Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]



Anybody know of a source for the old H. Lesser 9.5/10 oz. Lightweight Fine Worsted?
Plain weave/panama.
Thanks.

You will be a popular guy in some quarters if you figure that out. The last time I saw it in a book was over 10 years ago, and by then all that were left were the really dull, elderly patterns best suited to a Pythonesque chartered accountant.

Your closest equivalent may well be Harrisons Frontier, but partisans will insist on the Lesser superiority.

 

[xizenta]

What kind of interlining have you guys used on commissioned fresco/crispaire jackets?

I ordered a full canvas jacket from a new operation a few months ago and just went to the first fitting. I noticed the interlining they were using was black, which is not something I am used to. When I asked about it, they said it was a 100% wool canvas made in Italy and used by Brioni and Zegna (sounds like marketing bs). They said that they couldn't use the typical natural colored canvas because it would show through the fresco weave.

I'm not sure I'm OK without using a canvas with any horsehair content. Also, ironically, they were still using horsehair canvas for the collar. I would be really uncomfortable asking them to redo the canvassing at this point (even though it appears that they have done it the lazy way, by machine).

But I'm curious whether anyone here has experience with this type of interfacing.

 

[lordsuperb]



What kind of interlining have you guys used on commissioned fresco/crispaire jackets?

I ordered a full canvas jacket from a new operation a few months ago and just went to the first fitting. I noticed the interlining they were using was black, which is not something I am used to. When I asked about it, they said it was a 100% wool canvas made in Italy and used by Brioni and Zegna (sounds like marketing bs). They said that they couldn't use the typical natural colored canvas because it would show through the fresco weave.

I'm not sure I'm OK without using a canvas with any horsehair content. Also, ironically, they were still using horsehair canvas for the collar. I would be really uncomfortable asking them to redo the canvassing at this point (even though it appears that they have done it the lazy way, by machine).

But I'm curious whether anyone here has experience with this type of interfacing.

This is done so you won't see the interlining through the fabric.

 

[xizenta]



This is done so you won't see the interlining through the fabric.

I understand that. That's what the tailor said and I am inclined to believe it.

Have you done this? Are you familiar with this type of wool lining? Can you speak to its qualities versus horsehair? Can a horsehair canvas not be dyed to a darker color?

 

[lordsuperb]

I don't own a porous suit, fresco, nor do I plan on owning one.

 

[coolpapa]

It's common, you're overthinking it, unclench and relax.

 

[PCK1]

Anyone have any recommendations on a blue/navy wool herringbone fall/winter weight?

 

[Isolation]

I have a jacket made up in the Dugdale Whiterose Caldonaire that is one of my favorites. 13oz but feels quite substantial.

 

[dieworkwear]

Both of my frescos are built like that. I don't notice any difference, aside from the fact that the canvas doesn't show through.

 

[sprout2]

I demand horse's hair!!

 

[lordsuperb]

Does fresco really keep you cool?

 

[Murlsquirl]

Yes

 

[hymo]

Everything in that picture is the same as on any fully canvassed jacket, only it has been dyed black.

 

[venividivicibj]

its pretty common.

 

[Cantabrigian]



Does fresco really keep you cool?

Yessir