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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    @Alan BeeAm I allowed to say neither? I think your loquaciousness is something rarely seen here (not necessarily a bad thing). I feel that this could quickly devolve like that scene in Goodfellas*. Nevertheless...

    I don't know what your relationship with your tailor is, but I've found mine to be quite helpful and honest in developing my sense of style as it relates to the application (business wear) and helping me to branch out beyond my safety net. They are usually a good place to start when embarking on this endeavor.

    Best of luck in your quest. I still stand by my Dormeuil Royal 12 recommendation.

    *
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
  2. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

    Messages:
    137
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    Sep 26, 2007
    

    Hi Firenze-Rob,

    Thank you for your good counsel. If I'm honest, my tailor is a provincial tailor in Naples who hardly speaks any english and wouldn't know what H. Lesser of Harrisons stands for even if his life depended on it. I've traditionally brought my own fabric (CMT) to him and have had stuff made in all the contemporary cloth (H&S, Scabal, Dormeuil etc). But for this project, I want to try a true English cloth which heretofore I knew nothing about.

    So please bear with me if I come across as loquacious, even unbearable. Like may who've gone down this bespoke path, I've incurred my fair share of injurious mistakes and only seeking to minimize them and perhaps, learn from the missteps of others.

    Loquacious .... hmmm, I've never been called that but then again theres always a first time ;)

    Buono Signor ..

    Alan Bee
     
  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    People advising @Alan Bee 13oz suitings for use in Dubai are out of touch with reality. Way too hot.
    The situation is comparable to here in Jakarta (though even hotter) and I can't imagine having to wear anything heavier than 9oz. Yes the AC feels cold because of the contrast with outside, but it's still around 23C or so.
     
    3 people like this.
  4. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Be careful with the dry English cloths. That stuff is unforgiving if there's even a bit of heat or humidity in the air, and it's hard to cool off once you've returned to the cool zone. Start with Harrison's Premier Cru (Birdseye) and work your way down.
     
  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Also, I'm working in Manhatten Beach, CA this week. Any recommendations on places to eat and drink?
     
  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    The Strand House (great food, better view, even better looking waitresses), Love & Salt, and Fonz's (hole in the wall looking place, but really good). There's also a few pretty decent steakhouses (at least as decent as a steakhouse can be I suppose) The Arthur J and S+W.

    Enjoy MB. Probably my favorite city in SoCal.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Gracias!
     
  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Funny. My in-laws are in Manhattan Beach, and I don't think of it a place to go eat beyond mundane, everyday sorts of places. I'll have to check out those spots.
     
  9. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Admittedly, I don't have terribly high standards when it comes to food (except steak), so your good may differ from mine if you're a foodie.

    I do love Strand House though. Definitely a killer spot for a date night [​IMG]
     
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Visit Mike at his new Epaulet showroom....I'm sure he'll know some good options too.
     
  11. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Still mulling this over ..

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
    7 people like this.
  12. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Hong Kong
    We've been having a bit of a (relatively) cold spell here in HK. I wore H&S Victory flannel today, and did building car building and it was too hot. 18C, I guess 90% humidity is the killer.
     
  13. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Humidity changes everything. On one side of the tipping point, it makes you hot. On the other, it chills you to the bone. 70 and humid will get me into summer suits (or, at least, linen shirts).
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    It's been good weather for heavy linens lately in HK. Flannel + humidity = cardiac arrest :D
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  15. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Alan Bee

    Unless you run cold...indoors with 65 degree A/C, shy away from the 16oz suit

    A less expensive alternative would be to try some trousers in the 16oz range such as cavalry twill or woolen flannel. My legs run cold so I tolerate heavier trousers better than heavier jackets and suitings.

    Some members who posted recently melt in 9/10oz cloths, even when the weater outside is in the low 50s. So gauge your purchases on whether you run hot ot cold

    If you really desire a tweed, then try a jacket experiment at 14-15oz. I have found Scottish tweeds to be more porous than flannel, even though thicker, yet less insulating. If you use Neopolitan tailors, some are known for making jackets with less internal structuring and lining to better help with heat regulation

    Good luck with your experiments and post pictures of your results.

    Start with the heavier trouser to gauge your heat tolerance and to see if they truly drape-hang better for you

    On a different note, i too recommend Dormeuil Royal 12. I have 2 three piece suits made out of it and love wearing them during the warmer days of the year
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2017
    3 people like this.
  16. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I wouldn't hate a Dugdale ETC for workhorse at air con temperatures if you want something that drapes well and isn't too too warm.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior member

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    Michael, thank you for your response. Indeed, I use a Neapolitan tailor and his coats are feather light (light canvass, no shoulder padding and very often unlined)

    I will look at Dormeuil Royal 12 (if I can find it) as you and Rob_Firenze have recommended.

    Thanks also @chobochobo, @Isolation @kolecho @concordia for your advice ....

    Alan Bee
     
  18. ATWright

    ATWright Member

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    Feb 9, 2017
    As someone who has recently accrued a few too many liabilities, how would members recommend storing cloth? Some of them are going to be stored for a few years, as I will wait till I'm fully grown to make up the rare ones. In cloth vaults, they are just stacked on shelves, but I assume the room has special considerations, e.g. temperature and light? Thanks for the recommendation.
     
  19. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Jun 1, 2012
    If you are going to store them a couple of years there's no problem with temperature light or humidity etc. just keep them in normal room conditions. The only issue i would say (and is an important issue), is with moths, those small insects eating cloths. So don't forget to put some cedar or lavendar perfumed wood, sheet etc.
     
  20. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    you can bag in washed muslin. cedar chest is not a bad idea. if you fold yardage take out and refold every 6 months.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017

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