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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Royal_Airforce

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Silk, wool and linen are often blended in summer jacketing. Blending with cotton is more unusual.

This might be something for Solbiati, but they and their parent Loro Piana do not have good online presentations. The Solbiati website does offer a guide to their bunches, however.

The best online presentation of contemporary summer jacketing is from the Neapolitan cloth merchant Ariston.
Not sure if my reply is still pertinent in this age when everything is moving fast. But LP has some nice cotton blends in their Mare book: https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-mare/
  • 'Softime' at the page top which is a cotton-wool-silk blend, in a slubby plain weave that looks pretty similar to the 'Summertime' wool-silk-linen, but I imagine the cotton properties would dominate, so it rumples and moulds to your body shape
  • Towards the bottom of the page are some pure cotton or with minimal EA blended
 

jonathanS

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The Chai

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@Royal_Airforce guess what, I may join you and have a dinner jacket made out of either mohair fresco or Harrisons cape kid. Unfortunately I’ve grown out some of my coats :-/ trying to debate between a three piece sbpl or a single shawl
 

reidd

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@Royal_Airforce guess what, I may join you and have a dinner jacket made out of either mohair fresco or Harrisons cape kid. Unfortunately I’ve grown out some of my coats :-/ trying to debate between a three piece sbpl or a single shawl
How many DJ's do you have?
 

Royal_Airforce

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@Royal_Airforce guess what, I may join you and have a dinner jacket made out of either mohair fresco or Harrisons cape kid. Unfortunately I’ve grown out some of my coats :-/ trying to debate between a three piece sbpl or a single shawl
Your application to the club is well received : )

Configuration wise, my profile pic (stolen from F.E. Castleberry) serves a source of inspiration for a single shawl. Make it in midnight / black, and you may even wear it with a tartan trouser - at least a non-clan one assuming you have no Scottish descent. Broken arm optional.
 
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bdavro23

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Not sure if my reply is still pertinent in this age when everything is moving fast. But LP has some nice cotton blends in their Mare book: https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-mare/
  • 'Softime' at the page top which is a cotton-wool-silk blend, in a slubby plain weave that looks pretty similar to the 'Summertime' wool-silk-linen, but I imagine the cotton properties would dominate, so it rumples and moulds to your body shape
  • Towards the bottom of the page are some pure cotton or with minimal EA blended
Its worth remembering that cotton has no give or stretch to it. As such, you likely need to have it cut with a little more tolerance than other cloths. Also, if the cotton stretched, it doesnt recover the way wool does, so it can become mis-shapened.
 

SpaceFunk

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You know what? Spend 5k on that as a suit. Then message me in a year when you realize what a terrible investment that was. It’s a catastrophe.

edit: unless you’re an actual pimp.
Thought you implied it was terrible in all aspects but yeah, you have a point mate. I guess how many times would I have the opportunity to wear it? Who knows. At least we agree it's a suit for pimps.


My situation is that I'm a poor mans pimp (musician) so I go for MTM casual suits. I don't really have business-y settings I attend, so more neutral low key colours aren't always my thing if I am going to wear a suit, (edit: I want something with a little more flair). I guess I'm breaking the rule of having a go to default to navy (I do have a cheap navy) or charcoal suit.
 
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Despos

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Thought you implied it was terrible in all aspects but yeah, you have a point mate. I guess how many times would I have the opportunity to wear it? Who knows. At least we agree it's a suit for pimps.


My situation is that I'm a poor mans pimp (musician) so I go for MTM casual suits. I don't really have business-y settings I attend, so more neutral low key colours aren't always my thing if I am going to wear a suit. I guess I'm breaking the rule of having a go to navy (I do have a cheap navy) or charcoal suit.
Go darker burgundy. There are wools that are burgundy/black. I make them as suits or jackets. When it's that dark it's more sophisticated but can be accessorized as you like. Made many more as jackets and only a few as suits. Everybody replied the same. They wore it and liked it more than they expected to.
You can't dress up the lighter, brighter burgundy shade as well as you can make the darker more casual.
 

The Chai

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Anyone have thoughts on using rayon or a rayon/linen for a dress shirt
 

ZRH1

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Go darker burgundy. There are wools that are burgundy/black. I make them as suits or jackets. When it's that dark it's more sophisticated but can be accessorized as you like. Made many more as jackets and only a few as suits. Everybody replied the same. They wore it and liked it more than they expected to.
You can't dress up the lighter, brighter burgundy shade as well as you can make the darker more casual.
hey, may I chime in: I am looking for exactly such a very dark burgundy, actually a very dark green too. Could you share?

Thanks!
 

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