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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    What if tailors had a return policy like Nordstroms, how many suits would you return?
     

  2. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    SW Botany 3558 Hopsack. Excellent fabric. Used it for a DB Blazer

    Alan Bee
    15C7A576-8CA5-4F58-B49A-DB6D97703707.jpeg 22A204A3-7290-4A0C-A4E2-2334D5151705.jpeg F64C25E7-3167-4343-82AA-C69B25780923.jpeg
     

  3. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Who says you can’t use Hopsack for a suit?

    Lesser 13 Hopsack 3 pc suit

    Alan Bee

    919C971F-BEF3-4291-911C-C9FD84246FA6.jpeg

    02981E23-313E-44A6-BE49-96770C472243.jpeg
     

  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

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    :plain::puzzled:
     

  5. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    Thanks for your post, Dimitris. I was searching for corduroy earlier this year and gave up; I think I will try again and consider the Cashco.

    However, each time I say that cloth aloud, it comes out as “cash cow,” which may seem fitting condidering the likely price.
     

  6. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior Member

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  7. DavidLane

    DavidLane Distinguished Member

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    If basing this on cloth alone maybe 1-2. If we’re basing it off of fit, I would say 4-5. I made a lot of mistakes early on and while it sucks, I am glad I went through it. It was mostly the tailor that was the problem, as I tried to cut corners.

    I like the process of finding cloth and I typically sit on a length for a year or more. If it doesn’t appeal to me anymore, I can just sell it and avoid the regret. I have probably sold 4-5 lengths over the years and while I do take a hit, it’s not as bad as a poorly chosen suit I can’t return.

    I do still love brown though.

    DL-
     

  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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  9. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

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    Dear @dan'l

    Well, you need to pronounce it in an "abrupt" manner, it will become natural when you receive the bill...!!!

    At any rate, there are at least four color offerings in the brown, brown-beige territory that worth the investment: in a philosophical way you may eventually see the future garment as a "cash-cow", the only difference being, that it will not generate cash per se, but pleasure to its owner; this, sometimes may lead to cash!

    Best,

    Dimitris
     

  10. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior Member

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    Dear @Alan Bee,

    I very much like both garments, I think that they absolutely suit you.

    A small question if you please, have you - via your tailor - altered in any way (width, height) the lapel of the DB jacket? By memory, I have the impression that the lapels of your DB suits / jackets that you posted in the past were more "generous".

    Nevertheless, they are really nice, enjoy them in health.

    Cheers,

    Dimitris

    EDIT:
    After a second, more careful look, I strongly advice you to reconsider the size of your trousers' cuffs; you are not a small-sized gentleman, and these cuffs are quite small. Especially the grey trousers, though being very well coordinated with the navy DB jacket, they function as odd ones here and due to the color difference, they pronounce it! I sincerely believe that you should go for 5cm trousers' cuffs or even a bit bigger until proportionality is achieved.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2018

  11. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    @aristoi bcn

    Hopsack at this weight (13oz) is not a very open weave. Certainly not as porous as Fresco. It is more the weave that sets it apart from other Worsteds (twill/serge). I wouldn’t consider it for a summer blazer just because it is woven more openly than those mentioned above.

    But I prefer the look, touch and feel. It just looks more refined and modern to my eyes and has the subtle texture that sets it apart from a Worsted suit coat. Serge or twill looks more anachronistic by comparison.

    Regarding close ups, I may have to do another shoot for a proper close up.

    Alan Bee
     

  12. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    @Bespoke DJP

    Hi Dimitris,

    Re: Lapels. Surely you have a very good eye. For my most recent project, I decided on more classical proportions. Meaning a bit less aggressive.

    In the main, I modified the lapels to more classic (smaller) proportions while cutting the coats with a bit more room (drape) in the chest and extra girth in the waist compared to my prior projects.

    The end results do a better job at “masking” my otherwise very muscular physique.

    But I still enjoy the aggressive lapels which were mostly confined to casual (less conservative) suits and coats.

    Your comment on trousers cuffs: You make a fair point. I may even consider doing away with them altother and just going cuffless for dressier suit pants.

    Alan Bee
     

  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    That's a lot of suits with fit issues. I think I would've stopped using the tailor after the second suit. How was it the tailors fault if you tried to cut corners?

    I've one suit from a fit perspective that I wish I could return. The tailor narrowed the shoulders way too much from the initial fitting and had my shoulders bursting out at the seems. He wasn't able to fix the problem when he let the shoulders back out. It took me 2.5 years to realize he will never be able to fix the problem. Sigh.


    From a cloth perspective I would return 3 flannel suits and one hopsack suit. So I guess the opposite for me. Flannel is beautiful but I sweat like crazy whenever I wear the outfits. These offices turn the heat on full blast now of days. SCHWEDDY BALLS.
     

  14. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    I cant imagine an Italan suit without cuffs. I would just make them 5cm like Demitris recommended.
     

  15. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    I guess you weren't apart of the discussion when I mentioned some of brown are tricky for me. I feel like some browns are too matchy matchy with my skin.
     

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