Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[RogerC]

Well you confirmed my initial thoughts, all traveling tailors get it wrong. Sometimes I just want to scream at them.

FTFY

 

[dieworkwear]

I've used local and traveling tailors and have never noticed a difference, aside from longer lead times if the tailor isn't local.

 

[lordsuperb]

The first suit and most of the trousers were made while Steven was still visiting the Bay Area. But for the the two jackets I'm talking about I mostly went to him in London. I think to assert that "all traveling tailors get it wrong" is nonsense.

FTFY

Maybe I need to get out while my sanity is still intact. The mistakes drive me crazy.

 

[jonathanS]

The first suit he made for me is fine and all the trousers he's made are similarly fine. But the Escorial jacket had balance issues that I still can't unsee even though it's vastly better than it was. But the most recent jacket, a DB in a Holland and Sherry flannel, is frustrating. At first it was finished just basically too big, which was odd because it looked fine at the forward fitting. Then, after that was corrected, the back and especially the back of one sleeve is not at all satisfactory. So it needs to go back for more work. I'm sure it will be fine in the end, it's just taking longer than it should.

Well, atleast he’s willing to fix the problems. I had a tailor charge me to fix the problems! And that suit is still just “wearable” - the button stance is too high which cannot be fixed. Needless to say, I haven’t reordered haha.

 

[Winot]

Steven has made me 4 suits (a DB and then three SBs). The 3rd SB was completely different in style - different lapel shape and shoulder profile. Could have been made by someone else entirely. I quite like it, but it’s very odd.

 

[David Reeves]

Dear Gentlemen,

"The Negroni Tweed" by Fox Brothers: the FW 2019-20 fad?

No thank you, I'll pass.

Opinions?

Best,

Dimitris

View attachment 1294198

View attachment 1294199

View attachment 1294200

I did one of them for a client we went a bit 70s.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @David Reeves,

Certainly not of my taste, but you did a great job sir!

I sincerely hope that your client would enjoy it in health!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Thomson]

I like it. Doesn't look very tweedy to me. What‘s the hand of this fabric like?

Guess the advantage of these slightly more unusual patterns is that you can wear a tailored jacket without looking like a banker you have to wear tailored clothing in order to conform to conservative business dress dress codes.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Bartender,

One more negroni please!

 

[hpreston]

Dear @David Reeves,

Certainly not of my taste, but you did a great job sir!

I sincerely hope that your client would enjoy it in health!

Cheers,

Dimitris

This! This all day long.

 

[zalb916]

I’m looking at these two mid-grey whipcords in the H&S Dakota book for some pants.

9518506 is 13 ounces.

9518402 is 12 ounces.

Anybody have experience with or a recommendation for either?

 

[bdavro23]

I’m looking at these two mid-grey whipcords in the H&S Dakota book for some pants.

9518506 is 13 ounces.

View attachment 1297461

9518402 is 12 ounces.

View attachment 1297462

Anybody have experience with or a recommendation for either?

I have one of these and its great as a trouser. I'm not sure I could tell the difference of an ounce of weight, so pick the one you like best visually/ texturally.

 

[dieworkwear]

Would do the first one if you want a versatile pair of trousers. Second is a little more marled and would look nice with tweeds.

 

[birdlives80]

I just ordered a pair in the first one, 9518506, perfect mid gray, second was too light in color.

 

[The Chai]

I second all the previous comments. I have the first one as a pair of odd trousers. Gets a lot of wear except in the dead of summer which is where Perth is at rn