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chocomallo

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I’m not hot on them. The date read-out on the new perpetual calendar may be a feat, but it’s very un-Patek in that it’s all jammed together and not very pleasant to read. If there were three separate windows, one for each date element, I’d feel quite different.

The new Calatrava is not a total travesty or anything, but there is an awful lot of jumbled window dressing: the hobnail bezel, the railroad minute track, the gold trim around the seconds sub-dial, etc. Hate to say it, but it almost looks like a knock-off, what with the jumble of elements. Pateks are at their best when they don’t look like they’re trying particularly hard to get your attention.

The steel annual calendar doesn’t look like a Patek at all. Could be a Fossil. Not a fan.
False. It is a total travesty for all of the reasons you point out. But you miss the biggest offense--the hands. The rest of the watch, while a mishmash, is still Patek. These hands look like they are borrowed from Vacheron and lose all of the beauty of the classic Patek sword hands. This watch sucks bad.
 

monkey66

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Cartier definitely has an aesthetic and doesn’t try to reinvent the wheel with its designs. That watch could just as easily fit into their line up today.
There is a lot to say for timeless designs. This watch gives me just as much happiness now as it did 20 years ago.

It appears they no longer do this (large/automatic/Guilloche dial) version in SS, only SS/Gold although they do many other variants of the Tank Française. If memory serves it is a modified ETA movement?
 

gomestar

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Forvm recs needed: a Cartier for $10K or less.

Would be a piece to keep around. Use case undetermined.
 

gomestar

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no details on purpose. 10 year wedding anniv. idea and we both have Cartier rings.

i should probably look for that ring, i think it was expensive.
 

Ambulance Chaser

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If you're in the market for something more dressy, I love the Drive Extra Flat.
 

radicaldog

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For me, I fear that I've waited too long to buy this watch, because I think (without trying it on yet) that I like the new Hermes more.
In a way, Hermes are trying to do the sort of innovative design Cartier started doing a century ago. It's not clear they're succeeding but one could take a punt on them. Both are brands one buys for the design more than for anything else.

Also, I happen to think they'd both have more design integrity if they used cutting edge quartz movements rather than pander to the mechanical middlebrow snobbery, but that's by the by. Hermes has a chance to stand out there and they're not grabbing it because much of their clientele is what it is, alas.
 

mak1277

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In a way, Hermes are trying to do the sort of innovative design Cartier started doing a century ago. It's not clear they're succeeding but one could take a punt on them. Both are brands one buys for the design more than for anything else.

Also, I happen to think they'd both have more design integrity if they used cutting edge quartz movements rather than pander to the mechanical middlebrow snobbery, but that's by the by. Hermes has a chance to stand out there and they're not grabbing it because much of their clientele is what it is, alas.
I suspect they might "stand out" but at the same time they would sell far fewer watches.

Seems like Cartier is certainly trying though with the solar powered quartz they just released. Be interesting to see if it's a hit or a miss for them.
 

Phileas Fogg

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There is a lot to say for timeless designs. This watch gives me just as much happiness now as it did 20 years ago.

It appears they no longer do this (large/automatic/Guilloche dial) version in SS, only SS/Gold although they do many other variants of the Tank Française. If memory serves it is a modified ETA movement?
probably. I think Cartier started making in house movements just within the past 10 years when that aspect of watchmaking became fetishized. Sort of the way avocado toast is to hipsters.
 

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