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pmeis

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Gentleman,

I was hoping for a little advice.
Background: I have inherited a few watches, none of which seem to fit our lifestyle/wants/needs. My wife and I have decided to move on from these and use the proceeds to start fresh. While we determine how best to move these watches and determine our budget for future purchases, I have started doing research so we will be ready.
Our plan is to each end up with one daily wearer and one dress watch.
For my dress watch I am thinking of going with a very simple SS watch with Alligator band. I have found four similar dress watches I like n the $4,000 to $8,000 range.
  1. IWC Portofino (40mm), (IW356501), MSRP $4,700
  2. Omega Deville Tresor (40mm), (435-13-40-21-02-001), MSRP $6,500
  3. Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Ultrathin (39mm), (1218420), MSRP $7,650
  4. Ulysse Nardin Classico Manfacturer (40 mm), (3203-136-2/30), MSRP $8,300

I believe that all of these could easily be worn with a suit but would also work well with trousers and a sweater or sportcoat if I wanted to wear it to the office.
I would like to purchase new if possible but I have no problem going with a grey dealer if I can save significant money. Initial research indicates each of these watches can be found discounted at a grey dealer (the UN with significant discount.)
This discussion does not involve similar price point watches: Reverso, Tank, or Rolex OP (assuming I could even get one in SS) as these will most likely be heavy players for my wife’s dress watch.
Appreciate any information or advise you can give me regarding these watches or brands overall. I would also be interested in additional options you may have.

Thank you
Depending on how big your wrist is, I find a thin 40mm dress watch to wear a bit awkward. I owned the blue dial DeVille Tresor last year and while I greatly enjoyed the dial treatment and the movement view, it just seemed to big for what it was. My other less dressy watches at the time were also 40mm and it just came off strange that my dress watch in some ways wore the same or even larger (thanks to the almost all dial design) than my sportier pieces.
 

mak1277

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Gentleman,

I was hoping for a little advice.
Background: I have inherited a few watches, none of which seem to fit our lifestyle/wants/needs. My wife and I have decided to move on from these and use the proceeds to start fresh. While we determine how best to move these watches and determine our budget for future purchases, I have started doing research so we will be ready.
Our plan is to each end up with one daily wearer and one dress watch.
For my dress watch I am thinking of going with a very simple SS watch with Alligator band. I have found four similar dress watches I like n the $4,000 to $8,000 range.
  1. IWC Portofino (40mm), (IW356501), MSRP $4,700
  2. Omega Deville Tresor (40mm), (435-13-40-21-02-001), MSRP $6,500
  3. Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Ultrathin (39mm), (1218420), MSRP $7,650
  4. Ulysse Nardin Classico Manfacturer (40 mm), (3203-136-2/30), MSRP $8,300

I believe that all of these could easily be worn with a suit but would also work well with trousers and a sweater or sportcoat if I wanted to wear it to the office.
I would like to purchase new if possible but I have no problem going with a grey dealer if I can save significant money. Initial research indicates each of these watches can be found discounted at a grey dealer (the UN with significant discount.)
This discussion does not involve similar price point watches: Reverso, Tank, or Rolex OP (assuming I could even get one in SS) as these will most likely be heavy players for my wife’s dress watch.
Appreciate any information or advise you can give me regarding these watches or brands overall. I would also be interested in additional options you may have.

Thank you
If you had said you wanted the blue dialed Tresor, that would've been my pick.


As it is, I would go for the JLC out of your list of four. I don't love it, though. If you haven't already, you should check out Montblanc.


I know the movement isn't in the same league as the JLC, but this is a handsome watch for much less coin.
 

dauster

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Gentleman,

I was hoping for a little advice.
Background: I have inherited a few watches, none of which seem to fit our lifestyle/wants/needs. My wife and I have decided to move on from these and use the proceeds to start fresh. While we determine how best to move these watches and determine our budget for future purchases, I have started doing research so we will be ready.
Our plan is to each end up with one daily wearer and one dress watch.
For my dress watch I am thinking of going with a very simple SS watch with Alligator band. I have found four similar dress watches I like n the $4,000 to $8,000 range.
  1. IWC Portofino (40mm), (IW356501), MSRP $4,700
  2. Omega Deville Tresor (40mm), (435-13-40-21-02-001), MSRP $6,500
  3. Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Ultrathin (39mm), (1218420), MSRP $7,650
  4. Ulysse Nardin Classico Manfacturer (40 mm), (3203-136-2/30), MSRP $8,300

I believe that all of these could easily be worn with a suit but would also work well with trousers and a sweater or sportcoat if I wanted to wear it to the office.
I would like to purchase new if possible but I have no problem going with a grey dealer if I can save significant money. Initial research indicates each of these watches can be found discounted at a grey dealer (the UN with significant discount.)
This discussion does not involve similar price point watches: Reverso, Tank, or Rolex OP (assuming I could even get one in SS) as these will most likely be heavy players for my wife’s dress watch.
Appreciate any information or advise you can give me regarding these watches or brands overall. I would also be interested in additional options you may have.

