaps my assistant/make-up artist -- my niece -- for the photo-shoot assisted a bit too much. Also ... as I recall, the wrinkle in the A&S is from having been improperly placed in the garment bag the night before the photos were taken. Perhaps I can re-shoot that soon ... as that problem was remedied shortly thereafter.

    As an addition to this thread ... I'll see if I can find a photo of a recent A&S coat ... the one button in house tweed with a butter yellow lining -- and yes, RJman ... it is indeed Land O'Lakes and not Imperial margarine [​IMG] [​IMG] yellow. Perhaps some might consider it better fitting.

    In fact ... I'll just re-post the removed pics personally ... from my computer ... and not as copied from another website ... so there can be no ill feelings. And feel free to copy the new links and paste in the previous post ... if appropriate.

    EDIT: Oh ... as for a less stifly posed photo ... I add the one at the very bottom ... which was taken for professional purposes. You know ... if it would help ... I could have coats by the various tailors re-shot in more natural poses ... but I'm not sure it would be apples to apples ... pehaps apples to dates?


    The Dege Coat: [​IMG]

    The Huntsman Coat: [​IMG]

    The Richard Anderson Coat: [​IMG]

    The Anderson & Sheppard Coat: [​IMG]

    A Not so Stiffly Posed Richard Anderson: [​IMG]

    Further Edit: (obvoiusly I'm not working hard enough today)

    [P]lease -- for the love of pete, and any newbies -- please make a comment in these situations that such articles of clothing are not to be aspired to by the vast majority of forum browsers....)
    Warning:
    Choice may be hazardous to your mental health ...
    particularly if you are concerned about your reception on this and other fora.


    Such articles of clothing
    (or rather the wearer's choice thereof)
    are likely not in the best interest
    of the vast majority of forum browsers.

    One should aspire to these articles of clothing

    (or rather the wearer's choice thereof)
    only if such clothing represent what one desires.

    ! ! !
     
    2 people like this.
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Feel free to post the pictures of the various coats ... I'm the same RSS as the RSS of AskAndy ... and don't mind one bit that they might be posted here on my uhhhh ... well ... uhhh ... preferred style forum.

    It is good to see you here, S.

    - B
     
  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Dege rules

    [​IMG]


    I like the balance and skirt of the RA the best actually. The fabric is making my eyes bleed though [​IMG]
     
  9. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

    Now RJman ... you know better. Scott does ... as RSS.

    It's just that he was too busy in Hong Kong for the past week to look at a computer screen.

    EDIT: And as almost everyone who knows me as RSS knows I'm Scott ... perhaps I can convince the powers that be to change my name to RSS/Scott.
     
  10. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Very interesting pictures. If I had to choose, I would go for the Dege cut, but I really like the cloth on the A & S. coat. Two regrets: why are the coats 2 button only? I prefer 3 buttons which would show less shirt/tie. And why no DB? But that is just a question of (my) taste.
    Thank you for the pictures.
    Frog in Suit


    As many of you may recall ... A&S was my first tailor. After many years I decided I wanted some clothing with a bit more shape ... and I tried Dege first. The main reason I did not stick with Dege ... is that after A&S it felt too stiff. Huntsman was next ... and is certainly softer than Dege ... but nothing is as soft as A&S. I then left Huntsman when Richard & Brian left to begin Richard Anderson. I now consider myself a client of Richard Anderson & Anderson & Sheppard.

    I too like the cloth on the A&S ... and the recent one button I reference in the first post is in the same pattern -- an A&S house tweed -- but a different colorway ... a "heathered" gray with brown windowpane.

    The Dege and A&S in the photos are two button ... the Huntsman & R.A. are both one-button. My most recent A&S is one button also. I'll remember to post that as soon as I have a snapshot made.

    As for DB ... I have DB suits from A&S & R.A. ... I'll just have to find the time to snap some shots. It might take a week or two ... as I leave town again later this week. Now that gives a thought ... I'll take one of each on the upcoming trip ... as there is sure to be someone with a camera.

    And RJman ... I'll pose naturally. I promise. And this is not one of those promises akin the death of the cowboy with the slower draw in some silent movie about the Wild West ... or for that matter, my resignation from AskKabbaz (may I borrow?) ... where I fall but get up ... only to fall and rise again ... fall one last time ... nope, up once more ... then down to the ground for good ... but with feet kicking into the air ... then all limp ... no ... no ... one last kick ... oops, make that two ... ahhhh, peace at last!
     
  11. itsraylamb

    itsraylamb Active Member

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    I wish I knew how to post pictures. I would love to get your opinions. I have used Kilgour and Thomas Mahon and I a quite happy with both.
     
  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I wish I knew how to post pictures. I would love to get your opinions. I have used Kilgour and Thomas Mahon and I a quite happy with both.

    If you send them to me, I can post them for you.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wish I knew how to post pictures. I would love to get your opinions. I have used Kilgour and Thomas Mahon and I a quite happy with both.

    If you send them to me, I can post them for you.

    I have a lot of excess space on my photobucket account, so I'd be happy to host anything anyone's got. If people would be interested, I could do a reference page on my blog with pictures of people wearing different bespoke suits.
     
  14. houserichichi

    houserichichi Senior member

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    Of course I do not claim to be an expert but the Dege and first RA silhouettes are the most pleasing to my eyes. I think I'd have to opt for the RA only for the sake that its quarters appear much more open and that's much more up my alley. My qualm with the look of the A&S is that the ticket pocket looks much too high or at least far too spaced from its cousin below as well as the jacket looking a bit too blousy. But then if that's the shape that they typically cut then who am I to argue? Only on SF and one or two other fora could one say they don't like the looks of a Savile Row suit.

    Anyone have a finished Darren B suit? I'd love to see what they look like on a body as the body he cut was always appealing to me.

    Thanks for posting the pics, RSS. Very inspiring.
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Anyone have a finished Darren B suit?

    [​IMG]

    - B
     
  16. houserichichi

    houserichichi Senior member

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    Aw crap...I'm in trouble, aren't I? [​IMG]
     
  17. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    The Richard Anderson Coat: [​IMG]


    Honestly, I think that is about the most Richard Anderson a coat I've ever seen.
     
  18. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    That Richard Anderson jacket is very attractive. Many thanks for the samples RSS!
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. tazmaniac

    tazmaniac Senior member

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    Would pictures help? I'm not sure--but maybe. For me, pictures of the fitting process are some of the most enlightening. It's hard to see the intricacies of how something is constructed and shaped when you're looking at the final product. At that point, it tends to simply look good or bad.

    Sorry, mafoofan, I failed miserably. I just had a fitting in Zurich with Welsh&Jefferies and I really should have taken some pictures, especially since it's my first suit with them. I think I will post pictures of the finished product anyhow, though...
     
  20. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Honestly, I think that is about the most Richard Anderson a coat I've ever seen.

    I like the balance and skirt of the RA the best actually. The fabric is making my eyes bleed though [​IMG]

    As I wrote to gdl203 in a PM ... Doesn't it look as though that cloth were meant to be upholstery fabric? Believe it or not ... there is a second one here in town. The owner and I had a Dior "same gown" moment at a recent event. Neither of us could believe that anyone else selected that particular cloth.
     

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