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Where's all the Savile Row stuff?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I understand that there's no quantitative or fully objective way to compare two bespoke suits made for two different people. But I think that any afficionado of fine tailoring will be able to find some education in viewing a nicely-executed bespoke suit. Voxsartoria's recent Steed photos, Iammatt's Rubinacci photos, and all of Manton's photos (of suits whose makers I can't readily identify), have helped me better understand what I like, if nothing else.

    If you take a look at Iammatt's Rubinacci commissions and my Rubinacci jacket, it's immediately obvious that they are both similar and different in many ways. The difficulty is in pinpointing what those ways are. I'm not proposing that anybody try to triangulate a verdict on what makes a 'Rubinacci' suit, but I think trying to understand the individual differences, and what they effect, can help increase one's understanding of tailoring in general.

    So, while I agree that it would be folly to draw far-reaching conclusions from any static photo, I also think that the membership here is sophisticated enough to avoid that. Surely, seeing something is better than seeing nothing at all.
     
  2. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    A few years ago, an AAAC member named Scott posted pictures of some of his SR jackets. I liked them so much that I saved them and this looks like the perfect opportunity to put them up. Scott is no longer on the member list for AAAC, so I couldn't ask his permission and I can't find the thread where he posted his pictures. I hope he doesn't mind!

    Anderson & Sheppard bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Dege & Skinner bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Huntsman bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Huntsman MTM:

    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson bespoke:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. TIEALIGN

    TIEALIGN Senior member

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    A few years ago, an AAAC member named Scott posted pictures of some of his SR jackets. I liked them so much that I saved them and this looks like the perfect opportunity to put them up. Scott is no longer on the member list for AAAC, so I couldn't ask his permission and I can't find the thread where he posted his pictures. I hope he doesn't mind!

    Richard Anderson bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    I think the one from Richard Anderson is quite nice looking but I dont care for the slanted pockets.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ I remember that thread! The links to the images went dead a long time ago. I'm happy to see that someone had the foresight to save them. Ah, memories.
     
  5. jkennett

    jkennett Senior member

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    east coast to west and back to east. currently res
    I think the one from Richard Anderson is quite nice looking but I dont care for the slanted pockets.
    I actually like the hacking pockets. They make perfect sense with that sport coat as they lend a bit of tradition to the look, even if he'd never wear it on horseback. The waist suppression on most of those Savile Row jackets are quite nice!
     
  6. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

    Doesn't he go by the name RSS now?
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

    Scott is a gentleman. I miss his insights and infectious civility.

    - B
     
  10. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    Very interesting pictures. If I had to choose, I would go for the Dege cut, but I really like the cloth on the A & S. coat. Two regrets: why are the coats 2 button only? I prefer 3 buttons which would show less shirt/tie. And why no DB? But that is just a question of (my) taste.
    Thank you for the pictures.
    Frog in Suit
     
  11. Strange

    Strange Well-Known Member

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    Anderson & Sheppard bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    I know, I know...never make an assessment about the fit of a garment from one static photo but measured against nearly identical images from other makers (hard construction notwithstanding) the Anderson coat looks a little...um, dowdy. I've never owned one, but have handled a few and few can compare to A&S "hardly there" feel; it just seems that many of the ones I've seen werent very nicely finished. Ah well, perception....[​IMG]
     
  12. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    ^ Well, both Huntsmans are the house-standard 1 button, and so is the RA
     
  13. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    Doesn't he go by the name RSS now?

    Oops...my bad. I'll take them down if he objects.

    Or maybe we could get some new shots?? [​IMG]
     
  14. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I'm interested in hearing others' thoughts on the matter. What made you go another route? Price, style, quality, accessibility?
    I think we SR customers are too busy trolling for pictures of the British royalty to emulate to post our own pics. [​IMG] Seriously, I think Will's posted a few pictures on his blogsite from different SR tailors, but you probably want more than that. To be honest, the reasons I picked my tailor were his blog, and the pictures of his suits on himself. I know I harp on pictures not telling the complete story, but there it is. It's obviously a huge leap of faith, but I think it's paid off for me. At the time, I was trying to decide between Trabalza, who is in LA, Kilgour (who visits LA), and Mahon (who visits SF). I ruled out Trabalza because he was getting pretty old, and I wanted someone with a rather strong house style because I didn't know much if anything about any of the details that go into a suit's look. From seeing the Oxxford Radcliffe introduced around then (fall 2006) I knew all too well how incoherent a suit could look if one indiscriminately picked and chose different features from many different styles. So it came down to Kilgour and Mahon, and I picked Mahon, partly because I was caught up in the Internet fora drape frenzy, and mostly because I liked the transparency and the feel of his operation through the blog. There weren't very many customers of his on the fora, so I didn't have any recommendations to go on. Knowing what I know now, I was pretty lucky, as it was kind of decided on a lark. --Andre
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    So it came down to Kilgour and Mahon, and I picked Mahon, partly because I was caught up in the Internet fora drape frenzy, and mostly because I liked the transparency and the feel of his operation through the blog. There weren't very many customers of his on the fora, so I didn't have any recommendations to go on. Knowing what I know now, I was pretty lucky, as it was kind of decided on a lark.