Thank you
Reach out to a grey dealer such as Takuya watches or OC Watch Guy and ask them for a trade. I am sure they can source watches you want if they dont have them:



EDIT: I would get a SS sports watch that's versatile such as the Daytona/ Omega Moonwatch or the new Zenith Daytona lookalike if I had to choose one watch only. You can wear these with suits but also with jeans and tshit
 
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officine

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  1. IWC Portofino (40mm), (IW356501), MSRP $4,700
  2. Omega Deville Tresor (40mm), (435-13-40-21-02-001), MSRP $6,500
  3. Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Ultrathin (39mm), (1218420), MSRP $7,650
  4. Ulysse Nardin Classico Manfacturer (40 mm), (3203-136-2/30), MSRP $8,300
I would go for the JLC MUT. If your budget were a little higher, I would vote for the moon phase version, ref. 1368420. That is a seriously beautiful watch.

I will also say that I am not familiar with many Ulysse Nardin pieces, so I looked up the one that you listed. That is a very nice piece. I almost never like Roman numerals on watches, but that one is very, very nice especially with the blue dial. Good luck with whatever you decide.
I'm a JLC man myself, but in this case I vote UN. My watchmaker owns it and has let me wear it. Stunningly beautiful blue dial.

As owner of two UNs, I've been very satisfied with finish and performance. It is the case that you will take a bath on resale (if that matters to you at all) if you purchase close to MSRP. Negotiate.

Can't go wrong with any of your choices. Good luck.
 

Woofa

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I'm a JLC man myself, but in this case I vote UN. My watchmaker owns it and has let me wear it. Stunningly beautiful blue dial.

As owner of two UNs, I've been very satisfied with finish and performance. It is the case that you will take a bath on resale (if that matters to you at all) if you purchase close to MSRP. Negotiate.

Can't go wrong with any of your choices. Good luck.
I was just watching a review of the blue grand feu dial and it does look really nice. Gonna try and stop by a local shop to see one in person.
 

pmeis

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Reporting back from the Short Hills Hermés boutique. I called them on Thursday to see if they knew anything about the new watch and the sales woman had no clue but promised she would inquire and get back to me. About an hour later she came back and said she had two of the plain titanium ones, one with the orange rubber strap and one with the black rubber. She asked if I’d like to arrange an appointment to come check one out and even though I wasn’t able to get in until today, she didn’t have any issue holding it for me, so I asked her to hold the black rubber one. I will likely ultimately get the orange rubber strap and possibly the blue fabric, but for some reason I wanted to get the black strap to start. I did ask if the other watch was still there so that I could check it out, but it was already sold.

The watch turns out to be what I had been hoping for. Interestingly finished and shaped case. Mostly brushed with two areas of high polish. One that is obvious from the pics, the bevel around and the squarish bezel and one area that I hadn’t noticed before. There is a downward sloped bevel surrounding the crystal that is polished and gives the watch just a bit of extra interest.

The dial has an interesting texture to it and I like the visual break up that the hour track provides. The font is cool and the applied, lumed numerals are something that I’ve been looking for on a watch for a long time but had not found anything that I liked with this that was within my price range (the steel Calatrava Pilot watch that was released a couple years back really kicked off my desire for this).

The rubber strap is really nice quality compared to other ones I’ve had experience with, plenty supple, but not flimsy. One killer feature that the press didn’t mention is the nature of the deployant clasp. It’s also titanium and actually echoes the case/bezel of the watch. It’s got a couple other nice surprises. They went and rounded the edges that come in contact with your skin. This has been a pain point for me with deployant clasps before. Even more insteresting, the clasp acutally has a built in micro adjustment of about 4 or 5mm, about the distance between the strap holes. So basically, if you find yourself in between the holes on the strap, you can easily adjust it to be perfect, essentially offering unlimited adjustability as long as your wrist falls between the shortest and longest strap holes.

