Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

Well, ignore the sponsor to both and judge on its merits.

 

[Simon A]

Noticed this post.
Am interested in acquiring a quality waterproof (mainly) trench for trips during cooler / wetter seasons. But have pretty well struck out in Australia. Have not really found anyone who stocks them other than Burberry.

Where would be a good place to look for quality trench coats in Oz? Something I would not be embarrassed to wear in Venice.

Based on their gallery, "The Finery Company" in Paddington can clearly make one, but I am not sure I am ready to go that far without exploring other options.

Apologies if I should be popping this in a different thread.

Could go for an old-school Macintosh from Cordings

 

[C&A]

no selvedge, but italian made flannel, lightweight (360g), so nothing fancy
just need some suiting for work and this will be made up for that purpose

you need suits for your work ?

 

[oldworldelegance]

Hi All,

Overhauling my wardrobe with a mix of MTM and bespoke and was hoping for some cloth suggestions for a core versatile navy jacket, with the following considerations in mind:

1) Live in Boston, summer is usually at least partly in London, and over time will be traveling a fair bit to a mix of places/climates.

2) Have an MTM blazer in the works in Minnis 510048 navy flannel (14.5oz, SB, patch pockets, Italian make and style) and another in Holland & Sherry 8821105 11oz grey herringbone tweed (more British cut and vibe).

The MTM commissions were to get going in time for fall/winter here and cover both work and play.

I’m now focused on a bespoke commission for a SB navy versatile jacket that I could wear year-round (barring perhaps the absolute depths of summer or winter). I’m looking for something that can be paired with both dress pants and jeans (tend to get raw denim and then let it slowly fade).

If I do this right, this should be the most used piece in my wardrobe, useable both at work (finance, business casual setting) and on the weekend, hence saving one of my bespoke bullets for it.

Any particular suggestions for cloth in terms of general type of fabric or specific references for the above situation?

In the past, my dedicated navy jackets/blazers have all been RTW, and so the fabric/styling choices were limited. I did have a Hackett one made with Fox hopsack that I used a LOT, and felt OK with jeans, although I’ve read some think hopsack is a faux pas with denim.

FWIW, this commission will be with a Florentine tailor, with the attendant cut/style. Open to pocket styles, and leaning towards dark brown horn buttons, but open to other materials.

If it makes any difference, my subsequent commission is likely to be a dark green jacket/blazer, but the navy one is the focus at the moment.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/guidance!

It's difficult to have a jacket that can be worn all year round unless the temperature is very similar. One suggestion is a heavier hopsack. The weight will add insulation but its open weave will help cool you down. The weave's texture means it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. There aren't many of those, but the Mistral from London Lounge is such a cloth. It seems there's some navy mistral left: https://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12266

I have a jacket made from Fox's hopsack which is great but probably too light for autumn or winter.

 

[Baked Potato]

It's difficult to have a jacket that can be worn all year round unless the temperature is very similar. One suggestion is a heavier hopsack. The weight will add insulation but its open weave will help cool you down. The weave's texture means it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. There aren't many of those, but the Mistral from London Lounge is such a cloth. It seems there's some navy mistral left: https://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12266

I have a jacket made from Fox's hopsack which is great but probably too light for autumn or winter.

Fox has a few heavier hopsacks too (like theese two: 1 and 2).

By the way, do you guys know of any fabrics that are similar to LP's wool/cashmere (90%/10%) overcoating fabrics, but heavier? LP's is around 500g, but I would like something around 600-700g. It seems like Italian fabrics usually aren't that heavy. Looking at British fabrics, you usually don't find any cashmere in there. Really liked LP's fabric, especially the softness and sheen that the cashmere contributed with. 500g won't stand against our Nordic winters though...

 

[jonathanS]

Fox has a few heavier hopsacks too (like theese two: 1 and 2).

By the way, do you guys know of any fabrics that are similar to LP's wool/cashmere (90%/10%) overcoating fabrics, but heavier? LP's is around 500g, but I would like something around 600-700g. It seems like Italian fabrics usually aren't that heavy. Looking at British fabrics, you usually don't find any cashmere in there. Really liked LP's fabric, especially the softness and sheen that the cashmere contributed with. 500g won't stand against our Nordic winters though...

Michael Alden has some LL cashmere leftover. Only 900£/meter.

 

[jonathanS]

Fox has a few heavier hopsacks too (like theese two: 1 and 2).

By the way, do you guys know of any fabrics that are similar to LP's wool/cashmere (90%/10%) overcoating fabrics, but heavier? LP's is around 500g, but I would like something around 600-700g. It seems like Italian fabrics usually aren't that heavy. Looking at British fabrics, you usually don't find any cashmere in there. Really liked LP's fabric, especially the softness and sheen that the cashmere contributed with. 500g won't stand against our Nordic winters though...

