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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Agree that regardless of price, be sure it fits you first. If it fits, that is a good price. You could perhaps get another $100 off (I bought solid navy and charcoal suits last year for $850 each), but if it fits and you like it, you should jump on it!
     
  2. alpyigit

    alpyigit Well-Known Member

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    Two quick questions here for which I would truly appreciate any guidance / answers:

    - Is Brunello Cucinelli SC's are done by Caruso? I just saw a BC SC today which I can swear by that identical to my Caruso SC albeit being in different color?

    - I also liked a BC DB suit but on the fence about paying USD1500. Just questioning if I am getting solid craftsmanship for that kind of money, which I always believe I am getting when I buy RLPL and Attolini, even I end up paying higher than this price level..
     
  3. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    You buy RLPL and Attolini but now are considering a Cucinelli?
    That is :uhoh: and makes little sense to put it mildly.
    1500 is not a small number for RTW if you are a real shopper but in that case you do not care about cost and would not be lurking here asking about it.
    I have implicitly answered one of your questions without the intent to do so.
     
  4. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    If you answered the question, I don't understand what you said....


    I believe BC makes their own stuff, but I'm not certain. BC has great fabrics and styling, their construction is good, but generally lighter and a notch (or two) below RLPL and Attolini.
     
  5. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Was it so hard to figure that the implication was:if you buy Attolini and RLPL at something near full price why would you bother with Cucinelli at 1500?
     
  6. alpyigit

    alpyigit Well-Known Member

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    I have not really asked for comments on my shopping pattern here nor how I should spend my money, it was rather a specific question on BC and certainly your answer does not address it. Suggest you ignore my question and live in peace.
     
  7. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Actually, you did ask about an aspect of your shopping pattern, ie. Cucinelli at 1500USD. That was, in essence, your question.

    It is clearly not as good as Attolini and for me(most on SF), nothing to be happy about purchasing at 1500.
    And as far as answering points outside of your direct question, yes, I did and that was not necessary but when you lack logic or rationale it makes the question fuzzy because one or a few of many factors is off.
    And that does needle me more than it should, I admit.
    Really, I just am curious as to know which factor led to your odd question construction.
    But I will just have to live at peace without such knowledge.
     
  8. alpyigit

    alpyigit Well-Known Member

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    yeah, whatever.
     
  9. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    Seattle
    Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

    Excellent [☆☆☆☆☆]
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Caraceni
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - St Andrew / Santandrea
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

    Very Good[☆☆☆☆] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Battistoni
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino

    Good[☆☆☆] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics but usually half canvassed)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani mainline
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)
    - Samuelsohn

    Satisfactory [☆☆] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boggi
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Burberry Prorsum
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
    - Coppley (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - Gucci
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Piombo
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Prada (half canvassed)
    - Peter Millar
    - Southwick
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre[☆] (Suits that are mediocre.)

    - Armani Collezioni (fused)
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Corneliani Trend (fused)
    - Dolce & Gabbana
    - Hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - J Crew Ludlow (fused)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Pal Zileri Lab
    - Versace Collection
    - Z Zegna
    I'm unsure who actually makes BC sport coats but I have one and can speak to the fact that they usually don't represent a great value for the money and incorporate 0 handwork however they do use amazing fabrics which, in my mind, helps balance the lack of hand details.

    I think you sort of said it yourself, RLPL and Attolini are much higher in quality and you can feel it when you wear them (or at least I can) but the build quality of BC will be "solid" just not as supple as many SF'ers prefer. We have expensive tastes it would seem.

    Also, he makes a 1-1/2 DB as opposed to the standard double breasted silhouette which shouldn't be ignored. If that's the look you want go for it but for myself I think I'd prefer something a bit more trad. In that range I'd be looking to Belvest before BC.

    just my .02
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2014
  10. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    i find a 'SARTORIA NAPOLETANA' sportcoat that made by isaia on ebay
    [​IMG]
    from the info.showed on this tag,i think isaia own this brand.
    but that's not the point,
    what surprised me is the hand-sewn method used here
    so can i suppose the quality of the garments under SN brand are higher than those isaia self brand?
     
  11. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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  12. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Oct 27, 2012
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    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
  13. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    The list says Brunello Cucinelli is half canvassed. Not true.
     
  14. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    +1
    one cotton BC suit handy is full canvassed

    boglioli which listed as half canvassed or fuse is a little in the same condition,
    because i have already met some full canvassed boglioli
     
  15. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  16. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Nov 13, 2008
    

    This list needs to be updated. Formosa? Ring Jacket? English RTW? Anyone?
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2014
  17. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    generally,i think ring jacket is 'Good'.

    i once sold a 'ring jacket black label' coat, which is nicer than those ' ring jacket' label (black or blue background color) garments i met
    but this is my only experience with 'black label' , so i have no idea whether it's a higher line or just older label.
     
  18. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 3, 2009
    

    From what I read based on other's experiences in the NMWA thread, Formosa should be at the top. Something that's bespoke quality or close to it.
     
  19. jaghetermattis

    jaghetermattis Well-Known Member

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    Oct 30, 2011
    

    - This is interesting. I don't think the black label exists anymore (now their highest appear to be 'Meister') but that's what I have too. I definitely find these higher than the 'good' category. Easily as good as what I've been from for example Belvest or Borrelli luxury vintage.
     
  20. doctorman

    doctorman Senior member

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    334
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    Nov 23, 2012
    Location:
    redondo beach, california
    alexander mcqueen suits anyone?
     

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