Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ladislav.jancik]

However, a true navy or blue sports coat would require more texture and visual interests. But if the plan is a blazer, I can’t see why worsted flannel and even some woollen flannels would be an issue.

Separately…I want to do a 6x1 DB navy blazer – it's just a cut that really suits me. There's a slight attraction to making it in the same cloth for added flexibility – but frankly I think that look is better as an odd jacket, and if I'm wearing a suit I'm almost always reaching for the SB.

I agree. Navy flannel is valid cloth for a blazer. Steven Hitchcock's recent version is quite nice:

 

[Zerase]

Why doesn't navy flannel work as a SC when gray flannel is the ultimate odd trousers colour and material combination?

 

[FlowableFill]

Natural stock collection

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Thanks, that's one of the books I was interested in.

 

[Zerase]

Thanks, that's one of the books I was interested in.

720g undyed tweed for an overcoat, yes, YES!?

 

[dieworkwear]

I agree. Navy flannel is valid cloth for a blazer. Steven Hitchcock's recent version is quite nice:

Buttons look strange to me.

Why doesn't navy flannel work as a SC when gray flannel is the ultimate odd trousers colour and material combination?

Precisely because you're probably going to be wearing grey flannels.

 

[konstantis]

Personally not into those. I don't know why, but a lot of patterned linens look bad to me. The lines are too vivid and sharp, and the designs/ color combos don't look classic to me.

Maison Hellard has some surprisingly nice patterned linens that almost look like soft woolens. IMO, they get the colors and lines right. For example

Chant des pins

Chant des pins is a personal favourite, a memory of the Landes pine forests. This Glen check is made of a brown melange for added texture and dark green deco.

maisonhellard.com

Chemin de plage

Chemin de plage is the transposition of a timeless design that sits between the country and the seaside. As often, the simpler the better.

maisonhellard.com

Yes these are really nice. How is the quality ?

 

[dieworkwear]

Yes these are really nice. How is the quality ?

I don't have any experience with the fabric made into a garment. I only have swatches. They feel nice. Softer than W. Bill, but not as soft as Solbiati. Somewhere between British linen and Italian linen.

A friend of mine has a jacket made from Hellard linen and likes it.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

Buttons look strange to me.

I guess they are navy enamel from Holland and Sherry:

Holland & Sherry

Holland & Sherry

apparel.hollandandsherry.com

Not something I would choose personally though.

 

[Zerase]

Buttons look strange to me.



Precisely because you're probably going to be wearing grey flannels.

So too match-y match-y?

 

[Marshak]

Personally not into those. I don't know why, but a lot of patterned linens look bad to me. The lines are too vivid and sharp, and the designs/ color combos don't look classic to me.

Maison Hellard has some surprisingly nice patterned linens that almost look like soft woolens. IMO, they get the colors and lines right. For example

Chant des pins

Chant des pins is a personal favourite, a memory of the Landes pine forests. This Glen check is made of a brown melange for added texture and dark green deco.

maisonhellard.com

Chemin de plage

Chemin de plage is the transposition of a timeless design that sits between the country and the seaside. As often, the simpler the better.

maisonhellard.com

Very nice and tempting French linens Indeed.

 

[classicalthunde]

So after all this flannel/doeskin talk....is there a go-to recommendation for a navy doeskin these days or a book that has doeskin options? I'm gone down the rabbit hole and am really digging the Armoury images below of Daniel's Tailor Caid blazer as inspiration for a second navy sport coat

not related...I also received some Maison Hellard swatches last week and agree that the patterns are really nice (so are the names too "Derniere Lumiere", "Rencontre Nocturne" etc.), and the cloth is substantial yet soft. They are tentatively on the docket for a summer 2023 commission

 

[dieworkwear]

So too match-y match-y?

For me, it would be. I don't think it's a faux pas or anything. I guess I just think it's like a denim jacket with denim jeans. It's probably doable, but I think it would be easier to wear a navy sport coat if the material were something else. Something that gave more contrast. And given the availability of other options -- serge, tweed, doeskin, etc -- I guess I don't understand why someone would go for flannel since it has no intrinsic upsides.

 

[Zerase]

For me, it would be. I don't think it's a faux pas or anything. I guess I just think it's like a denim jacket with denim jeans. It's probably doable, but I think it would be easier to wear a navy sport coat if the material were something else. Something that gave more contrast. And given the availability of other options -- serge, tweed, doeskin, etc -- I guess I don't understand why someone would go for flannel since it has no intrinsic upsides.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I haven't though of it as wearing double denim but, I guess it makes sense when you say that their are som many other materials for an odd jacket.

 

[Sreezy36]

So a navy flannel blazer and flannel trousers are “too matchy” now? 😂😂😂😂

I smell a new styleforum CM debate brewing. “Is it good taste for one to wear a navy or blue odd jacket with grey flannel trousers?”

 

[dieworkwear]

So a navy flannel blazer and flannel trousers are “too matchy” now? 😂😂😂😂

IIRC, this has been debated here in the past a few times with no consensus. Some people think it's a bad idea; some people think it's OK. If you search for the term flannel sport coat, you can bring up various threads.