Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

If you're getting Harrisons in the US, they will only sell through their agent. That said, your tailor might have his own supplier.

I'm about to pull the same sort of trigger for a midnight DB coat. Minnis has a nice herringbone that is rather worsted-looking, but has made up very nicely. Harrisons has one that is more woolly at 22oz, and Fox has one almost the same color but a little less densely-packed at 19/20oz. Dugdale has a very nice one that is much heavier at 25oz. W Bill has a herringbone that has little bits of royal blue sprinkled in. Just enough that it will have a blue personality and never quite look black. Without going to camel hair or cashmere, those were the main options that came up.

Out of curiosity, would the difference between 25 ounces and 22 be THAT noticeable?

 

[MrTRC]

Out of curiosity, would the difference between 25 ounces and 22 be THAT noticeable?

That's what i said. She thought otherwise. It is all about the girth man.

 

[fridayfrenzy]

I am choosing a dark grey/charcoal fabric for my first suit and believe I have narrowed it down. I have looked at the physical swatches over and over in different lights and basically can't make my decision. Any advice on which way to go would be helpful. I believe they are both sharkskin.


Harrison's Oyster 75763


or

Harrison's Oyster 75764


(this appears almost black and not sure if that is how dark of charcoal I should go)

 

[lordsuperb]



I am choosing a dark grey/charcoal fabric for my first suit and believe I have narrowed it down. I have looked at the physical swatches over and over in different lights and basically can't make my decision. Any advice on which way to go would be helpful. I believe they are both sharkskin. Harrison's Oyster 75763 or Harrison's Oyster 75764 (this appears almost black and not sure if that is how dark of charcoal I should go)

These are too dark I prefer medium gray over a charcoal colored suit. I feel it can be dressed up or down while the charcoal is for formal occasions.

 

[Concordia]

Medium offers a chance for more texture and variety of color. On the other hand, there are certain cities where anything but the darkest grey will make people think you're on vacation. Figure out where and why you plan to wear the thing; solve that problem first.

 

[borbor]

I am choosing a dark grey/charcoal fabric for my first suit and believe I have narrowed it down. I have looked at the physical swatches over and over in different lights and basically can't make my decision. Any advice on which way to go would be helpful. I believe they are both sharkskin.


Harrison's Oyster 75763


or

Harrison's Oyster 75764


(this appears almost black and not sure if that is how dark of charcoal I should go)

not sharkskin; but give 75715 a look. It's lighter than either of the ones you have; but not so light that it looks almost black.

if you're dead set on charcoal; 63 would probably be as dark as one should go. I probably think 62 might get slightly more mileage tbh.

 

[fridayfrenzy]

not sharkskin; but give 75715 a look. It's lighter than either of the ones you have; but not so light that it looks almost black.

if you're dead set on charcoal; 63 would probably be as dark as one should go. I probably think 62 might get slightly more mileage tbh.

I am assuming you mean 75713. I have that swatch as well and quite like it.

I also have the 62 swatch so I will take a look again between 75713, 75762 and 75763.

I would be wearing this to work functions and networking events only. I would like something that is dark grey but does not get mistaken for black. The rub for me is I don't know at what darkness of grey that line is drawn and it is difficult to know from a 4 inch swatch.

 

[Mr. Pink]



I am assuming you mean 75713.  I have that swatch as well and quite like it. 

I also have the 62 swatch so I will take a look again between 75713, 75762 and 75763.

I would be wearing this to work functions and networking events only.  I would like something that is dark grey but does not get mistaken for black.  The rub for me is I don't know at what darkness of grey that line is drawn and it is difficult to know from a 4 inch swatch.

Skip charcoal and get a medium or even dark grey. Charcoal is much harder to wear.

 

[borbor]

I am assuming you mean 75713. I have that swatch as well and quite like it.

I also have the 62 swatch so I will take a look again between 75713, 75762 and 75763.

I would be wearing this to work functions and networking events only. I would like something that is dark grey but does not get mistaken for black. The rub for me is I don't know at what darkness of grey that line is drawn and it is difficult to know from a 4 inch swatch.

no; i meant it.

but it looks like you're set on sharkskin because that's what 713 is.

if it's for work, 13 and 63 I think are too dark (personal aesthetics speaking)

 

[bdavro23]

Another vote for Mid Grey. Charcoal would be the 4th/5th ish suit I would add to a rotation.

 

[sdtgt]

Reposting in this thread on the advice of @Murlsquirl : I'm having my first tuxedo made, and after some research it appeared that barathea is the cloth traditionally used. I ordered a full suit length sight unseen (I'm on a tight schedule), along with some Super 120s cloth for some other suits. The link to the barathea I ordered is http://www.yorkshirefabric.com/?product=1c3-01-2 . In comparison to the supers the barathea feels heavy and coarse. It doesn't have the lustre and softness of the supers. It reminds me of the cheap suits I had tailored in middle and high school, almost like sackcloth. Is this normal and a good thing?

 

[poorsod]

My tux is a black barathea from Scabal. It was scratchy in the beginning and softened with wear. I don't know the cloth you bought.

A popular alternative (on SF) is Smiths wool/mohair blends. I have midnight blue tails in Smiths 8810 and it feels lighter than my tux.

Here is a picture of foos tux in 8810.

 

[ericgereghty]

On a slightly related note, can anybody speak to Yorkshire Fabrics offerings? Some look pretty solid, at a nice price.

 

[bdavro23]

Reposting in this thread on the advice of @Murlsquirl : I'm having my first tuxedo made, and after some research it appeared that barathea is the cloth traditionally used. I ordered a full suit length sight unseen (I'm on a tight schedule), along with some Super 120s cloth for some other suits. The link to the barathea I ordered is http://www.yorkshirefabric.com/?product=1c3-01-2 . In comparison to the supers the barathea feels heavy and coarse. It doesn't have the lustre and softness of the supers. It reminds me of the cheap suits I had tailored in middle and high school, almost like sackcloth. Is this normal and a good thing?

I have a midnight shawl lapel dinner suit in Mohair that is pretty coarse compared to a worsted, but looks superb

 

[fridayfrenzy]

Quote:

no; i meant it.

but it looks like you're set on sharkskin because that's what 713 is.

if it's for work, 13 and 63 I think are too dark (personal aesthetics speaking)

Is 15 a navy nailhead?