Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dan'l]

Currently I have two wool overcoats and both are more than 600 grams (620g & 650g). I also have one in 600g cashmere. I haven't had a chance to wear it yet, but imagine it will be toasty.

I also have one made of 500g tweed, but personally consider that one for fall-use only.

Of course you need to consider what you are wearing underneath. If you are wearing a suit or SC in a heavy cloth, that makes a big difference. Also, DB > SB for warmth, especially when it's windy.

 

[etostano]

Big issue to consider is how breathable the cloth is - I had a greatcoat made from moon tweed and had to bring it back to add a light flannel lining - even the slightest breeze went straight through it before.

 

[seferphier]

holy molloy! that is amazing! thanks for the pictures

I haven't been on or posted on SF in ages. I had a great experience this week visiting a mill in Ireland and thought it worth sharing with you guys. Lots of photos naturally.

Okay, so I took a thinly veiled #menswear holiday to Ireland, driving around Co. Donegal, the region best known for their rough, colour flecked tweeds. Naturally I scheduled a meeting with Molloy & Sons. I'm sure a few SF members have commissions made up with their cloth. It had always intrigued me.

Scenery, for your viewing pleasure:






After much frustration with the Sat Nav on a blustery Monday lunchtime, I finally found my destination: a rather nondescript outhouse, attached to a detached rural country house that could have passed for a farm.

Upon entering I was met by Kieran who kindly showed me around and explained exactly how they make their Donegal tweed. It's a very small operation with Kieran and his father, Shaun along with some relatives. I think he said a maximum of 5 in total making up the whole operation.

One of the interesting things Kieran told me was that "Donegal Tweed" is not a protected term, as Harris Tweed is. So if you buy, for instance, W.Bill Donegal, its not made in Donegal. As I understand its actually woven for them in Tipperary in Southern Ireland, but you get the idea. You could have a Donegal cloth woven in Huddersfield for instance. Or Italy. Interestingly, Molloy do not make for any other mills/merchants.

They have specialised with their stock supported cloth in heavier weights, 13-15oz. They are looking to develop that range to include lighter weights. I'm sure that will be popular with those who use Neapolitan tailors. As well as lighter weights, they will look to produce designs other than plain and herringbone weaves. I saw some lovely Prince of Wales bolts while I was there.

I was there of course as an enthusiast, but also to commission some cloth that I could make into ties. I selected many colours that I liked from the strike off blanket (pictured below). We'll narrow this down in the next few weeks and hopefully have some nice, lightly lined ties with handrolled tips as a result. We'll go with a navy, a green, a brown and a copper/orange. I'll choose the exact fabrics once the swatches arrive.

Anyhow, enough talking, here are the photos I took.

 

[mactire]

One of the interesting things Kieran told me was that "Donegal Tweed" is not a protected term, as Harris Tweed is. So if you buy, for instance, W.Bill Donegal, its not made in Donegal. As I understand its actually woven for them in Tipperary in Southern Ireland, but you get the idea. You could have a Donegal cloth woven in Huddersfield for instance. Or Italy. Interestingly, Molloy do not make for any other mills/merchants.

That's quite right that Donegal Tweed is not a legally protected term. In fairness to W. Bill though they used to have their handwoven Donegals made through Magee, as they still have a network of pieceworkers making on wooden handlooms at home.

If they're getting powerloom stuff in Tipperary it has to be from Hanlys of Nenagh http://www.johnhanly.com

Did you visit Magee in Donegal town, or Eddie Doherty in Ardara? Or other spots at all?

Don't suppose you could put up pics of the tie cloths at all? Or if you'd sell pieces?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @edmorel,

Do you have any sport coat FW fabrics forthcoming (especially Zegna ones), so that we could consider to increase the pile of our unfunded liabilities?

Best,

Dimitris

 

[heldentenor]

Dear @edmorel,

Do you have any sport coat FW fabrics forthcoming (especially Zegna ones), so that we could consider to increase the pile of our unfunded liabilities?

Best,

Dimitris

Uncanny timing--you might want to check B&S.

 

[edmorel]

Uncanny timing--you might want to check B&S.

Yep, had to do it in two parts due to picture limitations. Also, I still have some of the Lovat Brisa and a gorgeous brown high twist in my previous threads.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thank you gentlemen for your response.

I will certainly check both parts, the previous threads are already known.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[emptym]

Does anyone recognize the fabric of this sport coat?

Not sure what it's made of or how thick, but I think it's a good pattern for a summer sport coat.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

I have received more than 75 shirting fabrics from the best maker after Carlo Riva woven exclusively for the Neapolitans,

Are some qualities made slowing as possible the looms to get the Riva effect that is got as slow as doing just 1 meter per hour, while Thomas Mason or other would do a full 60 meters piece. No plastic bag feeling due to chemical finishing, as natural as possible.

Got 240/2 and even 300/3. Retail for those was circa 90-100 euros a meter, now in sale while meters last. One 300 is the ultimate wedding shirt, satin stripes on white on white.

Also the best linen 110/2 cotton 170/2 blend, the famous Connery loved in Asian countries. All super light fabrics.

I grabbed this for myself and some to stock for shirt clients.

PM me since are a lot more to show.

Italian flavour at it´s max!!!

 

[aristoi bcn]

Does anyone recognize the fabric of this sport coat?
View attachment 866483

Not sure what it's made of or how thick, but I think it's a good pattern for a summer sport coat.

Not the same but very similar:

Solbiati linen.

 

[lordsuperb]

Sorry, weird question to address my unfunded peeps but what are your thoughts on breast pockets? Should they be slightly covered or away from the lapel?

 

[WillingToLearn]

Slightly covered by the lapel for sure.

 

[The Chai]

IMO uncovered looks weird if you are trying to do the tv fold...

 

[The Chai]

mine with a covered pocket