The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[inTROYspection]

Ordered a reverse stripe Oxford in the Archive sale. The fabric is more crisp, refined, and shiny than my other OCBDs from Drake's. Forgive the possible amateur nature of my question, but can someone tell me if there are different types of Oxford cloth? I know there can be different weights, but the texture of this particular shirt feels closer to a dress shirt.

 

[mbb355]

Final haul from the archive sale:

• Teddy polo coat
• Waxed linen D43 jacket
• Corduroy blanket blouson
• Surf breaker jacket
• Donegal integrated collar jumper
• Cashmere intarsia golf jumper

Regrettably they sent me the Teddy polo coat in a 42 (I ordered a 40) and it's a bit too large for me, so it's going to be going back. The D43 is a beautiful fabric, but the cut and the epaulettes don't suit me all that well, so that will be going back too.

Everything else was absolutely excellent, in particular the integrated collar jumper and the corduroy blanket blouson. The surf breaker surprised me, really nice cut and very practical.

Always liked the corduroy blouson, nice pick-up

 

[mbb355]

Ordered a reverse stripe Oxford in the Archive sale. The fabric is more crisp, refined, and shiny than my other OCBDs from Drake's. Forgive the possible amateur nature of my question, but can someone tell me if there are different types of Oxford cloth? I know there can be different weights, but the texture of this particular shirt feels closer to a dress shirt.

View attachment 1616937

I don't know precisely but I think the answer is yes. After all, there are "pinpoint" oxfords, which are lighter-weight and less textured than heavier, coarser oxfords. Oxfords vary plenty in weight and texture, and with those variations come differences in formality.

 

[hpreston]

Ordered a reverse stripe Oxford in the Archive sale. The fabric is more crisp, refined, and shiny than my other OCBDs from Drake's. Forgive the possible amateur nature of my question, but can someone tell me if there are different types of Oxford cloth? I know there can be different weights, but the texture of this particular shirt feels closer to a dress shirt.

View attachment 1616937

I don't know precisely but I think the answer is yes. After all, there are "pinpoint" oxfords, which are lighter-weight and less textured than heavier, coarser oxfords. Oxfords vary plenty in weight and texture, and with those variations come differences in formality.

The short answer is yes, there are several different types of Oxford cloth.

Longer answer, in general, the main types of Oxford cloth are; regular Oxford, pinpoint Oxford, royal Oxford. Each of these can be made in various weights by different mills, so the variety is nearly endless.

If you browse the archive sale, or search just for blue OCBD, you will see several slightly different versions from various seasons past, all with slightly different color of blue, and likely slight variations in weight due to suing cloth from different mills etc.

 

[inTROYspection]

The short answer is yes, there are several different types of Oxford cloth.

Longer answer, in general, the main types of Oxford cloth are; regular Oxford, pinpoint Oxford, royal Oxford. Each of these can be made in various weights by different mills, so the variety is nearly endless.

If you browse the archive sale, or search just for blue OCBD, you will see several slightly different versions from various seasons past, all with slightly different color of blue, and likely slight variations in weight due to suing cloth from different mills etc.

That's helpful.

I just looked at my order confirmation email again, and the word "Oxford" doesn't actually appear in the item description. It just says "Sky Blue Butchers Stripe Cotton Button-Down Shirt." Based on the picture I posted above, is it possible that the shirt isn't even an Oxford cloth?

 

[Loathing]

It looks like royal Oxford to me.

 

[hpreston]

What @Loathing said, it looks like royal Oxford.

Enjoy it.

 

[Trevallon]

Anyone else still waiting for archive orders? I ordered last Thursday but never received a confirmation email. Customer services confirmed the order was received and that Crosby St were handling it. As yet I have not received shipping confirmation and customer service say they have contacted Crosby street for an update without reply.
I’m not the type to become impatient but it’s a bit disconcerting when no one seems to know what’s going 8 days after ordering.

