Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Amidé]

I was all set to get a sportscoat in this cloth from Fox (https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-journey/products/taupe-windowpane) from their Fox Journey Jacketing bunch, and then happened to see a video of the cloth on YouTube which had it show in a VERY different color. Obviously, lighting, cameras, screens, etc. all play a big difference, but I won't be able to get my hands on an actual swatch soon enough, so I'm hoping someone either has a piece made in this or a swatch they can take a picture of for me? I realize it's pretty specific, but, you know, this kinda seems like the place for that....
Thanks in advance if you're able to help.

I’ve used two of the madras checks from that bunch last year, and I find the colours on that website to be very close to the actual colours of the fabrics. Can’t ever be spot on though.. so always safe to get a swatch.

 

[Concordia]

Got this pair of brushed cotton chino. Made from Caccioppoli's 'Cotton & Velvet' bunch. Super comfy.

View attachment 1586432

Very pleasantly relaxed. You had to let the hems down after cleaning?

 

[WhereNext]

I’ve used two of the madras checks from that bunch last year, and I find the colours on that website to be very close to the actual colours of the fabrics. Can’t ever be spot on though.. so always safe to get a swatch.

Yeah, I've decided to change the order of my next commissions which will hopefully give me time to get swatches, just to be safe. Any thoughts on the cloth in general from your two jackets thus far?

 

[Amidé]

Yeah, I've decided to change the order of my next commissions which will hopefully give me time to get swatches, just to be safe. Any thoughts on the cloth in general from your two jackets thus far?

Wise choice. I used them for ties, not jackets. Very nice fabric for ties though.. as is Fox Air!

 

[dukeaw]

Does anyone have any experience with Stylbiella fabrics? It appears to be a Chinese merchant sourcing Italian fabrics. Pricing is very reasonable compared to importing from European merchants when working with Asian factories. They have some attractive wool/silk/linen blends for sport coats, but I cant feel any swatches.

 

[Chrjs]

Hello everyone,
I have got two safari jackets made by Luxire in their unbranded pure linen cloth. They are blue and the colour of the first faded after 1 summer week and they made a new one for free after speaking to their supplier.
But the next in the same fabric started to fade after two months of mild british summer sun.
Is that specific to the fabric or would every coloured linen fade so quickly?
In the photo I compare the outside (marked) to the unchanged inside.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Spoiler

Hello everyone,
I have got two safari jackets made by Luxire in their unbranded pure linen cloth. They are blue and the colour of the first faded after 1 summer week and they made a new one for free after speaking to their supplier.
But the next in the same fabric started to fade after two months of mild british summer sun.
Is that specific to the fabric or would every coloured linen fade so quickly?
In the photo I compare the outside (marked) to the unchanged inside.

View attachment 1586936

Hard to tell from that photo: better photos would help. Piece-dyed linen in dark colors is going to fade, and yarn-dyed linen probably will too, eventually. See the discussion of piece-dyed and yarn-dyed linens and fading in this thread from a couple of weeks ago. Having said that, fading after one week of British sun does seem remarkably fast. I'm not a dyer nor a weaver nor a cloth merchant nor tailor (though I have dyed several cloths), but I'd guess it's a rushed dye job on a piece-dyed cloth. I'd tell Luxire: they should probably retire that cloth or stick a warning label on it. Personally, I'd move on to linen cloths from reputable names in Ireland, Italy, Japan, Lithuania, Belgium, Czech Republic, UK. I have trousers in dark-hued upholstery linen from Czech Rep, wear them all the time in US summer sun, and they still haven't faded years later (although their seat did, because of abrasion).

 

[Concordia]

Chipp used to tell customers that their linen suits were 'guaranteed to wrinkle.' To a degree, fading is also part of the patina that you can expect. Whether this is too much, too fast, is another question.

 

[dieworkwear]

I have some garments made from W. Bill and Solbiati linen. They have a little fading from infrequent wearing. I dont know when they started fading, but I've had them for about ten years.

 

[brax]

Im the same but when you go through two pairs of flannel trousers within 3 years you start to question the price of trousers.

I don’t want the Ferrari I want the Honda Civic.

Fewer squats may solve that problem.

 

[lordsuperb]

Fewer squats may solve that problem.

I hope to be squatting and power cleaning well into my 60's.

I've had the most luck with linen, calvary twill, and whipcord trousers. And will make those a staple in my wardrobe.

 

[brax]

I hope to be squatting and power cleaning well into my 60's.

I've had the most luck with linen, calvary twill, and whipcord trousers. And will make those a staple in my wardrobe.

Surprised to see linen on the list. I expected twill and whipcord.

My squatting is odd as my front and back squat PRs are pretty much the same. But the squat clean is my favorite movement.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Any experiences with H.Lesser Lumbs Golden Bale?

In particular their (worsted?) flannels:

I'd like to know how they do compare in terms of drape and durability to their non-golden bale equivalents. And also the price if you happen to know.

What I could already notice with the swatches is that the hand is substantially softer and the colours more vibrant if that makes sense.

First time I see a suiting cloth in black that I like btw.

 

[Chrjs]

I appreciate your answers regarding my question about the faded linen.
I read through the conversation about different coloured linens and are going to search for an alternative 11oz linen in blue from a reliable brand and ask them directly about their dying process.
Here is a better photo, the marked area has the original blue, the faded parts are from some weeks of wear only.
I expect the linen to keep its colour at least three years, do you know an alternative cloth that is medium heavy, a little rough and summer ready?

 

[dieworkwear]

I appreciate your answers regarding my question about the faded linen.
I read through the conversation about different coloured linens and are going to search for an alternative 11oz linen in blue from a reliable brand and ask them directly about their dying process.
Here is a better photo, the marked area has the original blue, the faded parts are from some weeks of wear only.
I expect the linen to keep its colour at least three years, do you know an alternative cloth that is medium heavy, a little rough and summer ready?


View attachment 1587425

Try Solbiati