The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[Pliny]

Mimo,

Your understanding spot on with the Cleverley RTW range being made by C&J's.

The first batch of Cleverley semi-bespoke shoes back in 2010 were 100% Crocketts
because they were using the same box and labels from Crocketts to package their shoes.
The packaging recently changed to not give the game away.

Also, you need to go back 20 years and look at the history of the two firms and their
trading strategy. Compared to Church; Lobb & Green. Crocketts never had a strong high
street present. Their trade were predominantly making shoes for independent shops and retail chain
and putting the shop names on them - so anyone could easily go up to Northampton and
tell Crocketts to make XYZ using their own last/design or using one of Crockett existing lasts.

This model still happening now to respect existing clients, but to a lesser extend
because their strategy in the last 10 years has been to establish the Crockett & Jones brand name
recognition by opening up Crockett shops in the City, Mayfair, Jermyn etc...
They just opened a new store along Knightsbridge next door to Church's and Harrods,
they been eyeing that unit for over 5 years.

ILLs - really interesting, thx. There was a Northampton insider who posted a while back, and came across as unbiased in his views. He had some interesting insights. (but i don't remember the thread sos). He and his father had been in the trade all their lives, had worked with nearly all the makers at some time or other, and IIRC he nominated C&J when pushed on which factory cut least corners and had the highest standards overall. - so altho I had no idea til u said it, I guess AC semi being C&J doesn't surprise me. I understand that the skilled workers are in such demand that they can get a job anywhere, and of course bring their skills with them. Boils down to the fact that altho C&J doesn't make top level shoes under their own label it doesn't mean they can't select a decent skin or bevel a decent waist. Come to think of it, the leather on my C&J handgrades is as good as anything I've seen.

 

[Louis XIV]

alladin, you should not order from Vass in UK sizes.
I told Mr. Kuti earlier I was interested in a pair of Vass and knew I would be UK 6 to 6.5 in C&J depending on the last.
He told me no problem, I could order from them in UK sizes as well and should go with UK6.5.
What I received was EU41.5 which was way too large for my feet.
I back Ilovelobbs and would say from my experience a UK 8 to 8.5 should be EU42.
You will be on the safe side ordering a EU 42.5

 

[gyasih]

I wear a smallish US11 and ordered a EU44.

 

[bamboo]

alladin, you should not order from Vass in UK sizes.
I told Mr. Kuti earlier I was interested in a pair of Vass and knew I would be UK 6 to 6.5 in C&J depending on the last.
He told me no problem, I could order from them in UK sizes as well and should go with UK6.5.
What I received was EU41.5 which was way too large for my feet.
I back Ilovelobbs and would say from my experience a UK 8 to 8.5 should be EU42.
You will be on the safe side ordering a EU 42.5

+1. I wear UK5.5 GG. EG. I got F-last UK5.5 (EU 39.5). Far too big.

 

[archangle13]

Hi,

I usually wear UK 8 or 8.5 in Crockett & Jones. I was thinking of ordering a pair of boots on the F last and wanted to inquire what sizing would be best.

I contacted Vass and they sent the insole measurements below. All my footwear measures 28cm internally.

F Last:

UK 6.5 28.1 cm
UK 7 28.5cm
UK7,5 28,8 cm
UK8 29,2 cm
UK8.5 29,4cm


I was leaning towards UK 6.5, but was wondering if dropping 2.5 sizes is wise!!

I agree with the rest that you should be wearing a 42. Send Vass your feet measurements (length + width with socks on) instead. Their size estimation will be the most accurate with the measurements.

 

[Verniza]



I agree with the rest that you should be wearing a 42. Send Vass your feet measurements (length + width with socks on) instead. Their size estimation will be the most accurate with the measurements.

Wow if they do provide sizing services based on feet measurements.

Amazing service.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

alladin, you should not order from Vass in UK sizes.
I told Mr. Kuti earlier I was interested in a pair of Vass and knew I would be UK 6 to 6.5 in C&J depending on the last.
He told me no problem, I could order from them in UK sizes as well and should go with UK6.5.
What I received was EU41.5 which was way too large for my feet.
I back Ilovelobbs and would say from my experience a UK 8 to 8.5 should be EU42.
You will be on the safe side ordering a EU 42.5

EU 41.5 = 7.5 UK = 8.5 US

What you should have got was a 40.5 or 41.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

Wow if they do provide sizing services based on feet measurements.

