The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[Octobab]

How do you find the length and silhouette on the new raglans?

From tryng on myself, plus seeing them on multiple people around the city and at other events at Canal St, they're stunning. That giant loden pleat just works magic, proportions all around are perfect. They're just so damned expensive.

 

[LiamMcM]

An alternative to the Drake’s raglan coat is the Chrysalis Kensington coat. They go for about 1,200 USD. Pretty sure they used to make coats for Drake’s. Some shops offer MTO versions. E.g. Eddie Jacobs in Baltimore, MD offers that service

 

[garigo]

On the topic of alternatives, I am considering for the future to commission a raglan coat through Husbands in Paris. They have a similar dramatic silhouette and big pleat in the back, and offer an MTO program.

 

[thatboyo]

Fabric looks similar with the coat NMWA did. Not into the pleat and belt. One or the other is fine but not both. That back pic isn’t not it imo.

 

[hamish5178]

—scrutinizing tie designs for ages paid off, because raglans went from 40% off to $995 at some point yesterday morning before I checked out. I'm typically a 38 but went with a 40, mostly for sleeve length but I appreciate that it covers my knees as well. Body doesn't feel too big at all.

Fabric on the plaid one is very cool up close. Lots of texture and very lofty, very different from the denser/stiffer fabric on my other coat (DBF grandad).

 

[winston86dit]

That raglan looks great! Good price as well.

 

[wahnamhong]

On the topic of raglan coats. There seems to be quite some dichotomy in popularity: the navy, blackwatch and grey chequered one are all almost sold out, whereas the unicolour grey and the tweed gunclub are still available in all sizes. Do people think the gunclub cannot easily be combined? Or is it deemed to be too flashy?

 

[Nat25]

On the topic of raglan coats. There seems to be quite some dichotomy in popularity: the navy, blackwatch and grey chequered one are all almost sold out, whereas the unicolour grey and the tweed gunclub are still available in all sizes. Do people think the gunclub cannot easily be combined? Or is it deemed to be too flashy?

The solid grey was the best/most versatile/timesless in person in my opinion and that's the one I bought. I could have bought any of the colors. My guess would be they produced more of the solid grey coats but not sure.

 

[drentco]

—scrutinizing tie designs for ages paid off, because raglans went from 40% off to $995 at some point yesterday morning before I checked out. I'm typically a 38 but went with a 40, mostly for sleeve length but I appreciate that it covers my knees as well. Body doesn't feel too big at all.

View attachment 1741204

Fabric on the plaid one is very cool up close. Lots of texture and very lofty, very different from the denser/stiffer fabric on my other coat (DBF grandad).

View attachment 1741206

Were there any more of these in 42?

 

[wahnamhong]

So, how did you find the blackwatch and gunclub in real life? Supposing you have seen them all.

The navy being popular I get, it’s a timeless colour (though there are lots of navy coats, I have the Barbanera db one for example). I wanted to get a coat both to be worn over a navy suit but also over jeans. That is why initially I wanted to get a blackwatch but now I am thinking of the gunclub since the blackwatch is out of stock. Would the gunclub tweed coat match well with say a navy chalkstripe suit?

 

[Nat25]

So, how did you find the blackwatch and gunclub in real life? Supposing you have seen them all.

The navy being popular I get, it’s a timeless colour (though there are lots of navy coats, I have the Barbanera db one for example). I wanted to get a coat both to be worn over a navy suit but also over jeans. That is why initially I wanted to get a blackwatch but now I am thinking of the gunclub since the blackwatch is out of stock. Would the gunclub tweed coat match well with say a navy chalkstripe suit?

The grey is not a solid grey. It has flecking that gives it texture/depth, it feels more like a subtle herringbone or donegal. while they are both very nice, I didn't really love the black watch or gun club as a versatile every day jacket, which was what I was looking for.

 

[FlyingHorker]

On the topic of alternatives, I am considering for the future to commission a raglan coat through Husbands in Paris. They have a similar dramatic silhouette and big pleat in the back, and offer an MTO program.

View attachment 1741169 View attachment 1741170

Long back pleats add fullness in the wrong spot for Bals/Raglans, and the upper chest area in that coat lacks fullness. Combine it with a belt, and it creates a relatively feminine silhouette.

Nothing wrong with a feminine or A-line silhouette(normal for raglans), but the overall silhouette can still be improved.

I'd get rid of the back pleat altogether and add that fullness into the upper chest, then keep the belt.

@TheShetlandSweater is the one who pointed out to me that belted raglans have a lot of room to go wrong, he might have some other critiques or comments.

 

[Octobab]

On the topic of raglan coats. There seems to be quite some dichotomy in popularity: the navy, blackwatch and grey chequered one are all almost sold out, whereas the unicolour grey and the tweed gunclub are still available in all sizes. Do people think the gunclub cannot easily be combined? Or is it deemed to be too flashy?

My guess is that this is 100% to do with production volumes. Grey herringbone and gunclub are very popular in general right now across the board, and so were probably made in very large quantities.

The gunclub has seemed in person seemed to me to have a very lofty/soft hand that I'd be slightly worried about being too texturally similar to flannel (pretty sure it's melton wool, or something similar), but that's really just me being neurotic.

The color palette is relatively muted and warm, I wouldn't necessarily call it flashy, but also you're gonna be covering 80% of your body with a repeating pattern, so..

 

[Octobab]

Long back pleats add fullness in the wrong spot for Bals/Raglans, and the upper chest area in that coat lacks fullness. Combine it with a belt, and it creates a relatively feminine silhouette.

Nothing wrong with a feminine or A-line silhouette(normal for raglans), but the overall silhouette can still be improved.

I'd get rid of the back pleat altogether and add that fullness into the upper chest, then keep the belt.

@TheShetlandSweater is the one who pointed out to me that belted raglans have a lot of room to go wrong, he might have some other critiques or comments.

Maybe it's just the grass being greener, but with my current, non-belted raglan, I find I really wish I had one. Buttoned up (a necessity in real winter) I feel like I end up with a very 'Leon the Professional' silhouette, straight down from the shoulders. It also means there's a somewhat excessive amount of air space inside; I feel like it could be warmer and more practical with a belt to cinch things down.

 

[wahnamhong]

Thanks.. I was in their London shop a few months ago and did not really notice the raglan winter coats at the time. I did notice the raglan mac in houndstooth, which I really liked. I guess I’d rather go for that one then instead of the gunclub wool. Still on the fence re the blackwatch raglan. They are all around 1500 euro so I can only choose one!