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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    More on the fashion side. You won't see top notch construction in McQueen, Prada, etc...
     
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    see below compressed list
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2014
  3. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Designer/fashion labels are often manufactured by one of the brands already listed in the ranking, when they're not made in some low-cost obscure factories in Asia -- or in southern or eastern Europe when they're a bit more upscale in their manufacturing.

    What would be really useful for this thread is if somebody could make a chart that associates all of the main designer/fashion labels with their corresponding manufacturing facilities, often owned and run by one of the other brands already listed. That would avoid having to review specifically each fashion label, because to get an idea of where they stand all you'd have to do is look at the chart of who's actually manufacturing for them. The rest is details such as fabric choices and style, which may be a more subjective matter of personal taste for each person. My understanding of the thread is that we are mainly concerned with manufacturing quality, not aesthetic choices, which are the hallmark of the designers themselves, so not really relevant in the context of a global ranking.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Dirnelli, do you know the companies Caruso and Corneliani and Canali and Zegna and St Andrew make for?
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2014
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Excellent [*****]

    - Oxxford

    - Brioni

    - Cesare Attolini

    - Caraceni

    - Kiton

    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

    - Luigi Borrelli

    - Sartoria Castangia

    - St Andrews / Santandrea
    • Old RLPL (now made by Caruso)

    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

    - Zegna Couture

    • Tom Ford

    - Sartoria Formosa







    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


    - Battistoni

    - D'Avenza

    - Isaia

    - Sartoria Partenopea

    - Oxxford (1220)

    - Belvest mainline

    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage

    - Canali Milano

    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria

    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

    - Ravazzolo

    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli

    - Raffaelle Caruso Sartoria Parma
    • Current RLPL

    - Sartorio

    - Stile Latino







    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

    - Canali mainline

    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics than mainline)

    - Cantarelli mainline

    - Corneliani mainline

    - Ermenegildo Zegna mainline
    • Dunhill (more classical cut)
    • Gucci (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)
    • Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)

    - Faconnable Tailleur

    - Martin Greenfield for Gilt, FSC
    • House label on Gilt
    • Freeman's Sporting Club

    - Hickey Freeman mainline

    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

    - Pal Zileri mainline

    - Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    • RLBL
    • Ma.Co.
    • Adriano and Sons (defunct, but some inventory floating)

    - Samuelsohn
    • Paul Stuart

    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)

    - Scuderi

    - Ring Jacket







    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

    - Burberry Prorsum

    - Cantarelli Tailor

    - Charles Tyrwhitt

    - CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
    • Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed; excellent fabrics on par with Corneliani mainline, if not better; also seems to be better quality sewing and linings than CC Corneliani)

    - Coppley (half canvassed)

    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

    - H. Freemann

    - Hackett (half canvassed)

    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

    - J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

    - Lardini (half canvassed)

    - L.B.M. 1911

    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

    - Piombo

    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)

    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    - Prada (half canvassed)

    - Peter Millar

    - Tagliatore







    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

    - Tombolini (fused, but excellent fabrics and Neapolitan styling - "poor man's Isaia")

    - J Crew Ludlow (fused)

    - Armani Exchange

    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

    - Dolce & Gabbana

    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

    - hickey (spelled with a lowercase "h" - now fused and made in China)

    - Hugo Boss (fused)

    - Joseph Abboud

    - Pal Zileri Lab

    - Versace Collection

    - Z Zegna

    - Armani Collezioni (fused)
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    i think A&S is in Sartoria Parma tier, though not equal to RLPL
    BTW, i once owned a Sartorio made A&S sc.
     
  7. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    At one point I had this entire list in Excel. I'll see if I can dig it up and put it on a Google Doc or something so that we can all contribute
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Ideally we'd have the factory names next to the brand names in the ranking built by this thread. That way folks should likely be able to see

    A) that alot of the same factory names are associated with the same level of quality
    B) that the same factories are making varying levels of quality & price
    C) that 'made in Italy' tends to mean something in terms of quality
    D) that alot of brands that you think of as different are all actually being in only a handful of the same places
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Well a lot factories also make things of vastly different qualities
     
  10. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    That was my point B)
     
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  11. TheOttosauraus

    TheOttosauraus Well-Known Member

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    This isn't true of McQueen; he himself was trained at Gieves & Hawkes and as such he has a lot of Savile Row influence in his suits and they are high quality, although definitely marked up for the label.
     
  12. JensenH

    JensenH Senior member

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    ^^ McQueen died a number of years ago.
     
  13. TheOttosauraus

    TheOttosauraus Well-Known Member

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    I'm well aware. He designed the brand, so it doesn't matter that he's dead. His fashion ideals live on in his brand.
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I know that he did wrk at G&H, but that doesn't mean his suits had amazing construction.

    That is, once he started his label, it doesn't follow that he had his suits made to G&H standards.

    Keep in mind that most fashion labels (Prada, D&G, Gucci) have so-so construction in their suits, with a few exceptions.

    Construction isn't paramount for many labels.
     
  15. TheOttosauraus

    TheOttosauraus Well-Known Member

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    I know that most fashion houses do not have high quality construction, but I believe that McQueen is slightly above the others. Obviously you pay for the design as well, but there's definitely carry over from G&H.
     
  16. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Versace use to be excellent (top line Zegna) decades ago, Gucci was good when Tom Ford was around. I wouldn't write them off just because they're fashion brand, I have no idea how good/bad they're these days though

    PS and wasn't dior pretty good too? Construction wise, not my type of cut...
     
  17. TheOttosauraus

    TheOttosauraus Well-Known Member

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    PS has always made some good quality suits. Full canvassed as far as I know, with some alright detailing. Just as TF made Gucci good, McQueen made his label good. I will admit I'm not fully aware of the quality of their suits as of now.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014
  18. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Prada and Hermes are made by Belvest from what I hear. Haven't handled them IRL, but if they're Belvest then they can't be too bad.
     
  19. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Not sure if still the case, but Dior has been made by Maco aka Caruso (along with Lanvin, Smalto, RLBL, and a host of others)
     

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