Amazing service.

Length & Width is only the basic,

You also need to provide him with circumference of
your ball; instep, waist and heel...

With permission from a proxy, use this link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34481664@N02/8053130379/in/set-72157631689318457/

 

[Louis XIV]

alladin, you should not order from Vass in UK sizes.

I told Mr. Kuti earlier I was interested in a pair of Vass and knew I would be UK 6 to 6.5 in C

EU 41.5 = 7.5 UK = 8.5 US

What you should have got was a 40.5 or 41. 

I did not specify the EU sizing, Mr. Kuti did, I said I was UK6.5 and I received EU41.5.
I returned that pair both because of size and wrongly executed design caused by misunderstandings between two non native English speakers - Mr. Kuti and myself.

Right now I've got a pair of EU40.5 at my place and even if I'd like to, I can't say they fit myself the way I'd like them to.
I have posted earlier about them likely being the correct size for myself, especially when worn with my ortophedic insoles (low instep), but I don't believe in it anymore.
I have put them on for whole an hour so the leather could take the temperatuer of my feet and mold around them and I end up experiencing too much heel slipage and my toes don't reach into the toe box far enough.
Fiddler and others said they were UK6.5 and have gone EU40 in Vass F and were fine.
I took and measured the traces of my feet over and over again, have gone to a department store that offers C&J and tried on several pairs for countless times (some I like in UK6 others in UK6.5), as well as I have gone to three cobblers to have them have a look at the Vass.
They agree the current size is too large but are afraid of telling me how much to size down.
Also I have a pair of US7 Rancourt & Co Ranger Mocs which I am very comfortable in, yet of course I do understand it is difficult to compare a suede mocassasin derby to a calf dress oxford.
So now I am faced with the tough decission whether I should size down to 39.5 or 40.
40 definitely won't be too small but might even still be on the large side, especially as one of my feet is noticeably smaller than the other anyways.
If I go 39.5 I might end up with a pair that is too small for my bigger foot, but if I am lucky they might just be the best fit I could get out of the F last with no more than ~1.5cm in additional length.

Have a look at the link below.
My bigger foot is ~253mm long, according to the link I should always be UK6 and either the greatest length in 39.5 or the smallst in 40, not taking width, heel etc. into account.
No idea if Vass sticks to this very values though.
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuhgröße#Erwachsenengr.C3.B6.C3.9Fen

 

[TehBunny]

^dude you are a brother from another mother...I hypothesise I have nearly the same length of foot as you; though mine are wide unlike yours usually fit into a G(wide) in most English made shoes (probably better with an E and a tiny bit before EE)...so we aren't brothers T_T...yes people are probably thinking bro u have marsupialed feet...

 

[Louis XIV]

My Ranger Mocs are a US7E rather than the standard D
I do get away with UK F-widths though and probably could also do with a US D if I wear my insoles.
What size are you in Vass F?

 

[TehBunny]

Sorry to say...but haven't bought any; after many failed shoe purchases I've resigned myself to a try before you buy attitude! So....someone book me tickets for Hungary!

 

[RogerP]

Sizing can be tricky for any brand when you are buying online and have no personal experience with the brand, but I would never try to buy a shoe online that had to fit both my feet and an orthopedic insert.

 

[Concordia]



Sorry to say...but haven't bought any; after many failed shoe purchases I've resigned myself to a try before you buy attitude! So....someone book me tickets for Hungary!

For the price of two EGs, you can probably get a plane ticket and two Vass that fit properly.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

^ I have thoroughly enjoyed each and every makeup you've posted. Their both unique and well thought out. Not to mention, a pleasant contribution to an otherwise tired thread of very traditional viewpoints

Namor,

Old School, New School, no School....your thoughts on these? After my experience with the Vass brand, you have to fully respect his old school thoughts.
Before Vass Isetan/Ugolini days, the way shoes should always be made: the uppers hand picked, the leather hand clicked; the upper/welt/sole hand
stitched and everything else should fit like a pair of gloves - similar to all his traditional Budapester lasts. I hope his future shoe operation and traditional
philosophy remains the same for all the new lasts and RTW range.

Shoe:

Vass River II
K last
Oiled Green Calf

My resoled Black St Crispin Lobbs 2010 in background to give the black/green colour contrast.