Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[sebastian mcfox]

Hey gang, I’m looking for overcoating in a medium weight taupe or mousy brown. Loro Piana has some nice options in their Pecora Nera range, but not quite the right shade (too light or dark), plus about $2000 more than most other books.

For reference, something similar to this

 

[aristoi bcn]

Hey gang, I’m looking for overcoating in a medium weight taupe or mousy brown. Loro Piana has some nice options in their Pecora Nera range, but not quite the right shade (too light or dark), plus about $2000 more than most other books.

For reference, something similar to this

View attachment 1337771 View attachment 1337772 View attachment 1337773

Fox.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Fox.

View attachment 1337854

Lovely, but the shade is too warm

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Lovely, but the shade is too warm

Perhaps Drapers Covert cloth? Their # 6735 looks like kin to that Fox cloth, but their # 6736 is a little colder and darker and their # 6732 even moreso. Abraham Moon offer also offers something in that family. (I've been looking into getting a covert coat made, so this sort of thing is on my mind)

 

[sebastian mcfox]

Perhaps Drapers Covert cloth? Their # 6735 looks like kin to that Fox cloth, but their # 6736 is a little colder and darker and their # 6732 even moreso. Abraham Moon offer also offers something in that family. (I've been looking into getting a covert coat made, so this sort of thing is on my mind)

Thanks! I’ll hunt down some Drapers swatches

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks! I’ll hunt down some Drapers swatches

you can order them off of their new site I think

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

you can order them off of their new site I think

It appears that it can be ordered through the Drapers site, which might be the, "new site," that you referred to and, per the relevant section of their FAQs, that swatches [samples] may be ordered for shipping cost, which would be deducted from the cost of the order of any of the fabrics that one buys samples of.

 

[JGC]

Not the same but similar: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-air/products/ecru-base-navy-and-walnut-check

Thanks very much @DavidLane for finding this similar cloth.

Any other suggestions as to the original fabric (difficult given the grainy photo) or a similar one in green would be much appreciated.

 

[dan'l]

Dan (@dan'l) hi,

How fruitful was your "treasure hunting" in Austria?

Cheers,

Dimitris

I stopped by Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe and they had some wonderful cloth, but with eye-watering prices to match. Also swung by Knize. Really nice and historical shop. I‘ve been on the lookout for a cashmere cardigan with shawl collar - they had just what I was looking for, but I was grateful for my wallet that they didn‘t have my size in stock!

 

[Concordia]

Definitely P&B and the heavier Lesser.

What's are some of the preferred non-flannel F/W suiting cloths? All things considered, I'd prefer fabrics that skew more casual to avoid looking too business-y a la super slick worsteds.

Harrison's P&B looks to have some intriguing options ?

Lesser 16oz, while not slick in an Arab princeling sort of way, is still quite urban. Less so than the 13oz, which will be crisper and have a bit of Wall Street.

The P&B Universal, which is either 15 or 18oz, I think, has a bit more rustic/utilitarian bent to it. Also in the Harrisons book, Oyster is a beefy but not unrefined 13oz. Same general market as Lesser, but a bit more relaxed in look.

 

[DavidLane]

Hey gang, I’m looking for overcoating in a medium weight taupe or mousy brown. Loro Piana has some nice options in their Pecora Nera range, but not quite the right shade (too light or dark), plus about $2000 more than most other books.

For reference, something similar to this

View attachment 1337771 View attachment 1337772 View attachment 1337773

Just so happen to have a few swatches that are similar. The first two are Fox and the third is Marling and Evans Natural (not sure which #). The smaller Fox sample is definitely more green. M&E is very spongy and beautiful stuff.

-DL

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @sebastian mcfox,

I don't know if you found your second photo online as is (cropped), or you edited it; this is Andreas Weinås and so it happens that I have saved couple of his photos wearing the same overcoat, basically due to its aesthetic.

I can recall reading that it was made by a Holland & Sherry overcoating fabric and therefore you may check the respective bunch; certainly you may contact him to assist you by sending you the said fabric code number!

I am wishing you the best,

Dimitris

 

[birdlives80]

Zegna’s “Cashco” is amazing.

I have a caruso sportcoat in Zegna cashco in their “Neapolitan” cut, it’s one of my favorite jackets. Soft but sturdy, so much more
Comfortable than other cord jackets I’ve had

 

[reidd]

Thanks very much @DavidLane for finding this similar cloth.

Any other suggestions as to the original fabric (difficult given the grainy photo) or a similar one in green would be much appreciated.

View attachment 1337967

Hmm. Do you know the seasonality of the cloth? It looks a lot like some of the jacketings coming from LBC/Carlo Barbera which are mostly summer weight. Several pretty close options in these bunches:

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/92

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/75 ----> check out number 19

 

[Concordia]

Just so happen to have a few swatches that are similar. The first two are Fox and the third is Marling and Evans Natural (not sure which #). The smaller Fox sample is definitely more green. M&E is very spongy and beautiful stuff.
View attachment 1338035
-DL

What is that one in the middle? The only BF602 on their website appears to be a herringbone tweed.