Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Fraussie]

I'm going to commission a suit in Tokyo but it seems my tailor has rather limited choice when it comes to quality (not luxury) British worsted wools. Can't get my hands on Botany, Steadfast, Royal Classics, H Lesser 13... They seem to have more choice in Italian (and French, with Dormeuil) fabrics. What would be the equivalent in Italian/French fabrics of a Botany for example?

 

[lordsuperb]

I'm going to commission a suit in Tokyo but it seems my tailor has rather limited choice when it comes to quality (not luxury) British worsted wools. Can't get my hands on Botany, Steadfast, Royal Classics, H Lesser 13... They seem to have more choice in Italian (and French, with Dormeuil) fabrics. What would be the equivalent in Italian/French fabrics of a Botany for example?

Draper's 5 Star or Dormeuil Royal 12

 

[kolecho]

I'm going to commission a suit in Tokyo but it seems my tailor has rather limited choice when it comes to quality (not luxury) British worsted wools. Can't get my hands on Botany, Steadfast, Royal Classics, H Lesser 13... They seem to have more choice in Italian (and French, with Dormeuil) fabrics. What would be the equivalent in Italian/French fabrics of a Botany for example?

Steadfast is gone, at least for now.

 

[ericgereghty]

If you’re not opposed to Mohair, Tonik 2000 is a gorgeous Cloth.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thinking about a Russel plaid, can it work for a big guy given the larger pattern? Does anyone with a bigger frame have one to post? I am not so concerned about being able to pull it off, but rather how it looks on a larger jacket. There are tons of images out there of jackets in sizes 38-40's but nothing in a larger cut.
View attachment 1071799

Thanks in advance,

DL-

Is that P&H Hartwist? FWIW, there are two versions in there, one a pale tan and the other a deeper yellow. I think they're both hard to wear (I'm a size 37 chest), but the deeper yellow is a little easier. They're both very loud and heavy plaids though. I like mine, but most people will not look upon you as though you were George Frazier, but more as an old man, possibly with Paul Manafort-level of taste.

 

[jonathanS]

Draper's 5 Star or Dormeuil Royal 12

Are they still making royal 12? Or did they change it to Royal 11? Question on Royal 12, is Royal 12 12 oz? vs. Royal 11 11 oz?

 

[mactire]

Thinking about a Russel plaid, can it work for a big guy given the larger pattern? Does anyone with a bigger frame have one to post? I am not so concerned about being able to pull it off, but rather how it looks on a larger jacket. There are tons of images out there of jackets in sizes 38-40's but nothing in a larger cut.
View attachment 1071799

Thanks in advance,

DL-

As a bit of a Sidney Greenstreet myself I think you've got to own it, dressing in plain colours to try minimise your size is a bit of a fool's errand I think. Where is the above check from?

 

[forex]

Thinking about a Russel plaid, can it work for a big guy given the larger pattern? Does anyone with a bigger frame have one to post? I am not so concerned about being able to pull it off, but rather how it looks on a larger jacket. There are tons of images out there of jackets in sizes 38-40's but nothing in a larger cut.
View attachment 1071799

Thanks in advance,

DL-

I have a length of Russel plaid I’m looking to move, it looks the same as the one in the pic, maybe the same book and fabric. Let me know.

 

[DavidLane]

Is that P&H Hartwist? FWIW, there are two versions in there, one a pale tan and the other a deeper yellow. I think they're both hard to wear (I'm a size 37 chest), but the deeper yellow is a little easier. They're both very loud and heavy plaids though. I like mine, but most people will not look upon you as though you were George Frazier, but more as an old man, possibly with Paul Manafort-level of taste.

Thank you for the advice Derek. This one is vintage from the 80’s so no options on color. I am okay being considered old, just wondering how the pattern might look.

As a bit of a Sidney Greenstreet myself I think you've got to own it, dressing in plain colours to try minimise your size is a bit of a fool's errand I think. Where is the above check from?

I agree, I am a big guy no matter what I am wearing, just wanted to see how this might look on a bigger cut jacket. Can’t remember the name off hand.

I have a length of Russel plaid I’m looking to move, it looks the same as the one in the pic, maybe the same book and fabric. Let me know.

I am all set but thank you for your offer.

DL-

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gentlemen,

Re: Corduroy of Italian provenance

I stopped by my cloth suppliers today and had a thorough look at the Zegna corduroy bunches, thus some minor corrections in my recent, pertinent post need to be made:

There are two different offerings in the winter cotton bunch:
a) cotton 100% at 300grams, and
b) cotton 98%, elastane 2% at 350grams (so there is elastane after all).

"Cashco" line: cotton 91%, cashmere 8%, lycra 1%.

Although I asked no prices, I do know that there is a significant price difference between the two basic lines and Cashco, but gentlemen I have to admit now, being fresh in my mind, that the latter is a totally different being... and I did compare LP and Ariston propositions as well.

Perhaps, a position would be as follows: everyday odd trousers, go with one of the basic lines (or LP, Ariston for that matter), SC or suit aspiring a certain aesthetic, one has to consider upgrading to "Cashco" in a "go big or go home" spirit; fabric quality, color shades, hand have to be checked in person!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[lordsuperb]

Dear Gentlemen,

Re: Corduroy of Italian provenance

I stopped by my cloth suppliers today and had a thorough look at the Zegna corduroy bunches, thus some minor corrections in my recent, pertinent post need to be made:

There are two different offerings in the winter cotton bunch:
a) cotton 100% at 300grams, and
b) cotton 98%, elastane 2% at 350grams (so there is elastane after all).

"Cashco" line: cotton 91%, cashmere 8%, lycra 1%.

Although I asked no prices, I do know that there is a significant price difference between the two basic lines and Cashco, but gentlemen I have to admit now, being fresh in my mind, that the latter is a totally different being... and I did compare LP and Ariston propositions as well.

Perhaps, a position would be as follows: everyday odd trousers, go with one of the basic lines (or LP, Ariston for that matter), SC or suit aspiring a certain aesthetic, one has to consider upgrading to "Cashco" in a "go big or go home" spirit; fabric quality, color shades, hand have to be checked in person!

Cheers,

Dimitris

Maybe cashmere corduroy will be the next thing the LL improves.

 

[mactire]

I have a length of Russel plaid I’m looking to move, it looks the same as the one in the pic, maybe the same book and fabric. Let me know.

Forex can you PM me details of it seeing as DavidLane is all set?

 

[lordsuperb]

Forex can you PM me details of it seeing as DavidLane is all set?

http://www.haggarts1801.com/tweedbymetre/haggarts-ettrick-sporting-tweed-879-tweed

 

[lordsuperb]

So I sold out and ordered a brown jacket.....

 

[DavidLane]

So I sold out and ordered a brown jacket.....

It’s alright @lordsuperb we all make mistakes.

DL-