First Savile Row Bespoke Suit - Which Tailor?

[fatpauljackson]

Hi everyone - I recently moved to London and it's clear that the level of dress is a step-up from America. I also wanted to treat myself to a little Christmas present, and so I will be getting my first bespoke suit from Savile Row. Not aiming for anything crazy, but something classic, functional, and usable for business-wear several times a month.

I wanted to ask a few super basic questions just in terms of how the house cut from the big tailoring houses differ - e.g., A&S, Henry Poole, Huntsman, etc. I understand that there's a spectrum between the softer A&S drape-cut and the more military-uniform like others, but what does that mean tactically? Can anyone describe in detail the actual differences? And where might you all who have gone through the process suggest I start? Finally, any strong opinions on places to avoid?

I appreciate that this topic must have been covered ad nauseum before, but unfortunately I'm finding the search function limited here (or perhaps I don't know how to use it). Thanks very much for any input you can provide, and happy holidays!

 

[taxgenius]

Have you tried looking at their completed garments on their websites?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Hi everyone - I recently moved to London and it's clear that the level of dress is a step-up from America. I also wanted to treat myself to a little Christmas present, and so I will be getting my first bespoke suit from Savile Row. Not aiming for anything crazy, but something classic, functional, and usable for business-wear several times a month.

I wanted to ask a few super basic questions just in terms of how the house cut from the big tailoring houses differ - e.g., A&S, Henry Poole, Huntsman, etc. I understand that there's a spectrum between the softer A&S drape-cut and the more military-uniform like others, but what does that mean tactically? Can anyone describe in detail the actual differences? And where might you all who have gone through the process suggest I start? Finally, any strong opinions on places to avoid?

I appreciate that this topic must have been covered ad nauseum before, but unfortunately I'm finding the search function limited here (or perhaps I don't know how to use it). Thanks very much for any input you can provide, and happy holidays!

Have you tried looking at their completed garments on their websites?

To piggyback off of @taxgenius's comment, I would start here to have a solid idea of what the styles look like and details you are inquiring about. After reading all the links below, return with more questions, if any.

Permanent Style

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Richard Anderson (former Huntsman guy) is, imo, your best best for a Huntsman suit or jacket (consistent execution, communicates well, listens to the customer).

Another tailor you didn't mention that is in the Edward Sexton mode is Chittleborough and Morgan. Prices are fair and product is great.

Permanent Style

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Steed (Edwin and Matthew Deboise - - Edwin former A&S guy) offers a cheaper and, by all accounts, a better executed A&S suit/jacket.

Scroll down on the page to see the jacket.

How To Tell If Soft Tailoring Is Right For You

About thirteen years ago, Carlo Brandelli, then-Creative Director of Kilgour, bragged to the Financial Times that his new Unstructured line felt featherlight...

putthison.com

There's also Thomas Mahon of Redmayne (former A&S guy & co-founder of Steed) offering that A&S style done right.

There are other tailors, but then it becomes confusing. For now, this should be enough to get you started.

 

[fatpauljackson]

To piggyback off of @taxgenius's comment, I would start here to have a solid idea of what the styles look like and details you are inquiring about. After reading all the links below, return with more questions, if any.

Permanent Style

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Richard Anderson (former Huntsman guy) is, imo, your best best for a Huntsman suit or jacket (consistent execution, communicates well, listens to the customer).

Another tailor you didn't mention that is in the Edward Sexton mode is Chittleborough and Morgan. Prices are fair and product is great.

Permanent Style

Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown

www.permanentstyle.com

Steed (Edwin and Matthew Deboise - - Edwin former A&S guy) offers a cheaper and, by all accounts, a better executed A&S suit/jacket.

Scroll down on the page to see the jacket.

How To Tell If Soft Tailoring Is Right For You

About thirteen years ago, Carlo Brandelli, then-Creative Director of Kilgour, bragged to the Financial Times that his new Unstructured line felt featherlight...

putthison.com

There's also Thomas Mahon of Redmayne (former A&S guy & co-founder of Steed) offering that A&S style done right.

There are other tailors, but then it becomes confusing. For now, this should be enough to get you started.

Really appreciate it, helpful. Yeah I have done some basic research and looked around, as I'm new to the forum but not necessarily to the space. I was wondering if people had firsthand accounts of various experiences as well to share.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Really appreciate it, helpful. Yeah I have done some basic research and looked around, as I'm new to the forum but not necessarily to the space. I was wondering if people had firsthand accounts of various experiences as well to share.

You can probably get some feedback on any specific tailors you're thinking about using in this thread if you've got that narrowed down at all. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/page-578

If you've settled on a drape tailor check the Anderson's ex pat thread here. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-anderson-sheppard-expatriates-thread.67722/page-253

 

[twuthetiger]

Hi everyone - I recently moved to London and it's clear that the level of dress is a step-up from America. I also wanted to treat myself to a little Christmas present, and so I will be getting my first bespoke suit from Savile Row. Not aiming for anything crazy, but something classic, functional, and usable for business-wear several times a month.