If @Oligarch is looking for a 90 / 10 wool / cashmere fabric, I have a length available.

DM me, we can work something out. Check with kotaro but I believe the fabric discount is 250€. See link below, it’s the third fabric. Might be warm for Boston summers, but the Boston summers aren’t as hot as more southern states.

VINTAGE FABRIC SALE! Carlo Barbera (Kiton), Lumbs Golden Bale, Hunters of Brora, VINTAGE Dormeiul,

All Fabric does not include shipping, which will be added. DM For more details & purchasing. I accept Paypal or Venmo. Discount available if you want to meet in person. Can meet in New York, Washington DC, or San Francisco. May be able to meet...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Baked Potato]

Michael Alden has some LL cashmere leftover. Only 900£/meter.

I'm not looking for a pure cashmere cloth. A navy 90% wool/10% cashmere around 600-700g suitable for a chesterfield design (to be combined with a velvet collar).

 

[TweedyProf]

Looking for mid-brown lighter wait cloth for odd trousers. H&S Crispaire has been suggested to me (I believe I have it made up in mid/light gray and quite like it for hot summer days). So, Crispaire is the default but I wonder if there's a heavier cloth that remains airy.

Wool ideal but mixes are fine too.

Is the received view still that Fresco is nice but itchy if unlined?

 

[WhereNext]

Fox has a few heavier hopsacks too (like theese two: 1 and 2).

By the way, do you guys know of any fabrics that are similar to LP's wool/cashmere (90%/10%) overcoating fabrics, but heavier? LP's is around 500g, but I would like something around 600-700g. It seems like Italian fabrics usually aren't that heavy. Looking at British fabrics, you usually don't find any cashmere in there. Really liked LP's fabric, especially the softness and sheen that the cashmere contributed with. 500g won't stand against our Nordic winters though...

I was just looking at overcoat fabrics yesterday, but for a slightly different vibe. I think the Standeven "Snowdonia" book had some wool/cashmere blends (in addition to camelhair) that were in the weight you're looking for. Barrington has a book called the "Serpentine Coating Collection" which is at 550 grams and seemed to be almost entirely made up of 90% Super 120s and 10% cashmere. The plains had a somewhat pronounced twill weave but a bit of luster and a great hand (on the shortlist for me in a camel color).
I also looked at the EThomas "Cashmere Wool Overcoat" book, but that's all closer to 500 grams, so too light for what you're looking for, unfortunately (but some very nice cloth).

 

[JHWilliams]

Looking for mid-brown lighter wait cloth for odd trousers. H&S Crispaire has been suggested to me (I believe I have it made up in mid/light gray and quite like it for hot summer days). So, Crispaire is the default but I wonder if there's a heavier cloth that remains airy.

Wool ideal but mixes are fine too.

Is the received view still that Fresco is nice but itchy if unlined?

Check out Drapers Ascot and Smith Woollens Finnmeresco. I have not heard good things about Crispaire.

 

[ZRH1]

I was just looking at overcoat fabrics yesterday, but for a slightly different vibe. I think the Standeven "Snowdonia" book had some wool/cashmere blends (in addition to camelhair) that were in the weight you're looking for. Barrington has a book called the "Serpentine Coating Collection" which is at 550 grams and seemed to be almost entirely made up of 90% Super 120s and 10% cashmere. The plains had a somewhat pronounced twill weave but a bit of luster and a great hand (on the shortlist for me in a camel color).
I also looked at the EThomas "Cashmere Wool Overcoat" book, but that's all closer to 500 grams, so too light for what you're looking for, unfortunately (but some very nice cloth).

the problem with Snowdonia is that is has a massive price now, on par with the LL heavier and 100% cashmere.

 

[jonathanS]

I'm not looking for a pure cashmere cloth. A navy 90% wool/10% cashmere around 600-700g suitable for a chesterfield design (to be combined with a velvet collar).

Why would you want a wool cashmere blend when 100% cashmere is an option. Especially for a coat. Aside from price being a factor.

 

[jonathanS]

Check out Drapers Ascot and Smith Woollens Finnmeresco. I have not heard good things about Crispaire.

+1. Big fan of both these books. As with fox air.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Looking for mid-brown lighter wait cloth for odd trousers. H&S Crispaire has been suggested to me (I believe I have it made up in mid/light gray and quite like it for hot summer days). So, Crispaire is the default but I wonder if there's a heavier cloth that remains airy.

Wool ideal but mixes are fine too.

Is the received view still that Fresco is nice but itchy if unlined?

IMO Drapers Ascot bunch has the best browns of the comparable bunches.