The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[SeamasterLux]

With Brioni I use a 36 but the last time I tried it was 3 months ago prior to the pilates and dieting so maybe I'm a 34 now which I've never seen available in their shops. Then again I'm only tightening my waist + stomach area while the chest probably gets a bit bigger due to the pushups. Somehow the Lanvin 36 I'm wearing right now feels tighter on the shoulders. I use a 34 only with Corneliani and Isaia but with the latter I may be able to use 36 depending on model line like for example a more casual sport jacket.

Kiton isn't impossible as the discounts are massive and you can haggle with the sellers but it's impossible to find the size for us skinny guys. As far as price goes you can always try to haggle but size is the main issue. A perfect size for me is actual size shoulder 17, chest 19, length as short as possible so I usually alter the bottom.

Same here: 17, 19 and 28.5 for length.
I find some small sizes but at insane prices.

We should eventually trade

 

[Riva]

Same here: 17, 19 and 28.5 for length.
I find some small sizes but at insane prices.

We should eventually trade

You probably also noticed that slim Aquaspider Isaias are never on discount as well. Whenever one pops up it'd be gone within 1-2 days. Too many slim people in the world

 

[SeamasterLux]

You probably also noticed that slim Aquaspider Isaias are never on discount as well. Whenever one pops up it'd be gone within 1-2 days. Too many slim people in the world

Absolutely, which is why I'm going MTM/Bespoke 90% of the time. There were some Kiton in 36 at -70% at Barneys NYC but it was still 2000 USD since the jacket was in cashmere, linen and silk. I didn't take it and opted for a Ermenegildo Zegna fully canvassed (really looked like a Caruso construction) in Cashmere and silk at 700 USD (-70% off retail as well).

 

[Riva]

Those are some awesome deals you got there. Kitons at $1200 after disc sometimes pop up but always either bad color or different size.

Hey how are the RRLs by Caruso? Any experience? I'm thinking about getting one to test out. They're hella cheap.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Those are some awesome deals you got there. Kitons at $1200 after disc sometimes pop up but always either bad color or different size.

Hey how are the RRLs by Caruso? Any experience? I'm thinking about getting one to test out. They're hella cheap.

If you're thinking about the ones from Malford in birdseye grey and Blue windowpane, I saw them. They look impressive. I particularly liked the grey cut but looks way too much like a orphan suit jacket.

I think they're outstanding value at 250 GBP

 

[Riva]

Yea I think I'll try them out. Always on the lookout for the best deals to set new standards.

 

[jeff13007]



Collezioni has decent fabrics, but at the end of the day it's a diffusion brand that was made by fasci (spelling?) for Armani. I think it's gone inhouse since then, but alot of the stuff is made outside of Italy.

I did see one AC coat that felt canvassed, but the majority I've handled were definitely fused.

It used to be a partnership with Zegna i think armani was like 51% and zegna was 49% or vice versa. I believe they went in house again a few years back though. I think the AC coat you felt was by Zegna cuz the ones ive seen were canvassed

 

[othertravel]



It used to be a partnership with Zegna i think armani was like 51% and zegna was 49% or vice versa. I believe they went in house again a few years back though. I think the AC coat you felt was by Zegna cuz the ones ive seen were canvassed

It had a fasci tag (so maybe fasci was a joint company?). An SA once said that the partnership was on the logistical side.

Either way, some of the fabrics are nice.

Here are some pics of an AC suit in the "Sartorial Deco" cut. The fabric is a nice navy window pain/pow. Even fits pretty well, but is definitely fused.

 

[jeff13007]



It had a fasci tag (so maybe fasci was a joint company?). An SA once said that the partnership was on the logistical side.

Either way, some of the fabrics are nice.

Here are some pics of an AC suit in the "Sartorial Deco" cut. The fabric is a nice navy window pain/pow. Even fits pretty well, but is definitely fused.

Some were made in the Zegna factory as well. Ive seen them with Zegna makers tags at Barney's nyc as late as summer time last year. But it could have been one of those things like Gucci had, where some suits were done by Zegna and others by someone else.

 

[coloRLOw]

anyone can comment on Michelangelo's quality?
it's said that Michelangelo is an Isaia diffusion line, made in a factory Isaia owns, but no coral pin, slightly lesser fabrics.
but don't find any info about the construction and workmanship.

The history of Isaia dates back to the early 1920's, when father Enrico opened up a drapers shop in Naples. He originally sold wholesale fabrics used in producing fine garments. In the 1950's, he relocated to a small town outside of Naples, where he started a small artisan workshop. Along with his sons Enrico, Corrado and Rosario, they started the Isaia line of made to measure suits. Two decades later, brothers Enrico and Corrado created the Isaia signature line, and they now preside over the company started by their father. The Isaia line was exported in the late 80's first to Europe and Asia, and then to the U.S in the 1990's. The Isaia group (Isaia and Isaia S.P.A) is still family run. Part of this group is another firm, called Michelangelo S.R.L. Michelangelo is located north of Naples in a town called Frosinone. Brother Rosario Isaia runs Michelangelo, and all the garments produced are made in Italy and marketed as "Gian Luca Napoli" in the U.S market. This line was launched in the fall of 2002, and is meant to satisfy a growing need for half canvassed suits. The factory is integrated and has its own internal style team. The Gian Luca suits retail for between $795 and $950. The name Gian Luca is after Gianluca Isaia, who was born 40 years ago and attended a Milanese Economic School. After, he entered the family business with his cousins who already were running several aspects of the production process. The Gian Luca Napoli line has many elements taken from traditional Neapolitan tailoring, such as higher armholes. The armholes and collars are hand sewn.

 

[sftiger]

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[kulata]



anyone can comment on Michelangelo's quality? it's said that Michelangelo is an Isaia diffusion line, made in a factory Isaia owns, but no coral pin, slightly lesser fabrics. but don't find any info about the construction and workmanship.

I have a Michelangelo jacket. Construction is great for machine made cloths and it is decent for the price.

 

[coloRLOw]

I have a Michelangelo jacket. Construction is great for machine made cloths and it is decent for the price.

thx!
is half canvassed?

 

[kulata]



thx!
is half canvassed?

My jacket is full canvassed.

 

[coloRLOw]

My jacket is full canvassed.

Wow
it's nicer than my expectation
so should we put it into the good tier?