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Tomc

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Even 20 years ago,
China was destined for greatness in shoe making.
That country made a decision long ago to make great shoes.
They bought the top clean state of the art factories and filled them with the best equipment,
and they paid the best teachers to show them how to make lasts and make shoes to the highest standards.
Me remember the very start of this trend.
When G&G first come out,
my friend said he would teach them to make the G&G style shoes and to highend standards,
and a number of years later they were there.
No one believed it at the time,
but things were quietly happening behind the scenes.

That sounds quite interesting actually. What high end Chinese brands would you recommend?
 

bernoulli

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As somebody who owns plenty of Vass and Chinese maker shoes, I couldn't agree more. There are always tradeoffs, and Vass continues to represent one of the best cost/benefit propositions around, warts and all (Slimshoes also provides great value for money, but for other reasons). I would rather buy Vass than G&G, for instance, and would gladly live with these microscopic flaws.



This is always an interesting lens to look at these things through. As far as I’m aware there are *maybe* (based on current exchange rates) 2 hand welted shoe makers who are less expensive than Vass. Both of the alternatives are made in China and as far as I know use lesser materials.

When you buy from Vass you’re buying a high end construction, good raw materials and a nice looking last. What you sacrifice is that they tend to be a little more rustic in the finishing department, have spottier QC and not the easiest to deal with CS.

So while it might be viewed as an expensive shoe based upon what some customers might used to purchasing the reality is that they’re in the bucket of the most basic, entry level hand welted shoes out there and expectations ought to be set accordingly.

Beyond that with your pair I don’t see any construction flaws that will lead to a shorter lifespan or failure and frankly I don’t understand the need to stare at things under a microscope or magnified zoom when guys get their shoes. You’re about to put them on your feet, walk on dirty concrete and wear them. They’ll change as you add creams and polish, they’ll change as they wear and as you scuff them. The soles will wear down. They’ll crease and change.

When they’re on your feet you’ll be looking at them from 5-6 feet away. Nobody is going to crouch down and stare at your shoes or break out a magnifying glass to inspect them. Wear them and enjoy them.
 

bernoulli

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Slimshoes, Oct 10th, Acme, Jim&Jun, Mattina, and Lu Yang, from the top of my head. Something in every price point imaginable. I am yet to be disappointed by Chinese-made shoes, other than a pair of "bespoke" from a no-name brand.

That sounds quite interesting actually. What high end Chinese brands would you recommend?
 

Son Of Saphir

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Some people here would be better placed to answer,
there are so many good makers now.
The Chinese have last making and shoemaking down to an artform.
Even in the old days the Chinese would make for Prada Gucci etc because they had the skills with the machines and the factories to do thee work.
Before those days were the real old days (80's or 90's) when the soles used to fall off after 3 months because the Chinese regime used to steal the glue from the shoe factories and force the factories to fill up the glue vats with water. :fu:
Many interesting old stories about robbery and thugs and shoe factories.
 

Tomc

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Slimshoes, Oct 10th, Acme, Jim&Jun, Mattina, and Lu Yang, from the top of my head. Something in every price point imaginable. I am yet to be disappointed by Chinese-made shoes, other than a pair of "bespoke" from a no-name brand.

Ah man. I've been missing out.
 

Son Of Saphir

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The Chinese bought off the talent from the West so they could make the best shoes.
My friend the last maker was offered $500,000 per year in the old days to teach the Chinese last making.
This was in early 2,000's when the Chinese had big visions.

Yes @Tomc you are missing out on stunning beauties.
Look at Acme.
Good for some men.
 

Son Of Saphir

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This is what the Chinese were first making in their factories before they moved into G&G style highend shoes.
They had humble beginnings and made shoes like Alden.
This was just before the big change into highend.
Already they were making great American style shoes better than the Americans.
No one in the West knew that at the time,
it was the big secret.
The Chinese were slowly developing the skills and learning how to make fiddleback waists.

Students of my friend
069.JPG


Chinese made American shoes
073.JPG
078.JPG
 

Son Of Saphir

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Hi
At Vass Shop are Norweger B grade -30%.

This flow is very deep..

View attachment 1841838

This is getting a bit slap happy from Vass.
Would write a kind letter,
thank them for all their great shoes,
but mention some of the sloppy work and hoping they can improve quality control in this area in the future.
Show Vass these photos.

Look like Vass might handle too many orders.
They rush things and might lose enthusiasm.
Hope Vass not like assembly line where workers are forced to make too many shoes.
 

DonRaphael

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This is “Vass Charm” apparently and people on here happy to pay full price for them
What are you even talking about?

They're listed in their sale section at 30 % off marked as B grades with full disclosure of the defects with pictures and in writing.

John Lobb, Edward Green, Cheaney, Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, Church’s and Barker all stock second grade ("subs") shoes in factory shops where they sell them at discounted prices. Vass does it as well. The difference is that Vass offers them to international costumers as well by listing them on their website too.
 
Last edited:

ACLC

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What are you even talking about?

They're listed in their sale section at 30 % off marked as B grades with full disclosure of the defects with pictures and in writing.

John Lobb, Edward Green, Cheaney, Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, Church’s and Barker all stock second grade ("subs") shoes in factory shops where they sell them at discounted prices. Vass does it as well. The difference is that Vass offers them to international costumers as well by listing them on their website too.
As I stated in my previous post, there are shoes listed as B Grade on the vass site that have less stains than my pair, which other posters are writing off as “Vass Charm” and that I should be happy with paying full price for them.

Here’s an example:

That’s what I’m talking about.
 

DonRaphael

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As I stated in my previous post, there are shoes listed as B Grade on the vass site that have less stains than my pair, which other posters are writing off as “Vass Charm” and that I should be happy with paying full price for them.

Here’s an example:

That’s what I’m talking about.
I get your point, although the shoes on that link are listed as B grade with full disclosure of the defects and at a discounted price as well.

Your shoes were in a worse state while not being classified as B grade. The message was clear since your first post. If you're not happy with your Vass shoes I'd suggest you send Vass an email or call them. This forum can't fix that for you. This is not an affiliate thread. Linking B grade shoes on their website isn't helping.

If your purpose was/is to vent your dissatisfaction with Vass shoes or with their customer service, it's well received by now. People, me amongst others, have also elaborated on the meaning of the "Vass charm" term you keep referring to. That has nothing to do with Vass themselves. This is a term used with tongue in cheek on the forum and nothing else.

Why are you still around recycling the same lines without adding anything new to the conversation? And on top of that linking B grades. What's your/the purpose when your message has been made clear by now?
 

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