Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Despos]

Received this today. Feels really smooth in the hand (to me it is even smoother than the escorial wool) but I am guessing it might not have enough drape. View attachment 1363367

Is this from the Eton sample book? Cannot compare this with Escorial. Apples and oranges. This is a light weight very tightly woven worsted. It's very good cloth but light weight and will drape in a different way than any Escorial cloth.

 

[Mr. Six]

I don't think I've ever had a shirt stick to a partially lined jacket. Since several tailors have raised the issue, I believe it. I just haven't experienced it. And I would probably trade that for the extra ventilation.

 

[TweedyProf]

My Minnis Mock Leno jacket is half lined. Shirt doesn't show through.

Full lining

Unless you want your shirts to stick to the jacket.

I don't think I've ever had a shirt stick to a partially lined jacket. Since several tailors have raised the issue, I believe it. I just haven't experienced it. And I would probably trade that for the extra ventilation.

Well, since I respect all of your opinions, I have a damn contradiction from which everything follows. Maybe I'll do both!

 

[dieworkwear]

Well, since I respect all of your opinions, I have a damn contradiction from which everything follows. Maybe I'll do both!

 

[lordsuperb]

I don't think I've ever had a shirt stick to a partially lined jacket. Since several tailors have raised the issue, I believe it. I just haven't experienced it. And I would probably trade that for the extra ventilation.

The british tailors will claim its a styling issue and will raise hell but they’ve never dealt with humid DC summers.

 

[Despos]

I don't care for partial lining on a light weight cloth for the same reason I don't like unlined ties.
Having no lining from the bottom of the armhole to the hem across the back doesn't do much.
If you want to be cooler wearing a jacket ask for lighter weight hymo for the canvass and a more porous chest piece. Reduce where there are more layers which is the front of the jacket. Removing the back lining when lining has practically no weight to it doesn't do much IMO. So now you say it allows air to flow more.
Like I said, it's more effective on the fronts than the back.

Wearing lighter weight shirts is my keep cooler method.
Favorite is cotton/linen blends. Wear them exclusively for the summer weather. The shirt fabric doesn't retain heat, allows for more self ventilating and is more effective at keeping you cool than the effect a half lined jacket will.

 

[aristoi bcn]

My neapolitan tailor always puts lining in Fresco type cloths and avoids the (not so recent now) trend of making everything unlined. He might have experience with it as Naples is a very humid and hot city half of the year. He would also probably refuse the request of making a linen or cotton jacked lined though.

 

[SpaceFunk]

Hi guys, anyone know which fabric bunches I should look at to find a burgundy linen/linen blend fabric?

Something similar to this?



Closest thing I've found so far is this:
https://hallmadden.com/zegna-cotton-linen/5p9wd351ua3fq59u0ohromlmbzsi4n

Thank you!

 

[aristoi bcn]

Hi guys, anyone know which fabric bunches I should look at to find a burgundy linen/linen blend fabric?

Something similar to this?

View attachment 1364822

Closest thing I've found so far is this:
https://hallmadden.com/zegna-cotton-linen/5p9wd351ua3fq59u0ohromlmbzsi4n

Thank you!

https://www.carnet.it/en/color-book/5949-pure-linen.html

 

[ZRH1]

how can one buy on Carnet?

 

[The Chai]

All this talk is making me regret getting my new DJ quarter-lined

 

[Crispyj]

Anyone ever tried Drago Rugby Flannel for a jacket?

 

[RogerC]

Someone I know has one. It looks lovely, with just enough texture to make it interesting.

 

[aaronatKW]

Does anyone have any recommendations for mills/merchants that do Cotton (usually with Silk/Wool/Linen, or any combination of them). I find a fair amount of these in RTW (Cucinelli often do Cotton/Silk/Wool and Cotton/Silk/Linen jackets), but I can't seem to find bunches with them in very easily?

Silk, wool and linen are often blended in summer jacketing. Blending with cotton is more unusual.

This might be something for Solbiati, but they and their parent Loro Piana do not have good online presentations. The Solbiati website does offer a guide to their bunches, however.

The best online presentation of contemporary summer jacketing is from the Neapolitan cloth merchant Ariston.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Silk, wool and linen are often blended in summer jacketing. Blending with cotton is more unusual.

This might be something for Solbiati, but they and their parent Loro Piana do not have good online presentations. The Solbiati website does offer a guide to their bunches, however.

The best online presentation of contemporary summer jacketing is from the Neapolitan cloth merchant Ariston.

Not sure if my reply is still pertinent in this age when everything is moving fast. But LP has some nice cotton blends in their Mare book: https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-mare/

• 'Softime' at the page top which is a cotton-wool-silk blend, in a slubby plain weave that looks pretty similar to the 'Summertime' wool-silk-linen, but I imagine the cotton properties would dominate, so it rumples and moulds to your body shape
• Towards the bottom of the page are some pure cotton or with minimal EA blended