The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Fair enough.
     


  2. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    If the machine was 50K GBP, wouldn't that be very quickly offset by the collective annual salaries of all the clickers they canned? I'm just geussing. But that aside, luxury goods almost never ever ever ever go down in price. Bad juju.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013


  3. Jakezero

    Jakezero Senior member

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    I do not wear Lobbs, and as such I'm not directly affected by this particular event, but when the day comes that all shoes are 100 % machine-made I'm getting myself a 3D printer. If my shoes are going to be made by a machine, then it might as well be a machine in my own control.

    On a more Vass related note, I recently placed my first order through Tombrone. I know that the people at Vass are quite easy to deal with, but the shoe I wanted actually came out cheaper through Tom. Now the waiting game begins.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013


  4. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    You've hit the nail on this one - end of the day they are own by Hermes.

    Profit
    Profit
    and More Profit...
     


  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    They want to future-proof their business in the face of labor scarcity and rising labour cost.
    Lobb did not have their usual annual sale on last year as they're telling everyone they had
    a stonking year due to the weak £ and high demand from Asia.

    That's all true, but behind the scene there's more happening. We no longer have the luxury of
    popping into their factory shop and picking up a pair of £900 rejected blemish Chapel Monks
    for £270 anymore. Their factory prices are now £600 for rejected prestige range.
    The new QA guys are no longer rejecting shoes with blemishes or minor faults, they have
    simply lowered the quality bar to easily pass QA......Sad....


    Anyway...back to Vass. I'll be receiving Vass new colour range in Oil Green on the River II model this weekend...pics to come shortly.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013


  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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  7. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

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    I was pointing out that I am a proponent of the hand-making of expensive shoes. Craftsman should be part of the process. And the small invariables that arise from hand making shoes is a fine thing.

    Also, I was bemoaning the every increasing creep of the robotization of everything. Many economists believe that, because of efficiencies in robotics and the like, the unemployment rate in even the top 1st world countries will remain closer to 10% than 5%. I'm seeing something small that may be a good business move for an individual company as being part of a larger shift that does not bode well for, well, humanity.

    Soon, we'll have 3-D printed shoes....
     


  8. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    You got this one wrong.
    They would not lower the prices, they would just increase their margins ever more.

    Also, regarding the laser cutting machine, I would guess it comes with a lower quality in leather pieces aswell.
    Why? Not because the laser is cutting badly, but because I am almost certain they will too have a camera measuring the pieces of leather and software that calculates how to cut it the most economically.
    From what I have learned at SF, I would guess the most time consuming process of the clickers is/was to check the leather for faults and to imagine a way to cut around them while still getting as many "finished" piece out of it as possible.
    The cutting along the traces of a pattern should not take too long or be impossible to master.
    Thus I expect the most recent JLs to have more imperfections in the uppers than on their older shoes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I did not mean to suggest that this particular vendor would lower prices, but that the techniques would spread to other makers who aren't as rarefied, allowing them to offer quality previously only available at a higher price.


    If it does pan out this way, then I would expect a commensurate loss of reputation.
     


  10. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Add911 -

    Whatever you heard is 100% correct. AC Semi-Bespoke are indeed made by Crocketts. I couldn't believe
    the £995 shoes could possibly come out of the Crocketts factory....I was amazed by the leather grade,
    sublime finishing, bevelled waist and elongated last. They are definitely in the Corthay & Crispin league...

    I don't understand why Crockett do not come out with their own top top end range to compete with the
    SC, Corthays etc...
     


  11. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    My understanding was that the standard bench made Cleverley range are made by C&J, but the higher end Anthony Cleverley range are made by Edward Green. Please correct me if that's wrong. In either case, they are slightly more expensive than the maker's own-name equivalent.

    Anyway ILL, I'm looking forward to seeing that original, hand-welted green austerity wingtip from VASS!
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Another interesting point. Why Edward Green does not make their top drawer range RTW again? My father's one a 'century' ago still looks so nice, and so much better than what they offer RTW nowadays. It is similar to G&G's Deco, will it be really a bad decision to have it RTW? I can imagine it will sell very well overseas.
     


  13. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    I noticed this in my Vass whiskey loafers a few days ago. I always use a shoe horn so hard to see how this would happen. Maybe this is one of those idiosyncrasies of handmade shoes. And maybe that's why Razor had told me, "Mr Vass don't like to make cordovan loafer... but if you want we will make."

    Wonder if it can be repaired by a cobbler without sending back to Vass.

    [​IMG]
     


  14. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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    Doesn't look like any real damage, you could probably restitch it yourself if you were feeling particularly daring. I forget what the front of your loafer is like, but I'm surprised they didn't make a seamless heel.
     


  15. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    That's them from the front.

    [​IMG]
     


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