The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[ThinkDerm]



Generally a cap toe dub monk guy but God are those beautiful. Deets?

delos. he does it his way.

 

[poorsod]

I don't mind discussing it at all, I just don't know if I can convey it.

It's a whole lot of little things, subtle things, precision things that add up to beautiful.

When I take on a student, one of the things I tell them is that everyone makes mistakes even master shoemakers. And one mistake won't ordinarily destroy the impact of a shoe or make you question the skill that was brought to bear. At least if the mistake is not in-your-face-obvious. Two mistakes aren't gonna kill you nor are three but enough mistakes and it adds up...to ugly.

The human eye wants to see symmetry. It wants to see smooth graceful curves. When symmetry is interrupted, when curves become corners, you might not immediately recognize it. you might not, gasp and say "oh how terrible!" But somewhere, on a gut level, the mind sees, knows and is either perplexed (at asymmetry) or put off by the fall from grace.

Delos never seems to fall. From presentation to the tiniest points of execution,everything speaks to refinement and care.

Hope that helps...

Thanks for your input.

How much does a Delos go for these days?

You can find the prices on his web-site, beginning at EU 2500 for the first pair:

http://www.anthonydelos.com/5.aspx?sr=1

From what I gathered from Google translate was that 2500 euro is for loafers with rubber soles or something similar. His "classic" line of welted shoes start at 3000 euros. There was some talk a couple years ago about trying to get Delos to come to Manhattan but I'm not sure if it came to fruition.

http://www.styleforum.net/forum/thread/146706/anthony-delos-takes-manhattan/0_20

 

[ThinkDerm]



Thanks for your input.




From what I gathered from Google translate was that 2500 euro is for loafers with rubber soles or something similar. His "classic" line of welted shoes start at 3000 euros. There was some talk a couple years ago about trying to get Delos to come to Manhattan but I'm not sure if it came to fruition.

http://www.styleforum.net/forum/thread/146706/anthony-delos-takes-manhattan/0_20

to my understanding - that never happened. is delos worth 4 times the price of ugolini?

 

[poorsod]



to my understanding - that never happened. is delos worth 4 times the price of ugolini?

I haven't seen Ugolini bespoke. I've moved away from typically Italian styled shoes. My shoes are now mostly English or French (actually all except for sneakers and 1 pair of boat shoes).

 

[isshinryu101]



I've moved away from typically Italian styled shoes. My shoes are now mostly English or French .

The more I see top quality Italian made shoes, the more I am losing my pre-supposition of what "Italian shoes are".

The top makers are so versatile that it's very hard to pin a label on them. They can (and do) make shoes that defy a "standard" label, building on aspects of all kinds of different styles (including English & Vintage US).

 

[Wjleier]

I want to make this perfectly clear: I am happy for none of you! Purely envious and jealous... no other feelings.


But seriously though, this thread =

 

[Cravate_Noire]

Thanks for your input.




From what I gathered from Google translate was that 2500 euro is for loafers with rubber soles or something similar. His "classic" line of welted shoes start at 3000 euros. There was some talk a couple years ago about trying to get Delos to come to Manhattan but I'm not sure if it came to fruition.

http://www.styleforum.net/forum/thread/146706/anthony-delos-takes-manhattan/0_20

to my understanding - that never happened. is delos worth 4 times the price of ugolini?

Did Ugolini become cheaper and didnt tell me??

 

[Pliny]



I don't mind discussing it at all, I just don't know if I can convey it.

It's a whole lot of little things, subtle things, precision things that add up to beautiful.

When I take on a student, one of the things I tell them is that everyone makes mistakes even master shoemakers. And one mistake won't ordinarily destroy the impact of a shoe or make you question the skill that was brought to bear. At least if the mistake is not in-your-face-obvious. Two mistakes aren't gonna kill you nor are three but enough mistakes and it adds up...to ugly.

