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Upcoming San Francisco Trunk Shows

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Feb 5, 2018.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    So, over the years, I've tried to get more custom clothiers and boutiques to visit San Francisco. The projects are purely out of a desire to see a more thriving community here of traveling tailors, shoemakers, and at times boutiques/ brands. I don't get anything out of these arrangements -- money, discounts, free products, or otherwise. But I like the opportunity of seeing people locally, whereas they would otherwise only visit New York City (if they visit the US at all).

    Thus, I thought I'd start a thread for upcoming San Francisco trunk shows. And, at times, the greater Bay Area. The ability to get people here hinges on whether people actually attend these events (and, frankly, ultimately order something). So I'm hoping to help spread the word around.

    I'll use this thread to promote upcoming trunk shows and events in the area, but I encourage anyone to contribute. My only request: if you have a relationship with the brand/ store/ or craftsperson, please state that upfront.

    Some events on the immediate horizon:

    Edward Sexton (Feb 11th and 12th)

    I think everyone is familiar with Edward Sexton. He was the technical genius behind Tommy Nutter, and today carries on that sort of dramatic look -- albeit in a more toned down form -- through his own tailoring house. A lot more structured than what we usually talk about on this forum, but I think it looks great. A bit Art Deco-ish. Fantastic looking double breasteds and one of the few tailoring houses that I think consistently executes a single-breasted peak lapel well.

    They have two lines, one being the main bespoke offering and another that's a sort of "trimmed down" bespoke service offered at half the price. The pattern drafting is done off blocks, the make is done in China. There's one fitting, instead of the usual three, but the final adjustments are done in-house. Full bespoke service, on the other hand, is your usual full bespoke with everything done in-house.

    Details of the event:
    • Dates: San Francisco on February 11th and 12th, then in Los Angeles from February 14th to 16th
    • Locations: The Scarlet Huntington in San Francisco; The W Hotel in Los Angeles
    • Contact: http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/

    Pomella Napoli (Feb 18th to 20th)

    Lino Pommella, former trouser cutter at Rubinacci, has left Rubi and started his own firm. His partner is Gianluca Migliarotti, the director behind O'Mast. As I understand it, Gianluca always travels with Lino, and serves as his translator.

    I've never bought anything from Pomella, but I've seen the work he did when he was at Rubinacci. I don't know if the tailors are the same, but the cut at least was really nice. Trim and Italian, but not as trim as Ambrosi's house cut (or, at least, what I got from Ambrosi). Obviously it's bespoke, so you can probably get whatever you want, but the general style is likely going to be trimmer than an SR firm. The technical skill behind the cuts I've seen were very good -- even though the pants were slim, they fell cleanly.

    Details of the event:

    Marol (March 6th and 7th)

    Northern Italian shirt factory that's now doing its own house line. Previously, they've only operated as a private label manufacturer. Again, I've never ordered anything from them, but the work looks nice. Mostly machine sewn shirts, but precisely executed and well done. They recently did a collaboration with Bruce Boyer, although the price of those shirts are very high.

    Mainline shirts start around 300 euros for MTO. Still expensive, but not unreasonable given what's on the market today. They also offer MTM and bespoke. The best things I've seen from them are the one-piece holiday collars on @Andy57. Frankly, they just look great. They stand up without a tie, have a nice roll without being a button down, and just generally look better than many of your standard spread collars, which collapse under a jacket's lapels.

    Details of the event:

    Nackymade (March 15th)

    Everyone here is probably familiar with Nackymade from their collaborations with The Armoury. Japanese eyewear manufacturer, with both MTO and fully custom options available. I was told bespoke starts at $600. If that includes lenses (I didn't ask), that actually seems like a pretty good deal.

    House style seems a bit quirky and fun, but I've seen them do more sedate styles. They offer frames in acetate, cherrywood, and titanium. I like the company's sense of design.

    Details of the event:
    • Dates: March 15th
    • Locations: Susan, the store, at 3685 Sacramento Street
    • Contact: I assume either Nackymade or Susan. (nackymade.com or 415-922-3685)
     

  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    One more:

    Steven Hitchcock (February 20th and 21st)

    Anderson & Sheppard expat and one of the few tailors left specializing in the drape cut. Cuts for @Butler and Bruce Boyer, among many others. Steven just recently added a west coast leg to his US tour (I think for the first time ever, if I remember correctly). Obviously it's bespoke, so you can get whatever you want, but from what I've seen, Hitchcock's work differs from Steed in that he's a bit more likely to put a wedge or dart in the front of the jacket, across the hip pockets, and use a side body to help kick out the skirt. Cut also looks a touch more modern, to my eye, whereas Steed feels a bit more like old school A&S.

