Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bjhofkin]

The easiest answer is to just ask them what they recommend and have available. I don't think they'll steer you wrong and the Armoury has a large variety of fabrics. Though I'd maybe let them know ahead of time, as they might not have something that heavy readily on hand.

Among their heavier worsted wool suitings, I think they have Dugdale 14 oz., and they've recommended it in the past. I know that's not as heavy as what you're asking for, but I think it's plenty, considering you're going to wear an overcoat, work inside in a heated office, etc.

P&B Universal is 16 oz. and I'm sure they can offer that.

They also like Draper's Ascot, and there are a few 16 oz. suit-friendly fabrics in that weight (navy, grey, charcoal, etc.) The finish is a bit rustic, from what I remember, but I liked it.

Is flannel out of the question? Heavy-weight flanner is more common.

Already had the appointment and asked them (obviously). Lovely guys – and Daniel Greenwood from The Armoury is both a friend and fantastic with cloth choices – but I wasn't at all into their suggestions. They wanted to steer me toward a flat navy, more or less, and that's just not what I'm looking for.

Also, the weights you're talking about aren't REMOTELY heavy enough; I'm talking about a coat you can walk outside in in Minnesota in January – not when it's -20° (Everest Parka weather), but definitely when it's 0°. 16 oz. would be a joke for an overcoat in this climate.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Already had the appointment and asked them (obviously). Lovely guys – and Daniel Greenwood from The Armoury is both a friend and fantastic with cloth choices – but I wasn't at all into their suggestions. They wanted to steer me toward a flat navy, more or less, and that's just not what I'm looking for.

Also, the weights you're talking about aren't REMOTELY heavy enough; I'm talking about a coat you can walk outside in in Minnesota in January – not when it's -20° (Everest Parka weather), but definitely when it's 0°. 16 oz. would be a joke for an overcoat in this climate.

@Despos might have some suggestions. I know he has made a coat for a client that lives in the same climate.

 

[tim_horton]

Also, the weights you're talking about aren't REMOTELY heavy enough; I'm talking about a coat you can walk outside in in Minnesota in January – not when it's -20° (Everest Parka weather), but definitely when it's 0°. 16 oz. would be a joke for an overcoat in this climate.

Oops, sorry, missted that this was for an overcoat.

 

[bjhofkin]

@Despos might have some suggestions. I know he has made a coat for a client that lives in the same climate.

For sure – thanks for the @.

Oops, sorry, missted that this was for an overcoat.

No worries – figured that might've been the case!

 

[JohnMRobie]

Also, the weights you're talking about aren't REMOTELY heavy enough; I'm talking about a coat you can walk outside in in Minnesota in January – not when it's -20° (Everest Parka weather), but definitely when it's 0°. 16 oz. would be a joke for an overcoat in this climate.

Sounds like you’re spending entirely too much time not using the skyways.

@Crispyj I think just looked for overcoat fabrics so he might have some ideas though

 

[bjhofkin]

Sounds like you’re spending entirely too much time not using the skyways.

@Crispyj I think just looked for overcoat fabrics so he might have some ideas though

Fair enough but I don't really go downtown much!

 

[bjhofkin]

Just found this – 30 oz!:

The Anthology x Permanent Style Polo Coat in Herringbone Donegal Tweed — The Anthology

Presenting the Herringbone Donegal Tweed Polo Coat - A special collaboration with the Permanent Style, a unique artistic interpretation that goes off on a tangent for a little unusual twist.

theanthology.net

If that cloth is available by the meter from the mill, that might be the beginning and end of it. Hard to find that sort of herringbone in anything close to that weight – and perfectly straddles gray and tan/natural/beige/brown.

 

[Crispyj]

I have an SEH Kelly 28oz balmacaan. Wears pretty well but definitely need to layer smartly. Not sure in -20 weather but good though for NYC with a tweed sportcoat underneath.

