Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

They arent like for like, but this looks the closest to my eye:

504.801/4 - Vitale Barberis Canonico

vitalebarberiscanonico.com

awesome, thanks!

 

[4r36]

I dont have the book in front of me, but I thought 0760 was the bright navy, 0761 was navy, and 0762 was midnight, though I could be mistaken. In any case, 0761 is a classic navy and should be a staple addition to any wardrobe. As has been mentioned, 0760 is not really bright, and the entire Classics II book is on the reserved side.

On that subject, Classics II is one of my favorite books around. Beautiful cloth in 12-13 ounces with good body and matte finishes. The suits I've made in this cloth have been very robust and I expect them to wear well for many years. QZ is a very different cloth, and while I like it and appreciate the quality, they are not like for like replacements. It is a bit shinier, a bit brighter, a bit lighter and a little more smooth. Very nice cloths, but different.

I would suggest handling both if you are able, but also deciding what properties you are looking for with your commision. Definitely post the results either way! Who is making it for you?

Thank you, too, dear! Really appreciated your comparison between the Classic II and the QZ.

At the present moment, the way those of hfwltd name the different fabrics is a bit unusual. They call the 0760 'lighter navy', the 0761 'bright navy', and the 0762 'dark navy'. In fact, as you say, the 0761 is a classic navy.

Unfortunately, I handled only the Classic II fabrics and not the QZ ones. Under your advice, I'll go for the former; hopefully, there will be time for trying the latter.

My tailor is Raffaele Iorio in Naples! A tailor "vecchia scuola" (old school). You can check the thread on him by p_k_l if you're interested in seeing some of his works. Thanks again!

 

[zr3rs]

Does anyone have any specific mid-grey flannel recommendations for trousers to go with a navy blazer? So far I like this Drapers (8934L) and this Merchant Fox CBT5 (A1285/22) but am not trying to break the bank on pants...any mid-price point recommendations?

If you go with Fox, take the 400g herringbone. It drapes better and has a slightly more elegant texture. It is my favorite trouser flannel.

 

[bdavro23]

I what will likely be the most disappointing post of the day for this thread, I have some cloth related news, and it is unrelated to Foo:

I am in the process of funding 4 liabilities at the moment, all spring/ summer-ish jackets. A grey Dormeuil hopsack wool/ silk, a blue/teal Harrisons, wool/ silk/ linen, a mid-bluish textured Loro Piana wool/ silk/ linen, and a brown with a sort of purplish cast check from Loro Piana in a wool/ silk/ linen blend.

To make matters even more disappointing, I dont have any pictures to share at the moment. So, you're welcome...




I will, however, share pictures of the finished products, which I should have mid-July I think.

I am told I should have the above jackets in hand on Monday. As a matter of logistics, am I allowed to post them here since they are now funded? This feels like I might be over complicating things...

 

[sensuki]

I was wondering if anyone could identify the following cloth?

 

[The Chai]

Trying to toss a coin before my next commission...deciding between a;

A) Holland and Sherry cream/oatmeal dupioni (I have attached a picture below. It’s the one to the right) silk sport coat/odd dinner jacket. One button with a cran necker/Parisian lapel and flapped pockets (which can be tucked in if I want the dinner jacket look, and I feel the design is versatile enough I could wear it with jeans or odd trousers...); or

B) Dormeuil Amadeus 365 charcoal herringbone with navy undertone suit in the same configuration as above but as a full suit with grey mother of Pearl buttons

 

[RogerC]

I'm spending a few days in Bologna for work next week, would anyone have a good recommendation for fabric stores?

 

[Bromley]

Trying to toss a coin before my next commission...deciding between a;

A) Holland and Sherry cream/oatmeal dupioni (I have attached a picture below. It’s the one to the right) silk sport coat/odd dinner jacket. One button with a cran necker/Parisian lapel and flapped pockets (which can be tucked in if I want the dinner jacket look, and I feel the design is versatile enough I could wear it with jeans or odd trousers...); or

B) Dormeuil Amadeus 365 charcoal herringbone with navy undertone suit in the same configuration as above but as a full suit with grey mother of Pearl buttons

Hey! I've got got those H&S silk swatches in front of me right now. Cool, dry feel. The darker brown color looks great as well.

 

[jdp234]

Anyone know what fabric the drakes green seersucker is made of? (Might well be custom run of course.) Like the look but not the price tag... thinking of the forthcoming Spier MTO or something

 

[aristoi bcn]

I'm spending a few days in Bologna for work next week, would anyone have a good recommendation for fabric stores?

DePaz.

 

[The Chai]

Hey! I've got got those H&S silk swatches in front of me right now. Cool, dry feel. The darker brown color looks great as well.

Yeah I am considering the dark brown as well...but if I think I want cream first if anything. Would make for an interesting dinner jacket

 

[dan'l]

I'm spending a few days in Bologna for work next week, would anyone have a good recommendation for fabric stores?

DePaz.

I visited Bologna a couple years back and went to several fabric stores. DePaz is a nice shop overall, with an eclectic inventory of menswear and accessories. But the owner specializes in English cloth (plus accessories) and had nothing from the Italian mills, which is personally what I am after when I visit Italy.

 

[Concordia]

Re: Atlantis Madras—
I got the following today, looks like there are OTR options (which I have used before), but bleeding will take more work.

“The bleeding madras will be made to order, so ideally the minimums required by the weaving team, is about 1000 yards, but if you are agreeable to increasing the price per yard, then the minimum per pattern/colorway can be reduced by them.

“The regular Indian madras cotton plaids of RC-series can be purchased almost without minimums, since we stock thousands of yards of these in hand.”

Not sure about patchwork but that might be easier to commission as a group order.

The regular RC series is pretty classic, preppy stuff. It’s not notably amazing quality, though. I send it to Ascot Chang, but would never pay more for CMT.

And the stuff offered by the scam guy seems to be an order through this house. Might as well do a SF internal group order.

 

[dieworkwear]

Re: Atlantis Madras—
I got the following today, looks like there are OTR options (which I have used before), but bleeding will take more work.

“The bleeding madras will be made to order, so ideally the minimums required by the weaving team, is about 1000 yards, but if you are agreeable to increasing the price per yard, then the minimum per pattern/colorway can be reduced by them.

“The regular Indian madras cotton plaids of RC-series can be purchased almost without minimums, since we stock thousands of yards of these in hand.”

Not sure about patchwork but that might be easier to commission as a group order.

The regular RC series is pretty classic, preppy stuff. It’s not notably amazing quality, though. I send it to Ascot Chang, but would never pay more for CMT.

And the stuff offered by the scam guy seems to be an order through this house. Might as well do a SF internal group order.

Those Atlantis fabrics are fine for what they are, but over the years, I've been kind of let down by how they feel. The real challenge, I think, is getting an Indian madras pattern, perhaps even bleeding, using yarns that are as high quality as what you find in European mills. A lot of that Indian stuff feels paper-y.

 

[Concordia]

Yeah— after 2 or 3 summers it feels kind of weak. I have asked about the ultra-fine grade— perhaps that will hold up better. And I am guessing that the patchwork will be fine for tailored stuff that isn’t washed so frequently.