    Steven will be in Los Angeles right before this, for those in Southern California.

    Details of the event:
     

  3. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

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    Dalcuore posted on IG that they're coming to SF. I emailed to ask about dates but haven't received a response.
     

  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Wow, that's great news. Let us know when you find out.
     

  5. Gus

    Gus Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks @dieworkwear for this thread and promoting tailors visits to the Bay Area.


    WW Chan is coming to SF March 2&3.
    San Francisco Hilton
    333 O'Farrell Street
    San Francisco, CA 94102
    Cell: (917) 717-9034 or Hotel: (415) 771-1400
     

  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Stoffa (March 2nd and 3rd)

    Made to measure casualwear, mostly focused on classic outerwear styles such as raincoats and bomber jackets. Their MTM line of trousers is also really good (I was impressed with how well a pair I bought fit). Some really nice materials here, such as peached, hopsack cotton and suede. They also have some terrific accessories. I think the scarves are especially well designed.

    Details of the event:
    • Dates: March 2nd and 3rd, from 10am to 7pm each day
    • Location: St. Regis Hotel at 125 3rd Street
    • Contact: https://stoffa.co/
     

  8. Gus

    Gus Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I've seen photos of the trousers and was very impressed. I might have to make an appointment if I am in town.
     

  9. dalevy

    dalevy Distinguished Member

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    A quick note on Stoffa. It seems they are cutting back on SF to twice a year. Not surprised I suppose, but it will obviously increase the hassle of getting your trouser fit perfected. I am still trying to nail my trouser fit after two pairs. I asked for alterations on my first pair and ordered a second pair at the same time at the last show last year. The second pair still needs some adjustments (seems like they overcompensated).

    Overall I really like the fit and would order again (I'm planning on it), and they have been very accomodating. The alterations were of the minor variety that I could take to any alterations tailor, but I wouldn't want to again and again for each new pair. Just want to note in case having them visit only twice a year is an issue, although it's not like SF has a ton of options.
     

  10. dalevy

    dalevy Distinguished Member

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    Also a query unrelated to trunk shows, but relevant to the San Francisco audience here. Has anyone tried the new "Made To": https://www.madetoclothe.me

    It was founded by one of the guys who used to be part of Magari. As far as I can tell, it's the same basic premise, fittings in SF by non-tailor, measurements and adjustments relayed to Naples. It does seem to have some upgrades like basted fittings, differing levels of handwork, and (I think) hand-cut, personalized patterns, etc. But I'm not quite sure how useful a basted fitting is to a non-tailor. I.e., if the basted fitting is way off (due to the tailor not doing the fitting), would the non-tailor know what to do? I guess it would be easier to modify than an MTM gone wrong, but I don't know if that makes me feel any more comfortable. General thoughts appreciated.
     

  11. comrade

    comrade Distinguished Member

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    I would steer clear of them,. I have had MTM screwed
    up to the point where I was given a full refund from a
    well-established retailer: SFA. And this was in ordering
    a pair standard Zegna slacks in a lower rise. It was a a trunk
    show and a Zegna rep took my measurements and
    examined the trousers that I had brought along as examples
    of how they fit (correctly!) Still they blew it. One would
    have to be crazy to work with a non professional tailor
    for "bespoke" from a start up without a location to
    receive customers and doesn't pay a real tailor to measure clients.

    BTW, do you know the price of Stofa field jackets? bomber jackets?
    Does one need an appointment for their trunk show?
    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018

  12. dalevy

    dalevy Distinguished Member

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    Yes, you need an appointment. You should e-mail them for the appointment and also for prices based on the model and material. They are typically pretty fast at responding.
     

  13. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Stylish Dinosaur

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    What's the best way to book an appointment with them? I might stop by myself + direct my buddy their way for his wedding tux.
     

  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Ordered a pair of pants at the Pommella trunk show. They had some really nice fabrics, including some vintage stuff. Also got to see some trousers they've made for other clients and Strasburgo in Japan.
     

  15. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

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    Unfortunately I was out of town during the Pommella visit. Did they say when they're like to be back?

    Still no reply from Dalcuore about their dates, even after a second email. Maybe it's getting caught in a spam filter.
     

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