Nitpicks:
*I find the crown a little smaller and a therefore a bit harder to manipulate than I’d like, but that will only be an occasional annoyance.
*If this was a mm smaller, I wouldn’t be mad, but it fits better than some other watches I had been considering
*I’d rather have no date than a 4:30 date, but I don’t think a 6 o’clock date would have been better. I do appreciate that they carried the dial font over to the date window. Regardless, it’s subtle enough not to really bother me.
*Generally I am not a fan of dials with the radial flip of the consecutive numerals. I’m not sure why this doesn’t bother me here, maybe its the funky font choice, but it doesn’t.

For reference, other watches I had been considering, though not all would have served a similar purpose:
  • Cartier Santos ADLC Bezel
  • GO SeaQ in blue
  • Octo Finnissimo
  • GO Senator Excellence
  • Grand Seiko SBGK009
  • Grand Seiko SBGW259
I had pledged to myself this year that I wouldn’t buy any watches. I had a core four pieces that I thought represented cohesive, we rounded group. After living with essentially just the four pieces all year, it was clear that one of them wasn’t holding it’s own weight for me, a Grand Seiko SBGA429, that while a fine watch, just did not enthuse me like my other three. This will be taking it’s place and actually fits in quite well with the other three pieces, making this an easy decision.

TL;DR: I liked the watch and I bought it.


 

Ambulance Chaser

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Thanks for the review and pictures, @pmeis. I was hoping that you would say that the watch was disappointing in the metal and that you kept your credit card in your wallet, but no such luck. I don't know what I'm going to do with this watch and the Ming launch later this week. (Cue "Why not both" gif.) I was thinking about the graphene, but I'm not sure it's worth the more than $3,000 premium over this watch, which looks great. Hermes seems to have a hit on its hands that's going to be difficult to find, but I can afford to be patient and wait.

Did the sales associate tell you how much the orange strap would cost and how long it would take to come in?
 

TheFoo

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After catching-up on the new Calatrava today, I went back to examine my 5296. I really wish they had not done the hobnail bezel or gussied up the dial. I guess I should just be happy to hold onto what I’ve got!

A new version of the 5296 without the date window — now that would have made me jealous.

0941219F-3050-43C6-B891-EF635392D8D8.jpeg
 

George Red

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After catching-up on the new Calatrava today, I went back to examine my 5296. I really wish they had not done the hobnail bezel or gussied up the dial. I guess I should just be happy to hold onto what I’ve got!

A new version of the 5296 without the date window — now that would have made me jealous.

View attachment 1591934
I miss my 5296R, but I love the new releases. May get one.
 

TheFoo

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I miss my 5296R, but I love the new releases. May get one.
I’m not hot on them. The date read-out on the new perpetual calendar may be a feat, but it’s very un-Patek in that it’s all jammed together and not very pleasant to read. If there were three separate windows, one for each date element, I’d feel quite different.

The new Calatrava is not a total travesty or anything, but there is an awful lot of jumbled window dressing: the hobnail bezel, the railroad minute track, the gold trim around the seconds sub-dial, etc. Hate to say it, but it almost looks like a knock-off, what with the jumble of elements. Pateks are at their best when they don’t look like they’re trying particularly hard to get your attention.

The steel annual calendar doesn’t look like a Patek at all. Could be a Fossil. Not a fan.
 

Omega Male

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I’m not hot on them. The date read-out on the new perpetual calendar may be a feat, but it’s very un-Patek in that it’s all jammed together and not very pleasant to read. If there were three separate windows, one for each date element, I’d feel quite different.

The new Calatrava is not a total travesty or anything, but there is an awful lot of jumbled window dressing: the hobnail bezel, the railroad minute track, the gold trim around the seconds sub-dial, etc. Hate to say it, but it almost looks like a knock-off, what with the jumble of elements. Pateks are at their best when they don’t look like they’re trying particularly hard to get your attention.

The steel annual calendar doesn’t look like a Patek at all. Could be a Fossil. Not a fan.
The Clous de Paris is Marmite, you like it or you don't. But it's completely authentic to Patek. I agree the more traditional railroad track and more modern small seconds treatment don't really hang together consistently. Not perfect, not terrible.
 

edinatlanta

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Admittedly that doesn't spell out the reason why it's in bad taste, but do I have to?
Because people love shitting on other people for having fun when it doesn't impact them in anyway.
 

TheFoo

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The Clous de Paris is Marmite, you like it or you don't. But it's completely authentic to Patek. I agree the more traditional railroad track and more modern small seconds treatment don't really hang together consistently. Not perfect, not terrible.
The hobnail pattern is from the 70’s and looks that way. The predominant Calatrava design since the 30’s has been guided by Bauhaus simplicity.
 

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