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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    No experience with YSL, sorry.
     
  2. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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  3. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Basic alterations at the time of purchase are almost always included in the price of RTW clothes from reputable brands -- except for Boggi which charges extra even for a trouser cuff.

    Returning for alterations as I did, years after the purchase, is highly unusual and not budgeted by any brand I've ever heard of.
     
  4. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    If the item was purchased from the physical store or from it's online website, I can agree that it's exceptional customer service that they do free alterations even after months or years from when it was purchased.

    But if it was bought somewhere else, especially from a secondary market, I wouldn't consider it lack of customer loyalty if they refused to do any free alterations.
     
  5. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    You're right, rather than speak of loyalty, I guess I'm calling out the after sales shortfalls of some of these brands compared to their top-tier branding campaigns.

    I mean, hey, if Canali, Smalto and Cifonelli flagship stores will alter some suits that I didn't even buy there, while Ralph Lauren. Zegna and Corneliani won't, it just goes to show who is customer-centric and who is not.

    Special call-out to Ralph Lauren flagship because the suit I brought in was purchased there.
     
  6. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    In the mansion? I had my altered after a few years later no issue (loss weight), though I was buying 2 more suits at the time.
     
  7. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Yes, in the Ralph Lauren mansion, not some franchisee. Tailors on location and all.

    Completely inconsistent policy:

    They had already done alterations for free for me -- at that time, I dealt with the same salesman who had initially sold me the suit. (I even ordered the waistcoat made-to-measure.) But when I went back after weight loss, the store manager said they were going to charge me this time around.

    My initial obliging salesman had left Ralph Lauren in the meantime, and this manager didn't want to play along with what his salesman had done for me the first time. But the tailor who took down my new measurements was the same as before, he knew the whole history and seemed pretty willing to oblige once again. It was not until the following day that I got a no-go phone call from the manager, who was not even present the day before when we had taken down the new measurements with his obliging tailor.

    Thanks to the internet and forums like SF, what some RTW brands think they are saving on the one hand, they can end up losing in e-reputation on the other hand. They would do well to view customer experience as a whole, over the duration, not just a fire-and-forget at the moment of sale. Hopefully, with enough posts like these, they will start to treat every customer as a brand ambassador. (The brands that I thanked in my blog review would appear to already be working at that level.)

    If I bothered to write-up this anecdote, it's mainly because it runs so contrary to what you would expect from Ralph Lauren, given how much emphasis they have put on the customer experience in their flagship stores. Heck, I'm even on their private sales mailing list, which not every customer gets to be on. I'm also invited to Ralph Lauren sponsored events via co-branded mailing lists with the major blogs in Paris. You'd think some alert would pop-up on their computer screen before calling me back the next day with a complete 180.

    As a social experiment, I may walk in again some day if I hear there is a new manager, just to see if the new guy flips back the other way. When brands seem to run such inconsistent after sales policies, you just never know what to expect, you could always get lucky.
     
    3 people like this.
  8. Geran Brown

    Geran Brown Senior member

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    Is this list only for OTR/RTW suits?

    If not, where would Indochino, Black Lapel and the likes fall?
     
  9. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    only OTR/RTW suits..
     
  10. Geran Brown

    Geran Brown Senior member

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    Thanks mate!
     
  11. doctorman

    doctorman Senior member

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    where do you guys think the freemans sporting club (FSC) suits rank? they're advertised as full-canvassed with natural shoulders and tailored fit. looks nice online. anyone has any experience?
     
  12. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    2 people like this.
  13. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    FWIW, the chain Harry Rosen in Canada offers lifetime fitting and repair on garments purchased from them (Zegna, Isaia, Canali, Tom Ford,...basically your whole list). Very nice. I think most local bespoke tailors would do so also.
     
  14. McKriss

    McKriss Well-Known Member

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    I think this discussion deserves a dedicated thread. "Free lifetime fitting list"- or something like that.
     
  15. Artking3

    Artking3 Senior member

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    FSC suits are made by Martin Greenfieldand should be ranked accordingly.
     
  16. Archimedes

    Archimedes Active Member

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    Does anyone have any experience with Tombolini suits? They are in the $1k - $2k+ range so some of them should at least be full-canvased I suppose...
     
  17. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I think they're generally half canvassed or fused.
     
  18. Archimedes

    Archimedes Active Member

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    Even the ones at $2'500+?! Talk about value for money...
     
  19. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I've never seen the ones at that price. They could be fully canvassed at that price.
     
  20. chickendinner

    chickendinner Member

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    noob question: how do you define construction quality? for me it's fabric, cut and fit. Luciano Barbera(5 stars) provides fabrics for Armani (1 star) and Ralph Lauren (2 stars). while Armani has many different cuts, most Armani suits fit me much better than Belvest (4 stars) suits. And Ermenegildo Zegna imo has even nicer fabrics and cuts.description says fabrics and fit are irrelevant so i'm totally confused. can someone enlighten me what's "construction quality"?? is it stitching?

    and btw i own Armani Collezioni suit which is fully canvassed though the list says they're fused and i guess it's the main reason they're placed so low
     

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