Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

My issue is I don’t wear my gray flannel suit. But maybe that’s bc I am not thrilled with how it came out.

What's wrong with the suit?

 

[jonathanS]

What's wrong with the suit?

Button stance too high, & trousers around the quads are really tight.

 

[JHWilliams]

Interesting, I was thinking, if I did a drape cut, I’d use Mahon. But Hitchcock & steed are great.

Mahon’s suits look boring and somewhat sloppy to me. Not enough drape and shoulders that have zero character. Just my two cents.

 

[JHWilliams]

Button stance too high, & trousers around the quads are really tight.

This is exactly why I have embraced the Drape cut. I’m done paying bespoke prices for tight clothing

 

[kid1002]

Will try!

Btw, this is Dugdale 4220 on top of Dakota 953406:
View attachment 1661618

Looks like 953406 is no longer in the Dakota bunch after a bunch update? Or does anyone know what the new code is for this colour?

 

[kylepw]

Steven’s suits are the most comfortable I have ever worn.

@JHWilliams Curious if you have experience with Steed and how they compare to Steven?

 

[kylepw]

My issue is I don’t wear my gray flannel suit. But maybe that’s bc I am not thrilled with how it came out.

@jonathanS Was that a Steven commission?

 

[JHWilliams]

@JHWilliams Curious if you have experience with Steed and how they compare to Steven?

i have zero experience with Steed. However, I have seen their work and it appears to be quite good. They aren’t afraid of drape. I must say, however, that I much prefer Steven Hitchcock’s cut. I have found the tailor for me. No need to look any further.

 

[JHWilliams]

@JHWilliams Curious if you have experience with Steed and how they compare to Steven?

I must admit, I was very tempted to try Anderson & Sheppard. Given their history and classic drape cut. However, after watching Kirby Allison’s video on A &S, it re-affirmed the fact that the house cut has greatly changed. Most of the cutters were wearing suits with very controlled drape and tight wrap arounds. It ain’t what it used to be. Not to mention the fact that they are more expensive due to their Savile Row overhead expenses.

 

[Sreezy36]

I prefer Steven Hitchcock’s coats slightly over Steed’s. Mainly because of cleaner drape and shape of his coats. However, because of availability and excellent service, I’ll be using Steed for the first time next month when they make their summer tour in the states. I eventually plan to use Steven as well.

In reference to their respective house styles. From my understanding they both cut modern interpretations of the Anderson and Shepherd soft drape coat. Steven prefers to cut a high clean drape(almost invisible) with shape in the waist and a longer skirt. Steed is more of a classic drape coat. Drapey chest with shape in the waist and a moderate or longer skirt.

 

[kylepw]

I must admit, I was very tempted to try Anderson & Sheppard. Given their history and classic drape cut. However, after watching Kirby Allison’s video on A &S, it re-affirmed the fact that the house cut has greatly changed. Most of the cutters were wearing suits with very controlled drape and tight wrap arounds. It ain’t what it used to be. Not to mention the fact that they are more expensive due to their Savile Row overhead expenses.

Same. Wouldn't do A&S now even if I was funded by a VC. Fitting scheduled for first bespoke commission with Steed in June. Looking forward to it.

 

[JHWilliams]

I prefer Steven Hitchcock’s coats slightly over Steed’s. Mainly because of cleaner drape and shape of his coats. However, because of availability and excellent service, I’ll be using Steed for the first time next month when they make their summer tour in the states. I eventually plan to use Steven as well.

In reference to their respective house styles. From my understanding they both cut modern interpretations of the Anderson and Shepherd soft drape coat. Steven prefers to cut a high clean drape(almost invisible) with shape in the waist and a longer skirt. Steed is more of a classic drape coat. Drapey chest with shape in the waist and a moderate or longer skirt.

Steven also cuts the old Scholte way. Here is a photo of my tweed jacket

 

[Sreezy36]

Steven also cuts the old Scholte way. Here is a photo of my tweed jacket

tbh, I prefer not to use Steven for a classic Scholte drape coat. I would rather use Steed or Tom Mahon. My reason for using Steven would be specifically for the high and clean drape. It is very unique and I don’t see any other tailor making that type of coat. All the practical benefits of drape with a much cleaner and refined look.

However, I do love the classic drape cut. I plan on using this example as a basis for my coat commissions with Steed. FYI I love one button coats.

 

[kylepw]

Steven also cuts the old Scholte way. Here is a photo of my tweed jacket

Very nice. I've seen some Steven jackets with less drape than that. Did you explicitly say "do it the Scholte way" or is that house?

 

[JHWilliams]

Very nice. I've seen some Steven jackets with less drape than that. Did you explicitly say "do it the Scholte way" or is that house?

yes, I specifically asked for full Hitchcock drape the way his father used to cut. He didn’t disappoint