Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Marshak]

Funny, my plan is a 6x1 DB with light horn buttons – so pretty close!

Yeah. You need contrasting buttons to break the formal side of the fabric. In midnight it would certainly work.

 

[dieworkwear]

For a navy winter sport coat, why not tweed or a heavy serge?

 

[rjkabk]

For a navy winter sport coat, why not tweed or a heavy serge?

A heavy serge I could see. Tweed would definitely bring down the formality, no?

 

[rjkabk]

On another note, what about a navy camel hair? I have never seen camel hair in navy myself by I have a Charcoal camel hair sport coat and I do like it...

 

[FlowableFill]

Anyone know where to look at Marling and Evans cloth online? Their website redirects to some shady looking site.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

I'd like to know as well. They use to have an easily navigable website.

 

[konstantis]

Anyone know where to look at Marling and Evans cloth online? Their website redirects to some shady looking site.

Contact them direct by email or via their social media page.

 

[dieworkwear]

A heavy serge I could see. Tweed would definitely bring down the formality, no?

Yes, a tweed would be more rustic and thus casual. I just think that someone is going to have unnecessary problems if they get a blue flannel sport coat.

 

[Marshak]

On another note, what about a navy camel hair? I have never seen camel hair in navy myself by I have a Charcoal camel hair sport coat and I do like it...

It's an very interesting option I'm thinking to (in navy). Piacenza does some great jacketings in this material but it's impossible to get swatches from them...

 

[Sreezy36]

Yes, a tweed would be more rustic and thus casual. I just think that someone is going to have unnecessary problems if they get a blue flannel sport coat.

Navy worsted flannel and heavy navy serge are almost identical in terms of formality when it comes to a blazer imo. Serge less than 400g with smooth finish(not milled) looks pretty much identical to a regular suiting twill and is usually a preferred choice for a serge blazer.

However, a true navy or blue sports coat would require more texture and visual interests. But if the plan is a blazer, I can’t see why worsted flannel and even some woollen flannels would be an issue.

 

[dieworkwear]

However, a true navy or blue sports coat would require more texture and visual interests. But if the plan is a blazer, I can’t see why worsted flannel and even some woollen flannels would be an issue.

Personally think it will just look weird.

 

[konstantis]

May i ask the members opinion abouth the attached linen fabrics ? I am planning to wear them with jeans ,chinos and maybe linen pants during spiring and early autumn. Thanks in advance.

 

[dieworkwear]

Personally not into those. I don't know why, but a lot of patterned linens look bad to me. The lines are too vivid and sharp, and the designs/ color combos don't look classic to me.

Maison Hellard has some surprisingly nice patterned linens that almost look like soft woolens. IMO, they get the colors and lines right. For example

Chant des pins

Chant des pins is a personal favourite, a memory of the Landes pine forests. This Glen check is made of a brown melange for added texture and dark green deco.

maisonhellard.com

Chemin de plage

Chemin de plage is the transposition of a timeless design that sits between the country and the seaside. As often, the simpler the better.

maisonhellard.com

 

[bjhofkin]

For a navy winter sport coat, why not tweed or a heavy serge?

Yes, a tweed would be more rustic and thus casual. I just think that someone is going to have unnecessary problems if they get a blue flannel sport coat.

Navy worsted flannel and heavy navy serge are almost identical in terms of formality when it comes to a blazer imo. Serge less than 400g with smooth finish(not milled) looks pretty much identical to a regular suiting twill and is usually a preferred choice for a serge blazer.

However, a true navy or blue sports coat would require more texture and visual interests. But if the plan is a blazer, I can’t see why worsted flannel and even some woollen flannels would be an issue.

Funny – I'm likely choosing between this worsted flannel…

2080 Vintage Flannel Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£83/m Prices exclude VAT VINTAGE FLANNEL NAVY Composition: 100% wool Weight: 420g/m or 15oz/m Selvedge: 2080 ALL WOOL WORSTED VINTAGE FLANNEL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY ARTHUR HARRISON Ref: 2080/281811/C4

www.taylorandlodge.com

…and this heavy serge:

A120 Archive Coat Dark Navy Twill — Taylor & Lodge

£110/m Prices exclude VAT FLANNEL COATING NAVY TWILL Composition: 100% wool Weight: 570g/m or 20oz/m Selvedge: ARCHIVE LUMB’S GOLDEN BALE LUXURY COATING MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY TAYLOR & LODGE THE ICONIC COLLECTION Ref: A120/64556/E4

www.taylorandlodge.com

Almost for sure I'm going to make up the first in a suit with an SB jacket. The question then is whether I can use the jacket as an odd blazer if I want – and frankly I think there's a little bit of menswear-obsessed, well, *obsessing* going on here (obviously I'm the instigator and guilty of it myself 😂).

That is, we're NOT talking about a navy sharkskin with matching buttons – we're talking about a heavier cloth with definite texture, and contrasting horn buttons. In 2022, as long as your audience isn't Bruce Boyer, I think that works just fine as on odd blazer. Like others have said already, a navy/midnight blazer is more formal than other jackets – and I'm intending this as a formal blazer.

Separately…I want to do a 6x1 DB navy blazer – it's just a cut that really suits me. There's a slight attraction to making it in the same cloth for added flexibility – but frankly I think that look is better as an odd jacket, and if I'm wearing a suit I'm almost always reaching for the SB.

So that points in the direction of the heavy serge for the DB. The only issue is that I'm worried that the ultra heavy weight will be super limiting and that I'll never actually want to wear the thing indoors. So I'm considering the worsted flannel there as well.

Again, though, despite my being the one to raise the question, when push comes to shove I really think a heavy worsted flannel with contrasting horn buttons does NOT scream orphaned suit coat in the way a hard worsted does, so I think I'm good no matter which way I go.

 

[Zerase]

Anyone know where to look at Marling and Evans cloth online? Their website redirects to some shady looking site.

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