Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

I don't have a ref (it's from @spiermackay who might be able to help you though). It's heavy Irish (or Irish-ish) linen from Minnis, likely in the 12oz range.

was it RTW or MTM?

 

[RogerC]

Would you have made a suit in a blend cloth like the ones in the Mare book? Or only jacket?

Loro Piana advertise Mare as a suiting book, and I must say the RAF blue (704031) is talking to me. But it's a new book, and I haven't yet had the opportunity to handle the fabric, so I'm only basing myself on pictures.

 

[jdp234]

was it RTW or MTM?

RTW from a couple years ago https://www.spierandmackay.com/minnis-tobacco-linen.html

 

[TweedyProf]

Well here are two more: Harrison's Icaraus and Indigo in what looks to be navy

Harrisons of Edinburgh Indigo CODE 98221 230gm 8oz 80% WOOL 20% LINEN

Harrison’s Icarus 220 - 240gms / 7 - 8ozs Wool Silk & Linen jacketing 75% Super 100's, 15% Silk, 10% Linen

Anyone made these up, or have experience with other fabrics from the books, and can comment on the cloth?

 

[Alocin]

@jdp234 was digging through the thread for older linen discussions and came across this image you posted a while ago, I love the color of this...do you happen to recall what the specific fabric is (mill/merchant, ref number, weight, etc?)

Sorry- Delete.

 

[norMD]

@classicalthunde

Rick mentioned that they will offer that linen in MTO this spring.

 

[Mr. Six]

Coxsackie with the Drapers 2421 w-s-l suit.

Thought I would cross-post these in-the-wild pics of the Coccinella suit I had made in Osaka earlier this year.





Fabric is Draper 2421, 7 1/2oz wool/silk/linen, very light and summery. I had the jacket buggy-lined and the pants were left unlined for Sydney summers.

I'm very happy with the result. In fact I have another commission on the way - a two-piece winter suit in the fabled Minnis 0656 houndstooth flannel.

The new suit will have a slightly longer jacket with slightly lower buttoning point; slightly wider shoulders and slightly fuller chest to minimise lapel bowing; slightly more full-cut trousers. It will be fully lined and feature a high waist with fishtail back, buttons for braces, no belt loops.

I'm trusting that the Coccinella guys (Chujo and son) can nail this one down on the basis of measurements already taken. A bit of a risk given no opportunity for fittings. We'll see how it turns out.

 

[dan'l]

View attachment 1344692 This is a large plaid in the same book, comes in more than one color

Hello Mr. Despos,

Excellent - this is what I was looking for, but in gray tones! Do you happen to have the cloth number for the gray version, along with the weight? I think you mentioned 17 ounces above, but that would be around 480 grams, which is quite light for an overcoat. But I suppose this is typical of Italian coating cloths.

Thanks.

 

[CorozoButton]

Is it possible to come across Loro Piana cloth (that is branded LP, not woven for another merchant) that doesn't say Loro Piana on the selvedge? I found a cloth in a fabric store (it is a very highly reputable store, I do not believe anyone is trying anything funny, just possibly there was a mix up). I don't recall there being any writing on the selvedge, but I have provided a picture of the small sample here.

Thanks

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dan (@dan'l) hi,

Earlier today I had a fitting in my tailor's and I specifically requested the current Drapers overcoating bunch for you and other gentlemen in this Thread.

Well, having in mind the overcoating fabric that you are searching I have to say this: the Drapers bunch has three different fabrics that are not even remotely close to what you aspire to find; their composition is 94% wool - 6% polyamide at 560grams.

a) The first is the one that @Despos has posted, it is a light beige/tan p-d-g without overcheck as shown in the image.
b) The second fabric is a mid-grey with two colored overchecks - the one running horizontally while the other vertically the plaid - with the one being beige/sand, and the other royal blue.
c) Finally, the third one is a mid-to-dark grey with a beige/sand (as in b) overcheck.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @buddyfuzz,

I am aware of couple conditions, based on which, a fabric without selvedge is genuine in all respects:

First, a fabric being one of the pre-production, sampling process that mills are producing for internal deliberation and to present these fabrics to their wholesale customers to gauge their interest. A lot of samples do not make it for the mill's final production output and therefore these pre-production fabrics (not rolls, but very limited quantities) may find themselves in the marketplace (see further down).

Second, the mill produces - again - a small quantity of all the approved fabrics that will become part of the collection, to be used for the bunches, books, and/or fabric cards. It is not uncommon, though, the planned number of bunches, etc (so the respective fabric needs) and the minimum production output per fabric to end up on a slight mismatch, and therefore in this case, the surplus of limited quantities of fabric may be channeled to specific, selected wholesale clients (brand's agents, representatives).

If the said seller enjoys such a special relationship with LP, one of these conditions might be the case!

Cheers,

Dimitris

Edited to add:
If I were you, I would mention nothing of the above and merely ask them how this fabric found itself in their possession, and which is the accompanying story!

 

[The Chai]

^^^ can confirm. My recent unfunded liability from loro piana has no selvedge but I have a order and delivery receipt plus the tag to confirm it is indeed a loro piana cloth. My tailor has confirmed it too...

 

[lordsuperb]

My purple tragedy didn’t have a selvedge as well.

 

[CorozoButton]

I believe I've worked out the situation with the aforementioned LP fabric. I believe it's the same one ROTA used a couple of years back for their NMWA green pants.

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Do you think this fabric would work well for a suit that could be split in to separates? I'm not concerned about the trousers, but with the right details (no padding, no flap pockets, 3r2, spalla camicia), could the jacket work separately? I think it's the same quality that's seen in the LP Mare book for many of the W/S/L.

 

[Concordia]

Now it appears they have completely changed the Spring Ram book since I made my order in the winter. A lot more patterns, only one "stitched hopsack", and that one seems to be a heavier weight.

I also see that there is now a quote on the label of 55% Cheviot. Previously, I don't think there was any qualification on the amount. Has the blend and the feel changed?