Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Hampton, Feb 24, 2013.
I'm not sure but just know the cloth doesn't have a good hand compared to other suits in its general price range like Kiton or even Zegna itself. If you get it on deep discount then that's great, but at full price which I believe is $4K and up if I remember correctly, you could get a very nice peak lapel suit made by an exceptional tailor. Maybe you would pay 20% higher for the tailored suit but you would get better fabric, a better fit, and even more exclusivity.
As for exclusivity, I think it becomes a meritocracy once you walk out the door.
Yes and no. This is where it gets a bit tricky, The fabric is from Zegna but they are exclusive to TF, meaning you cannot go into Zegna and request them to make you a TF suit, because besides the fabric the patterns are also exclusive to TF, and by patterns i do mean the wide lapel, milanese button hole etc that we are used to seeing from TF. Now onto the Zegna Couture remark, i never quite figured this out, i was always under the impression that Zegna Coture was made in a separate factory than the regular line. TF on the other hand although made to Zegna couture standards is made in Zegna's factory on the border between switzerland and italy which is why some have a made in italy tag while others have a made in switzerland, which side of the border the suit/blazer/etc is finished in determines what it will say on the "made in" tag. (i have yet to see a Zegna Couture that is made in switzerland). I could be wrong about this and my memory is a bit hazy but i remember reading that Zegna Couture was made somewhere near naples hence the original name "napoli couture" which if you look at a map is nowhere near switzerland so using logic they are from different factories. Again i must state i might be wrong about the Zegna Couture part but maybe someone more familiar with Zegna Couture can clarify.
P.S in regards to the TF items, there is no difference between the made in switzerland and italy items. They are from the same factory made by the same people, the only reason their tags are different is for legal reasons. This is opposed to lets say Zegna mainline which although can be made in the swiss/italy factory also can come from their factory in spain
If I'm not mistaken their grey 3 piece basic base a (the one we are used to seeing) is about 4.2k. The James bond ones are 3 something. I do agree that Kiton has much better fabrics but i really wouldn't put them in the same price range, TF is 3-6k while kiton starts at around 7k last time i checked. As for you comment on going to a tailor i completely agree especially if you are using tailors in the TF price range, my bespoke suit from steed fits much better than my MTO from TF and I'm sure less people have heard of/use Steed so its def more exclusive. But walking around in it just feels like you are wearing a beautifully tailored suit. TF on the other hand feels like you are walking around with a big middle finger painted on yourself. Could be just a brand thing but you have to admit brands do have an effect on people even the wearer himself.
True, kiton is more expensive but maybe the cipa line is closer. While the fabric on the cipa is not as nice as normal kiton I found it better than TF. In any event, at this level it is about personal style I guess. You gotta hand it to Ford. He's killing it.
I find it depends on the particular cloth. Although none of the cloths are extremely fine (think dormeuil luxury range) I found some of them have fairly nice hand and finish for their grade and there are some more striking patterns. In all you are paying for the styling which is quite different than any zegna line. This is a look which is very distinctive and NOT easily found elsewhere even bespoke.
That video was great, Thanks for posting
Cipa if you are able to find it (I've only seen it at bergdorfs) still also starts at about 5k which is a higher starting point than TF. Don't get me wrong i love my Kiton suits they are the closest thing to "weightless" jackets i have but their cuts just don't do it for me when compared to TF. But in all fairness if i had to pick and use just one brand to use everyday it probably would be Kiton just because they are so dam comfortable and the fabrics are out of this world Actually come to think about it even though i do come here and preach about TF i probably own more things from Kiton than TF lol
They have cipa at neiman. i respect Kiton, love and purchase their shirts, but can't bring myself to pay that pricepoint for an OTR suit. I enjoy going through the bespoke process too much. I admit though, Kiton suits are very comfortable.
Maybe I can find a good $2k OTR brand. I recall belvest making a very nice suit at a decent price.
Great video. A Fascinating talent he is.
After mom, dad and my dog. I love Tom Ford.
Actually the "classic" TF look we are used to it really a hodge podge of the various SR houses. I believe he had suits made at the various firms and took the details he liked the best and combined them i.e the slanted shoulder seam from A&S, the shoulder line/built up chest from Huntsman (i might be mistaken on this one), and the styling from edward sexton. If you look at the styling of Tommy Nutter suits (edward sexton) and ignore the slanted shoulder seam/milanese button hole/ 5 button cuffs etc you can see where he got his inspiration from.
This is Edward Sexton/Tommy nutter
This is TF
He does, if I'm not mistaken their headquarters is in london, i think in that video posted it shows that even their design team is based there
Separate names with a comma.