The human eye wants to see symmetry. It wants to see smooth graceful curves. When symmetry is interrupted, when curves become corners, you might not immediately recognize it. You might not gasp and say "oh how terrible!" But somewhere, on a gut level, the mind sees, knows, and is either perplexed (at asymmetry) or put off by the fall from grace.

Delos never seems to fall. From presentation to the tiniest points of execution,everything speaks to refinement and care.

Hope that helps...

DWFII rocking post - agree w you . Almost exact same shoe in last and style and leather can look 100 per cent better in hands of master. can see it in Vass, for example. 10+ makers there, along with the clickers etc and some are better than others. The best always seem to be saying 'i want this to be as perfect as poss' and don't stop til it is.

 

[poorsod]



The more I see top quality Italian made shoes, the more I am losing my pre-supposition of what "Italian shoes are".

The top makers are so versatile that it's very hard to pin a label on them. They can (and do) make shoes that defy a "standard" label, building on aspects of all kinds of different styles (including English & Vintage US).

Most people are better at one thing than another. I don't see the benefit of asking a maker to make something outside their specialty unless there is no other choice.

 

[ajv]

How much does a Delos go for these days?

You can find the prices on his web-site, beginning at EU 2500 for the first pair:

http://www.anthonydelos.com/5.aspx?sr=1

First price is 3'000 euros for a pair with leather soles

 

[isshinryu101]



Most people are better at one thing than another. I don't see the benefit of asking a maker to make something outside their specialty unless there is no other choice.

I don't understand this. If their specialty is "making beautiful shoes", then why should the subtleties of last shape, welt edges, and detailing make any difference?

 

[DWFII]



I don't understand this. If their specialty is "making beautiful shoes", then why should the subtleties of last shape, welt edges, and detailing make any difference?

Most people are better at one thing than another. I don't see the benefit of asking a maker to make something outside their specialty unless there is no other choice.

Of course, that's what "bespoke" is about.

But having said that, bespoke is also a "relationship."A two-way relationship. It's not just demanding and expecting your every wish to be fulfilled.

Every maker has his own "style"--sensibilities that he will be reluctant to abandon or is perhaps even incapable of abandoning. And no one wants to directly copy someone else's work...it's a matter of integrity...honour even--it's stealing another person's thunder. Shoemaking at this level is more than just lasting and sewing and driving pegs, it is a pursuit of excellence and beauty.

And that's a very individual quest.

 

[Cravate_Noire]

How much does a Delos go for these days?

You can find the prices on his web-site, beginning at EU 2500 for the first pair:

http://www.anthonydelos.com/5.aspx?sr=1

First price is 3'500 euros for a pair with leather soles

Bengal stripe is an old man, he didn't take into account that information on the internet could may be not up to date, hhaaaaa .:tounge:

 

[poorsod]

Most people are better at one thing than another. I don't see the benefit of asking a maker to make something outside their specialty unless there is no other choice.

I don't understand this. If their specialty is "making beautiful shoes", then why should the subtleties of last shape, welt edges, and detailing make any difference?

People have different taste. E.g. You seem to like big fancy welts but not everyone shares your taste.

At the price point of high end bespoke, it is about subtlety and refinement. If you don't notice the differences, might as well go with the cheaper option.

As DWFII mentioned, relationship is another factor and a topic for a separate discussion.

 

[isshinryu101]



People have different taste. E.g. You seem to like big fancy welts but not everyone shares your taste.

this has nothing to do with my statement. but, please note that Big welts and stitching can be found in US vintage, Italian, and UK country shoes. Those styles are deeply ingrained in the history of all 3 regions' shoes. This style is NOT just typically "Italian".

At the price point of high end bespoke, it is about subtlety and refinement. If you don't notice the differences, might as well go with the cheaper option.

Silvano lattanzi may disagree with the "subtlety & refinement" part.

As DWFII mentioned, relationship is another factor and a topic for a separate discussion.

weaggree on this