The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    To get back to the good stuff, I have included a ton of pics of the swatches in various lighting. I numbered them 1-8, from left to right looking at the computer monitor.
    1. 6319
    2. Red Cognac
    3. Antic Cognac
    4. 6125 Cognac
    5. Cognac
    6. Burgundy
    7. Oxblood
    8. Dark Brown
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    Burgundy, Oxblood, Dark Brown
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    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013
  2. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Thanks, G. I kind of assumed your first point, but was surprised that the likes of EG, JL, G&G, and the "handgrade" ranges of other makers, would be included.

    So, in answer to my previous question, Vass shoes are not gemmed, and are completely hand-welted and hand-stitched soles? Man, I love them even more now. Any idea what other makers fall into this category?

    As for blake rapid, fair point, but it's horses for courses: for a lightweight loafer or something, I get it, but to be honest I always prefer the way a corked, welted shoe moulds to the foot.

    Anyway, I guess both you and the Hoo are right: gemming does fail, it is inferior to a totally hand-sewn construction, but in the real world (especially for vain self-obsessed types like us who rotate several pairs), we might never know. The big point about what Hoo said, I think, is that it puts a question mark over paying so much for the top brands - unless you're going to treat them with kid gloves and wear them twice a year. I've no issue with a pair of $300 Cheaneys with that construction, but if I'd just bought a G&G MTO for $1300+, I'd be pissed.

    So, Vass rocks then. No dissenters in this thread, I'm sure. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  3. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Goodyear MEANS gemmed. In handwelt, a part of the leather insole in cored out and sewn to the welt.. In Goodyear, a piece of textile is glued to the insole and the welt sewn to it (then to the upper).
     
  4. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    As grown men, cursing/ offensive language as an insult on a forum is totally unnecessary. Best to remember the internet is forever.
     
  5. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Love the two ones in saddle
     
  6. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    In terms of modern footwear, Vass is the only hand welted shoe available at that price point (at least unless we add in some not very well known artisans who make small batches).
     
  7. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Rikod-

    The Burgundy with 360 welt is beautiful. The difference b/w Whiskey and Saddle seems to be very nuanced isn't it?
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  8. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    This. Hoo-man, delivery aside, was trying to clearly make a point that is often ignored here. There is no need for name calling. There are not many members here who are willing to take iconic makers to task. If is refreshing to read posts that are something more than fan-boy ravings. They all have their place but fundamental topics such as gemming help people understand and learn beyond simply looking at a shoe and saying "I like it" for esthetic reasons and justify their liking of it simply because it is EG or JL.
     
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Good stuff. Thank you for posting them up! They look so different indoors and out!

    Is the third from left, a plain brown?
     
  10. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    I think it's one of Vass' Cognac colors. The one on the far right is Dark Brown.
     
  11. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Yes the difference is subtle but a little more apparent in person, saddle is more orange, whiskey is lighter and yellowish. The ptb was inspired in the shoe Moo posted a few pages back but here in the F since I already have a few ptb's in the P2. Thanks
     
  12. justsayno

    justsayno Senior member

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    i appreciate it. when the passion calls, you just got to do it.
     
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    A few Vass Chromexcel photos...up for sale in my signature in case anyone's interested.


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  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Gemmed or hand welted?



    It's all relative. But goodyear welted is only as good as cement construction due to gemming let along the numerous cost cutting materials used, eg celastic stiffener instead of leather, canvass lining instead of leather, cheap metal shanks, etc.

    It's ludicrous to argue that Goodyear condstruction is not bad because it has been around for a long time.
     
  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    This is how I understood it.
     

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