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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Some Carlo Barbera for H.Lesser 12/13 oz which I absolutely have no use for. Too heavy for use in South East Asia.
    [​IMG]

    (Image borrowed from NYRanger's post)

    [​IMG]

    For this, the 26070 and 26072 is available.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2012
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Lot of people seem to think this is now a B&S thread [​IMG]
     
  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Now sitting in the wardarobe until the winter when I will probably commision a 2 pcs suit, H lesser Tropical in 8-9 Ozs, I believe soon to be discontinued (not in the current book but still on their website):

    [​IMG]
     
  4. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Senior member

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    A quick question on cloth buying - do you find it saves money to buy cloth yourself and then take it to a tailor, or does your tailor generally buy at lower prices?

    I would like to get a couple of things made in Autumn and at the best price possible.
     
  5. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Depends on the cloth and on the tailor. Generally, it will be less expensive if the tailor orders the cloth. They don't pay VAT, and usually have a running account with the cloth merchant, meaning that they enjoy discounts as they're larger customers. In other words, for most easily available/standard suiting and jacketing cloth, it doesn't make sense to go CMT.

    However, if you are looking for something specific from a merchant your tailor doesn't carry, or you have a length of vintage/special fabric (eBay's often good for this), CMT is your only option. Also, crowd-sourced initiatives like the London Lounge Cloth Club and our own special brown Fresco require CMT.

    Last thing: don't be fixated on the best price possible. You also want quality, but perhaps most importantly, if you're trickling into the bespoke fold, you'll need to develop a relationship of mutual respect with your tailor. If he doesn't feel respect for his craft, it'll show in the workmanship.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    It all depends on how much your tailor charges for CMT and what you pay for the cloths.
     
  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Nothing wrong with that as you'll at least target the people who are actually interested in buying cloth...
     
  8. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    so it'll be 97 degrees in NYC tomorrow, great time to start to think about some denim cashmere!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Well, I disagree. The best threads on this board often go into freefall when members simply don't follow the rules. In my mind, this thread is not meant for displaying 2"x3" swatches of cloth you want to offload.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Agree to disagree but given the number of members who actually contribute to this thread, the chances of it going into freefall because of some members wanting to offload their lengths is minimal.
     
  11. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    +1. This is the better place to sell and buy cloth. Cloth sale threads get lost very quickly on the B/S board.
     
  12. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    I would be more concerned about ugly cloth being posted, TBH.
     
  13. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Senior member

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    Great post, thank you !
     
  14. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Well, I apologise if this is against the rules. Just wanted to share some extremely good cloth as I know there are a lot of fans of the Carlo Barbera for H.Lesser stuff. At least I know the contributors of this thread will appreciate it.

    And swatches are more easy to display. Not very practical to show all 40 meters for each design [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    The cost savings are not great against:

    1. the extra time spent buying the cloth in a cloth shop (figure a half a day); and
    2. trial and error.

    It's a bit chancey buying cloth over the internet. You may get stuck with some which you would have passed-on if you saw and handled it in a cloth shop.

    Also, in a tailor's shop you can compare the color, texture, weight, and hand of varous cloth samples. If you want "navy", you should have many choices. You cannot do this on eBay.

    When you buy "end bolts" in a cloth store you take the chance of there being an imperfection which you might not be able to discern. You have to carefully inspect the goods.

    I would recommend cloth shopping only to the hobbyist. Shopping in a cloth store, such as Tip Top, can be enjoyable if you like to rumage and see different cloths. Many of the cloths may no longer be in production or be readily available at the tailor. Tip Top gets end bolts, and often it is first quality cloth. Also, you can view and handle full lengths as compared to a 3 by 4 swatch in a book.

    I have found that there is no real cost savings buying at an end bolt store. My tailors give me a good deal on cloths out of the regular inventory, such as Holland & Sherry and Loro Piana.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would like to make a suit out of that stuff.
     
  17. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    Sportcoat material from hfwltd.

    8½oz–9oz (240g–250g)
    Beige
    Gun Club Check

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ Nice - is that from the Riviera book?
     
  19. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I think I have this same one currently being made up, it is more yellow in real life. Very soft fabric, from Riviera bunch.
     
  20. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    Yes gentlemen, you are right, it is from the Riviera bunch.

    Several meters are left for a nice price: http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=dsc&c=4&p=1
     

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