    --Andre


    If we ever meet, Andre, I have some interesting stories to share with you.

    - B
     
  16. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    If we ever meet, Andre, I have some interesting stories to share with you.

    [​IMG] If that gets too scary, at least we can talk about our other eerily similar hobbies, like your beautifully modified car. [​IMG]

    --Andre
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    [​IMG] If that gets too scary, at least we can talk about our other eerily similar hobbies, like your beautifully modified car. [​IMG]

    --Andre


    Hah! Not scary at all...the Edwin and Tom novella is fun and great, almost a caper, and even better because they remain great pals. The two mates together this past New Year's Eve morning:

    [​IMG]

    Edwin on the left, Tom on the right. Alan Pitt behind on the right...Paul Griffith behind on the left...I imagine Paul puts together your coats. With Edwin, Tom, and Alan together, you have quite a concentrated mass of direct Scholte descendants.

    Uhm, do you track your car?

    - B
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Andre, thanks for the comprehensive and upfront account. I can't say that my own decisions have been particularly well-grounded. Although I was certainly attracted to the reputation and history, I picked Rubinacci because I wanted something 'soft' and 'Neapolitan'--vague notions at best.

    I didn't foresee how much I would benefit from Mariano's excellent judgment. I recall Iammatt mentioning something to me way back on AAAC about how one should pick Rubinacci for Mariano's taste and not for the sake of an involved collaboration. I didn't fully get what he was talking about until my first fitting in Naples. I really lucked out.

    It looks like you've found a similarly trusty advisor in Mahon. But neither you nor I could have known how much we would come to depend upon our respective tailors until the choice had already been made. In that sense, I don't think there's a way to go about picking a tailor without taking a huge risk.

    Would pictures help? I'm not sure--but maybe. For me, pictures of the fitting process are some of the most enlightening. It's hard to see the intricacies of how something is constructed and shaped when you're looking at the final product. At that point, it tends to simply look good or bad.

    I think we SR customers are too busy trolling for pictures of the British royalty to emulate to post our own pics. [​IMG] Seriously, I think Will's posted a few pictures on his blogsite from different SR tailors, but you probably want more than that.

    To be honest, the reasons I picked my tailor were his blog, and the pictures of his suits on himself. I know I harp on pictures not telling the complete story, but there it is. It's obviously a huge leap of faith, but I think it's paid off for me.

    At the time, I was trying to decide between Trabalza, who is in LA, Kilgour (who visits LA), and Mahon (who visits SF). I ruled out Trabalza because he was getting pretty old, and I wanted someone with a rather strong house style because I didn't know much if anything about any of the details that go into a suit's look. From seeing the Oxxford Radcliffe introduced around then (fall 2006) I knew all too well how incoherent a suit could look if one indiscriminately picked and chose different features from many different styles.

    So it came down to Kilgour and Mahon, and I picked Mahon, partly because I was caught up in the Internet fora drape frenzy, and mostly because I liked the transparency and the feel of his operation through the blog. There weren't very many customers of his on the fora, so I didn't have any recommendations to go on. Knowing what I know now, I was pretty lucky, as it was kind of decided on a lark.
     
  19. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    I'm breathing a sigh of relief. That's a great picture. Paul does put my coats together ... in his shed!

    The Corkscrew at Laguna Seca:
    [​IMG]

    Buttonwillow:
    [​IMG]

    The BMW 328Ci's retired from track duty (with about 5000 track miles out of 108K miles), and only does normal driving duties these days. It has Bilstein PSS9s, UUC sway bars, strut bar, and short shift kit. The Porsche is stock.

    --Andre
     
  20. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    ^^^ Sweet. I'll have to dig out photos from Le Circuit Mont-Tremblant...

    - B
     

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