Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]



Given the prominence of those horizontal blue bars, I would say a jacket in this cloth could suit a slim man. Portly gents might be better off with something else.

What if you were a portly man wearing this while laying sideways?

 

[Coxsackie]

What if you were a portly man wearing this while laying sideways?

Then I'd be hoping you're not in the vicinity.

 

[turkoftheplains]



Getting the right length of cloth for a topcoat is tricky unless you know all the variables. It's different than ordering suit or jacket lengths.
Total length of the coat, girth measurements and styling details all contribute.  Sometimes need to order different lengths of cloth for the same client to accommodate styling details.

Heavy napped cloth or large pattern repeats require more cloth to cut all the pieces in one direction. Patch pockets, belts, cuffs, inverted pleats, kick pleats, raglan sleeves, yokes, etc.,  all require specific cloth requirements. Double breasted may need more cloth than a single breasted.
If you have a trim build you can fit more pieces across the cloth width. If you are stocky or heavy you need more cloth length because you lose across the width.

Consult the maker, he would know best. Better to have extra cloth to work with.

Thanks for the advice, really appreciate the wisdom of a pro, especially one of your calibre. I'm not completely decided on the details yet (and I'd be delighted for inspiration if anyone has particularly nice tweed DB overcoat makeups.) I'll inquire with the maker, and err on the side of more.

 

[Magnanimist]

This gunclub is the first piece I purchased after joining the LL cloth club a few years ago. One of my go-to jackets in colder months. Comfortable as all get out. The blue windowpane balances well IMO. Get nothing but positive comments from people on it.

 

[sugarbutch]



I just find those horizontal blue bars too prominent.

This

 

[Coxsackie]

This gunclub is the first piece I purchased after joining the LL cloth club a few years ago. One of my go-to jackets in colder months. Comfortable as all get out. The blue windowpane balances well IMO. Get nothing but positive comments from people on it.

I'm prepared to accept this field report as the final word on the subject.

 

[ballmouse]

I'm surprised that it's a LL design. Was the original purpose to make it an overcoat fabric?

 

[lordsuperb]



I'm surprised that it's a LL design. Was the original purpose to make it an overcoat fabric?

No, it was meant for city wearing. Something soft to wear at the bar for girls to touch. Girls like to touch nice jackets.

 

[ericgereghty]

Off LL topic, but a big fat +1 for Minnis Bamboo cloth. Just got a pair of navy bamboo braces, and boy would I love an SC in a same fabric. Probably wouldn't be the ultimate for resiliency, but it is has some exquisite surface texture

 

[DavidLane]

Can anyone ID this shirting from Drake's? The image is from their Instagram or tumblr account.

Thanks in advance.

DL-

 

[whippet]

Guys, could you suggest a tailor in London aside from savile row houses. Maybe some young independent who previously worked in Savile Row but then decided to open his own shop. Someone who makes fully bespoke pieces and doesn't cut corners

Thanks

 

[edmorel]



I'm surprised that it's a LL design. Was the original purpose to make it an overcoat fabric?

That would be a very bold pattern in such a large design as an overcoat. I don't think Hamish Bowles could pull that off. Maybe Andre Leon Talley or Flusser in his nutty professor stage.

 

[suffolk]

Just joined - but a long time lurker around here.

In reply to Whippet looking for a Row-esque tailor:

I suggest you call Joshua Byrne. He set up on his own a few years ago, having trained at A&S and Poole. He's not less expensive than others, doesn't need to be - also he's not terribly interested in social media. But his cutting and the experience is fantastic.

 

[whippet]



Just joined - but a long time lurker around here.

In reply to Whippet looking for a Row-esque tailor:

I suggest you call Joshua Byrne. He set up on his own a few years ago, having trained at A&S and Poole. He's not less expensive than others, doesn't need to be - also he's not terribly interested in social media. But his cutting and the experience is fantastic.

Thanks Suffolk, I'll investigate. I struggle to understand savile row prices. It's a matter of principle and not affordability.

 

[terrorsquad]

Out of curiosity,how many unfunded liabilities do members here currently have right now?I have around 30 pieces (mostly vintage stuff) and i add at least 1 every quarter of the year.