The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

What are peoples thoughts on 70/30 barathea wool-mohair blend vs. pure wool barathea? The mohair blend makes the tux a little lustrous, right? Does it have any other properties with regard to drape, wrinkles, breath-ability, etc?

I'm not sure if it comes into play, but I'm thinking about these options in regards to a midnight blue shawl dinner suit...

yes, it would be a SB shawl midnight tux. shooting for something that could work in all seasons, probably 310g range. I'm in the northeast US, so we have all 4 seasons with it getting relatively humid in the summers

My midnight blue dinner suit is a mohair blend. I'm not sure of the exact blend of mohair and wool, but the mohair does add a distinct feel to the cloth. I find it resists wrinkles more effectively than pure wool and possibly is slightly cooler, but not that I really notice. But I think a mohair blend is a good choice for a dinner jacket.

 

[ericgereghty]

What are peoples thoughts on 70/30 barathea wool-mohair blend vs. pure wool barathea? The mohair blend makes the tux a little lustrous, right? Does it have any other properties with regard to drape, wrinkles, breath-ability, etc?

I'm not sure if it comes into play, but I'm thinking about these options in regards to a midnight blue shawl dinner suit...

Feel will be grittier w/mohair, in my experience. Will wear a bit cooler as well. I prefer the drape of mohair. My pairs of mohair blend fresco feels about as rigid (mercifully tremendously more porous) than my 21oz denim.

Beyond that, I'd mostly focus on looks. You presumably won't be wearing BT enough for wrinkles to become a viable concern, so unless you run oven hot and/or have a pro-mo bias, just go with what looks better to you.

 

[JJ Katz]

Crossposting this, since I don't think I've ever contributed to this thread.

Yesterday, I let our kids go through my drawers to pass some of this time at home. My daughter came across a set of cufflinks and studs and asked me what they were for. I told her it was for a tuxedo and explained that that was what I might wear for an event when her mommy wore a long, fancy dress. She had me dig up it up from storage and put on the whole rig, except for socks. Hadn't worn it, perhaps since before she was born (and possibly since before this thread was born). Shown with slightly long shelter-in-place hair.
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Looks great, man. You should wear it ‘properly’ again the first chance you get.

 

[The Chai]

Caraceni DJ with Hermes lining...interesting piece from one of the greats to say the least

 

[The Chai]

Also would like to take a straw poll...for my new shantung faced single breasted shawl in dark navy mohair fresco, should I get covered silk buttons or black corozo?

Also debating whether I should put a buttonhole or not so I can wear a boutonniere (which I won't be wearing often but would like the option) it will be a milanese buttonhole if that factors in...

 

[Andy57]

Also would like to take a straw poll...for my new shantung faced single breasted shawl in dark navy mohair fresco, should I get covered silk buttons or black corozo?

Also debating whether I should put a buttonhole or not so I can wear a boutonniere (which I won't be wearing often but would like the option) it will be a milanese buttonhole if that factors in...

Here is my opinion (offered for free and worth every penny):

I would recommend buttons covered in the fresco, not the facing. And I think a buttonhole in a shawl collar looks wrong. It damages the sweep of the collar, to my mind.

 

[Andy57]

And once again, for all dressed up, no place to go Formal Friday, featuring my Burma jacket and a little eye candy...

The non-regulation bow tie is a one-off by Le Noeud Papillon. The ruffled shirt was cut by James MacAuslen at Budd.

 

[The Chai]

Here is my opinion (offered for free and worth every penny):

I would recommend buttons covered in the fresco, not the facing. And I think a buttonhole in a shawl collar looks wrong. It damages the sweep of the collar, to my mind.

I like that idea...should I trim the hip pockets with silk or leave them be...I'm leaning towards the latter

 

[Andy57]

I like that idea...should I trim the hip pockets with silk or leave them be...I'm leaning towards the latter

That's a tough one. I'd go with your lean, probably. I might trim them in the silk, but I am not sure.

 

[Andy57]

I think this is the fourth formal Friday in a row, now. This is about as straight down the line as I get, with a black Dormeuil Amadeus peak lapel dinner jacket, marcella front shirt, and a cummerbund. The only variation might be to swap out the tie for a diamond-point version, or a larger butterfly, and exchange the cummerbund for a waistcoat (which is what I did for @UrbanComposition's Quarantine Karaoke this morning).

The dinner jacket is by Hemrajani, the shirt by Emma Willis, tie by Le Noeud Papillon, cummerbund by Budd, and vintage linen pocket square by Simonnot-Godard.

 

[AdductorMagnus]

Is my screen wonky, or is that an ice-blue shirt?

 

[Big A]

Zoom cocktail hour in the world’s cheapest Chinese smoking jacket

 

[Andy57]

Is my screen wonky, or is that an ice-blue shirt?

Your screen is wonky. It's white.

It's not really your screen. It might be the iPhone, or it might just be that I'm standing in shadow that makes white shirts (not just this one) look blue.

 

[The Chai]

I think this is the fourth formal Friday in a row, now. This is about as straight down the line as I get, with a black Dormeuil Amadeus peak lapel dinner jacket, marcella front shirt, and a cummerbund. The only variation might be to swap out the tie for a diamond-point version, or a larger butterfly, and exchange the cummerbund for a waistcoat (which is what I did for @UrbanComposition's Quarantine Karaoke this morning).

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The dinner jacket is by Hemrajani, the shirt by Emma Willis, tie by Le Noeud Papillon, cummerbund by Budd, and vintage linen pocket square by Simonnot-Godard.

Almost all my bow ties are diamond points...personally I think that shape has the most character

 

[Big A]

Almost all my bow ties are diamond points...personally I think that shape has the most character

I have a few but they always look wrong to me. After a drink or two I forget about it.