I placed my order on thursday and received it tuesday this week. But I got a confirmation email right after ordering. I have ordered twice from the archive sale and the handling and shipping has always been excellent and fast. With all the horror stories concerning the archive sale floating around, I guess I have been lucky.

 

[wahnamhong]

Ordered a reverse stripe Oxford in the Archive sale. The fabric is more crisp, refined, and shiny than my other OCBDs from Drake's. Forgive the possible amateur nature of my question, but can someone tell me if there are different types of Oxford cloth? I know there can be different weights, but the texture of this particular shirt feels closer to a dress shirt.

View attachment 1616937

That is actually a really nice shirt. The erratic nature of the archivesale, where things may come out differently than you had expected, can be positive as well. As mentioned already I thought I had ordered a sky blue cotton bengal stripe but received a bengal linen instead, which I like even more. Especially for the 100 euro I paid.

 

[wahnamhong]

Sad to report that the Brown, Green and Burgundy Houndstooth jacket is probably going back. The fit is impeccable, but unless I'm mistaken, the jacket is entirely uncanvassed. There's a 3x5" piece of what appears to be fusible interlining near the armpit area on the interior of the jacket and that's it.

It's one thing for a jacket like this to not have any canvassing but for Drake's to advertise "Half-Canvas Construction" is unacceptable, especially at the prices they charge. I'm curious if this design was a one-off or perhaps some of their other tweeds are made the same way but this lack of transparency leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

The Fawn Tuscan Tweed blazer which I returned was also uncanvassed. They are from the same season. I’ve only been buying Drake’s for 2-3 years or so, but I think they are just trying to offer some variability over the years. It would become boring if they would bring the same type of houndstooth blazer every autumn.

Same for the D-43 ‘sport’ jacket from this season. From what I’ve seen previous D-43s were mostly (waxed) linen, and now they have brought this more technical fabric. I can see how someone would see this new iteration as being inferior, but to me it’s a great change. I’m wearing mine quite a lot. And then if next season they bring back the waxed linen I might go for a blue one instead.

 

[Loathing]

That is actually a really nice shirt. The erratic nature of the archivesale, where things may come out differently than you had expected, can be positive as well. As mentioned already I thought I had ordered a sky blue cotton bengal stripe but received a bengal linen instead, which I like even more. Especially for the 100 euro I paid. View attachment 1617456

Did they actually ever sell this shirt in the main collection? I don’t remember seeing button down linen — it’s really very nice. Great find!

 

[kentpope]

The Fawn Tuscan Tweed blazer which I returned was also uncanvassed. They are from the same season. I’ve only been buying Drake’s for 2-3 years or so, but I think they are just trying to offer some variability over the years. It would become boring if they would bring the same type of houndstooth blazer every autumn.

Definitely agree that some variety is nice, but the least they can do is be transparent about it. Fabric is lovely and the fit is spot-on, but I have some reservations about how well it's going to age without any structure whatsoever. In some respects, it's more of a tweed overshirt that just happens to be cut like a blazer than a traditional tailored jacket.

Maybe someone who has more hands-on experience with tailoring can weigh in but I'm not sure I feel comfortable taking the risk on the jacket not holding up well over time. Which is a real shame as it's otherwise a lovely garment.

 

[Nat25]

What do ppl think of the belts at $275? Different / better made than the more affordable bridle leather belt options available? Thx.

Black Plaited Bridle Leather Belt with Brass Buckle

Made in England.

www.drakes.com

 

[wahnamhong]

Good question. The woven leather belt is very nice but feels a bit pricey.

 

[Shetterd]

What do ppl think of the belts at $275? Different / better made than the more affordable bridle leather belt options available? Thx.

Black Plaited Bridle Leather Belt with Brass Buckle

Made in England.

www.drakes.com

A while back someone recommended this as an alternative: https://www.ludwigschroeder.de/shop/herrenguertel/flechtguertel-marco-schwarz/