Where's all the Savile Row stuff?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. Philosoph

    Philosoph Senior member

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    I would suggest that the only valid comparison would be between different garments, by different makers, on the same person.

    This is a good point. When I was trying to educate myself about suit terminology and fit, some of the most helpful threads I found were on London Lounge where someone would post pics of suits or jackets from different makers. Done this way, it was fairly easy to see differences between them. I think iammatt had a thread over there like this with something like 5 different jackets.
     
  2. sammy

    sammy Senior member

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    My SR experience has been with Kilgour and their entry-level bespoke service. I prefer the military style and a one-button jacket, which is Kilgour's default house style. I was measured at their SR shop last fall during a layover in London for a business trip. Since I would be using their visiting tailor service, I requested to be fitted by their cutter, Campbell Carey, who visits Washington DC. I had my basted fitting in February and should receive the finished suit by the end of the month.
     
  3. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    What went wrong in teh RJManton Q&A?


    Nothing, the RJManton Q&A was great.... I just don't like to be a too much of a taker.[​IMG]
     
  4. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    RSS had some wonderfully informative posts/pictures about his A&S, Huntsman and Richard Anderson clothes on Ask Kabbaz a few years ago.

    I honestly think that stiffly posed pictures of someone in his bespoke suit are not that helpful.

    Kuro, no worries. If you start to "Bresch out", we'll tell you. That said, I'm no expert on anything.
     
  5. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    I would add that, even with the same tailor --and I am certainly not going to more than one at a time, for many reasons-- things change with time: the cutter will get a more precise idea of what fits you over several orders, so suit number 2will fit closer than suit no1, no 3 better than no 2 and so on... Also, he will refine his idea of what looks good on you and what you like (cloth weight, colour, etc...). Ditto of your tastes: with experience (ordering and wearing), you will acquire a better idea of what you like and what you think suits you (hopefully the tailor will agree...) and what you find useful.

    A conscientious tailor will not want you to walk out with an ill-fitting suit. Mr. Munday (M & M/Jones Chalk & Dawson) likes me to wear a suit a couple of times at least , then bring it back for inspection. That led to one or two extra fittings on my first order, so he could tweak a few things. Time (for me) well spent.

    Speaking for myself, many years ago, I used to hedge my bets and have trousers with both belt loops and brace buttons. Experience has shown me that I never need take my jacket off in public so I have dispensed with loops and only get braces (with a fishtail ?? waist back). The exception: a navy blazer with dark grey trousers, now in process: the trousers will have both Daks straps and brace buttons, because I might conceivably take the blazer off in summer. Slanted pokets I found too limiting so I only have one tweed suit and one tweed coat with them, both more than fifteen years old and I will not get more (I know one should never say never...). I always get the same pocket arrangement on a DB suit. I always get a waistcoat with a SB, and that is always 3-button. I could go on and bore you into slumber, but you get the idea.

    All this evolution is based on an exchange of ideas with the cutter. Ask questions, make hints, but do pay attention to the tailor's response. If you feel he is resisting, then do not push too hard: he is the professional and knows wherof he speaks! Mutual trust built over time is what this is all about. Going back to my earlier post, this is why choosing your tailor carefully is so important.

    I have blathered long enough.[​IMG]

    Frog in Suit
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I understand that there's no quantitative or fully objective way to compare two bespoke suits made for two different people. But I think that any afficionado of fine tailoring will be able to find some education in viewing a nicely-executed bespoke suit. Voxsartoria's recent Steed photos, Iammatt's Rubinacci photos, and all of Manton's photos (of suits whose makers I can't readily identify), have helped me better understand what I like, if nothing else.

    If you take a look at Iammatt's Rubinacci commissions and my Rubinacci jacket, it's immediately obvious that they are both similar and different in many ways. The difficulty is in pinpointing what those ways are. I'm not proposing that anybody try to triangulate a verdict on what makes a 'Rubinacci' suit, but I think trying to understand the individual differences, and what they effect, can help increase one's understanding of tailoring in general.

    So, while I agree that it would be folly to draw far-reaching conclusions from any static photo, I also think that the membership here is sophisticated enough to avoid that. Surely, seeing something is better than seeing nothing at all.
     
  7. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

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    A few years ago, an AAAC member named Scott posted pictures of some of his SR jackets. I liked them so much that I saved them and this looks like the perfect opportunity to put them up. Scott is no longer on the member list for AAAC, so I couldn't ask his permission and I can't find the thread where he posted his pictures. I hope he doesn't mind!

    Anderson & Sheppard bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Dege & Skinner bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Huntsman bespoke:

    [​IMG]

    Huntsman MTM:

    [​IMG]

    Richard Anderson bespoke:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. TIEALIGN

    TIEALIGN Senior member

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    A few years ago, an AAAC member named Scott posted pictures of some of his SR jackets. I liked them so much that I saved them and this looks like the perfect opportunity to put them up. Scott is no longer on the member list for AAAC, so I couldn't ask his permission and I can't find the thread where he posted his pictures. I hope he doesn't mind!

    Richard Anderson bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    I think the one from Richard Anderson is quite nice looking but I dont care for the slanted pockets.
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ I remember that thread! The links to the images went dead a long time ago. I'm happy to see that someone had the foresight to save them. Ah, memories.
     
  10. jkennett

    jkennett Senior member

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    I think the one from Richard Anderson is quite nice looking but I dont care for the slanted pockets.
    I actually like the hacking pockets. They make perfect sense with that sport coat as they lend a bit of tradition to the look, even if he'd never wear it on horseback. The waist suppression on most of those Savile Row jackets are quite nice!
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...
     
  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

    Doesn't he go by the name RSS now?
     
  13. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Goddamnit.
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

    Scott is a gentleman. I miss his insights and infectious civility.

    - B
     
  15. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    Very interesting pictures. If I had to choose, I would go for the Dege cut, but I really like the cloth on the A & S. coat. Two regrets: why are the coats 2 button only? I prefer 3 buttons which would show less shirt/tie. And why no DB? But that is just a question of (my) taste.
    Thank you for the pictures.
    Frog in Suit
     

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