I wanted to ask a few super basic questions just in terms of how the house cut from the big tailoring houses differ - e.g., A&S, Henry Poole, Huntsman, etc. I understand that there's a spectrum between the softer A&S drape-cut and the more military-uniform like others, but what does that mean tactically? Can anyone describe in detail the actual differences? And where might you all who have gone through the process suggest I start? Finally, any strong opinions on places to avoid?

I appreciate that this topic must have been covered ad nauseum before, but unfortunately I'm finding the search function limited here (or perhaps I don't know how to use it). Thanks very much for any input you can provide, and happy holidays!

https://www.permanentstyle.com/the-guide-to-tailor-styles Go through this and take a look at the differences. But A&S generally gives more room in the chest and back so a tad more comfortable and the other end (Huntsman) likes a very conform to the body with clean lines (very military inspired). I would also recommend Kent&Haste or even like W&S, whom I believe are not on the row but really good quality bespoke tailors. Hope that helps!

 

[fatpauljackson]

https://www.permanentstyle.com/the-guide-to-tailor-styles Go through this and take a look at the differences. But A&S generally gives more room in the chest and back so a tad more comfortable and the other end (Huntsman) likes a very conform to the body with clean lines (very military inspired). I would also recommend Kent&Haste or even like W&S, whom I believe are not on the row but really good quality bespoke tailors. Hope that helps!

Thanks - actually going through bespoke trouser with both Kent Haste and W&S right now!

 

[twuthetiger]

Thanks - actually going through bespoke trouser with both Kent Haste and W&S right now!

Kent Haste is super popular. And the great thing is that Mr Kent and Mr Haste cuts different style jackets as well. So it’s kind of a two in one package. W&S is definitely my fav value for money bespoke house. I commissioned a navy suit and raincoat out of them. It’s kind of in between A&S and huntsman. Has drape but not as full as A&S

 

[JohnMRobie]

Kent Haste is super popular. And the great thing is that Mr Kent and Mr Haste cuts different style jackets as well. So it’s kind of a two in one package. W&S is definitely my fav value for money bespoke house. I commissioned a navy suit and raincoat out of them. It’s kind of in between A&S and huntsman. Has drape but not as full as A&S

I’ve been a bit curious at the uptick in Kent Haste popularity. Admittedly I haven’t tried them but noticed a fair number of John Kent’s customers seem to be plagued by noticeable collar gaps. I did watch the recent KirbyA videos with them and was also surprised by the willingness (bordering on encouragement) to sacrifice comfort and range of motion.

 

[Texasmade]

Really appreciate it, helpful. Yeah I have done some basic research and looked around, as I'm new to the forum but not necessarily to the space. I was wondering if people had firsthand accounts of various experiences as well to share.

You can also search on Youtube for Kirby Allison's various bespoke tailors he's used. He recently completely a couple of items from K&H as well as Henry Poole. Unfortunately he never completed his Huntsman commission which would've been great to see if he did.

 

[fatpauljackson]

You can probably get some feedback on any specific tailors you're thinking about using in this thread if you've got that narrowed down at all. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/page-578

If you've settled on a drape tailor check the Anderson's ex pat thread here. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-anderson-sheppard-expatriates-thread.67722/page-253

All, thank you for your wonderful help. In particular, this Anderson expat thread has been a gold mine of great information. Much appreciated. I'm likely to look into Steed, Redmayne, and Hitchcock especially.

 

[fatpauljackson]

On a somewhat separate note, I was wondering if Cesare Attolini does any bespoke out of London? If they travel here or anything?

I have two RTW suits from them which are the finest, best fitting suits I have worn (after basic alterations). Figured on this basis I shouldn't just limit myself to the English tailors if I can find Attolini here in London as well.

 

[JohnMRobie]

On a somewhat separate note, I was wondering if Cesare Attolini does any bespoke out of London? If they travel here or anything?

I have two RTW suits from them which are the finest, best fitting suits I have worn (after basic alterations). Figured on this basis I shouldn't just limit myself to the English tailors if I can find Attolini here in London as well.

Why Attolini rather than one of the other neapolitans who travel to London? There’s no shortage of options who specialize exclusively in bespoke. I know Ciardi, Panico, Dalcuore, Tofani, etc all go to London.

 

[jcorqian]

[QUOTE="Jmr928, post: 11244606, member: 308895"

 

[jcorqian]

Why Attolini rather than one of the other neapolitans who travel to London? There’s no shortage of options who specialize exclusively in bespoke. I know Ciardi, Panico, Dalcuore, Tofani, etc all go to London.

Any of those that you'd prefer especially? If so why?