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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

dukeaw

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Mine are cut the same; the only change is that odd trousers get 1 back pocket and my suit trousers have none.
I cut my suit trousers a touch looser on the waist for suspenders. The U-rise is also about 1-2 inches greater for a higher waist position and single reverse pleat. Odd trousers are slightly lower u rise and tighter on waist with plain front. No suspenders but have side pulls. Cut same in hips, thighs, knee, bottom. But thats just my style. In my early 30's
 

reidd

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Sreezy36

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I swear the English “drape cut” is really growing on me. The functionality and practicality have always intrigued me(ie: range of motion and comfort). Now I’m beginning to appreciate the extremely elegant aesthetic symmetry that it showcases. I’m very interested to see how the cut looks on my body type. I’m about a little over 6” with a muscular athletic build, broad shoulders, and large chest (46/47 with 34 inch waist).
 

Concordia

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Do you guys get your matching suit trousers cut the same way as your odd trousers? For example, would you get a pair of odd flannel or fresco trousers cut the same way as typical charcoal sharkskin suit trouser?
Occasionally, I like the idea of having a bit snugger ankles on odd trousers. That is a bit more casual, and might not fit your idea of a 2 or 3-pc suit.
Otherwise, if I ask for odd trousers from a guy who normally does my suits, I don't usually ask for anything different. Maybe more likely to have belt loops, but not in a different way than a suit with the same specs.
 

kolecho

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I appreciate your answers regarding my question about the faded linen.
I read through the conversation about different coloured linens and are going to search for an alternative 11oz linen in blue from a reliable brand and ask them directly about their dying process.
Here is a better photo, the marked area has the original blue, the faded parts are from some weeks of wear only.
I expect the linen to keep its colour at least three years, do you know an alternative cloth that is medium heavy, a little rough and summer ready?


View attachment 1587425

I've used linen (both Irish and Italian linens) extensively and even laundered them in the washing machine without such fading. Yes there will be some fading over time but it should not be patchy like yours. See if your tailor would replace it with linen say W. Bill, Minnis, Duddale, Solbiati, Caccioppoli etc.
 

Chrjs

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I've used linen (both Irish and Italian linens) extensively and even laundered them in the washing machine without such fading. Yes there will be some fading over time but it should not be patchy like yours. See if your tailor would replace it with linen say W. Bill, Minnis, Duddale, Solbiati, Caccioppoli etc.
That's great to hear, due to Brexit it has to be a UK manufacturer, I am looking for nice linens here and ask the producers directly about their dying process and how long theg expect the colour to last.
 

tender_t

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Hi, I think this is my first posting here. I have a question. I love this cloth here:


It seems to be an old cloth The armory ordered some time ago. But: Does anybody know if anything similar is available anywhere? It's a brown tweed that has lots of colors in it.

Thanks.
 

Simon A

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That's great to hear, due to Brexit it has to be a UK manufacturer, I am looking for nice linens here and ask the producers directly about their dying process and how long theg expect the colour to last.
There are no longer any commercial linen spinning mills in Ireland, this sector shut down 20 years ago. Commercial flax production shut down in Ireland in the 1960's. Flax farming, processing and linen yarn spinning is done in France, Belgium or Italy, and so yarn dying may be done there also. There are nine remaining commercial linen weavers and finishers in Ireland; some finishers will piece-dye and finish linen fabric for other weavers on contract. English merchants' technical teams are no doubt on top of all the details of who does what and where and how to their fabrics, but I doubt their sales staff have this in-depth knowledge.

You might like to watch this short video on piece dying at Baird McNutt (sister company of John Hanna); I have found the John Hanna suitings keep their colour pretty well, although darker colours will inevitably fade more noticeably than light coloured fabrics over time.
 
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