 

[dieworkwear]

Probably too spongy/open anyhow…but you don't still have that cloth by any chance, do you Derek?

I still have it. I wouldn't be opposed to selling it since I still haven't figured out what I'm doing with it. However, at Liverano's prices and for your purposes, I don't think this would be the right cloth for you. It's a bit too spongey. And the design is perhaps a little more fashion forward. The cloth you linked to that Anthology coat would be better IMO.

 

[Crispyj]

Fox has some heavy weights, so does Dugdale and Marling and Evans. Close to 30oz but quite expensive.

 

[bjhofkin]

I still have it. I wouldn't be opposed to selling it since I still haven't figured out what I'm doing with it. However, at Liverano's prices and for your purposes, I don't think this would be the right cloth for you. It's a bit too spongey. And the design is perhaps a little more fashion forward. The cloth you linked to that Anthology coat would be better IMO.

Yep I should've been explicit – that sort of cloth would be for a separate coat, likely a Balmacaan. Definitely too casual and difficult to tailor for a (relatively) more formal overcoat.

 

[bjhofkin]

Fox has some heavy weights, so does Dugdale and Marling and Evans. Close to 30oz but quite expensive.

Marling & Evans has come up and I'm for sure going to inquire.

Will look at Dugdale as well.

Fox is generally my go-to but in this case I just don't love their heaviest-weight selections (although I'm in the process of finding out if they have anything off-menu, if you will).

 

[Crispyj]

Marling & Evans has come up and I'm for sure going to inquire.

Will look at Dugdale as well.

Fox is generally my go-to but in this case I just don't love their heaviest-weight selections (although I'm in the process of finding out if they have anything off-menu, if you will).

23 oz

Willhays Tweed

Upon resurrecting this truly exquisite cloth from our Fox Brother's archive, we have received numerous requests to bring this piece 'back alive' and into production... which has certainly been no mean feat! Following this popular demand, we have expertly woven it once again, to bring you a...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

24-25oz

Black & White Houndstooth Coating

Upon resurrecting this truly exquisite cloth from our Fox Brother's archive, we have received numerous requests to bring this piece 'back alive' and into production... which has certainly been no mean feat! Following this popular demand, we have expertly woven it once again, to bring you a...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Oversized Glen Check

Upon resurrecting this truly exquisite cloth from our Fox Brother's archive, we have received numerous requests to bring this piece 'back alive' and into production... which has certainly been no mean feat! Following this popular demand, we have expertly woven it once again, to bring you a...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[ZRH1]

I am looking for the heaviest cachemire I can find for a dark navy overcoat, any suggestions? I tried Johnstons of Elgin.

 

[Wren]

First-ever post in this thread – copy/paste from a thread I started yesterday with a question I probably should've just asked here. I've already gotten some excellent suggestions there, but I wanted to post my q here for people that just go straight to this thread.


I'm doing a Liverano Ulster through The Armoury and would very much appreciate any suggestions as to bunches in very heavy weights (or otherwise very warm) suitable for the Minnesota winter.

[EDIT: Doesn't have to 50 oz . Could be mid-, or even low, 20s – depending on the weave/material. Just needs to be warm and windproof. And if it's -20°, I'm wearing my Cabourn Everest Parka anyway.]

The colors/patterns I'd be most interested in would include:

• wide herringbones in gray (mid all the way through charcoal, but with some contrast) and tan/beige/brown (on the desaturated side and not too red or gold – but, again, with some good contrast)
• solids with good texture and color variegation (think Donegal) in dark green, brown, warm gray, and navy

I'm agnostic as to type of material, texture, and finish – open to cloths as different as cashmere on one end and hairy tweed on the other – as long as they have interesting textures.

The only other requirement is something that drapes well and isn't too stiff, which probably excludes something like a melton.

Thanks to all in advance!

What about a navy casentino? Liverano talks about casentino in the kid dandy video, and he featured a very nice navy casentino coat.