The Rubinacci Thread.

[A Y]

Originally Posted by whnay.

I couldn't disagree more with this assessment. DBs are almost always more formal than SBs.

Perhaps this is covered by your "almost" qualification, but aren't DB dinner jackets considered less formal than SB?

--Andre

 

[chorse123]

All the DB pictures make me want to get a specifically informal db.

 

[whnay.]

Here are some pics of the sportcoats.

 

[voxsartoria]

Nice, B.

Who made the trousers?

- B

 

[Brad]

Very nice and very iammattish, but it seems like the shoulder on your jackets is slightly different. Is that right?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Andre Yew

Perhaps this is covered by your "almost" qualification, but aren't DB dinner jackets considered less formal than SB?

--Andre

Conventional historical wisdom would assert tht SB is always more formal than DB...because a proper SB had always included a vest. The vestless DB was the informal alternative to that form of...let's trot it out the phrase (groan)...lounge suit. This distinction persists most reliably in semi-formal wear, as you note. If you wear a vest with your SB dinner jacket, you will look and be more formal than a dude wearing a DB dinner jacket.

What informalized the SB lounge suit more than DB was the abandonment of the vest. Americans had a lot to do with this, and part the reason is practical since so much of the country is subject to tropical temperatures...as is true in the Northeast today as I type. Americans abandoned the vest quite gleefully.

So, the way I see it:

Most formal: SB three piece (and the rarer DB three piece)
Less formal: DB without vest
Less formal still: SB without vest.

- B

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Who made the trousers?
Brunello C

 

[Baron]

I really dig the cloth on both of those jackets. Beautiful lapel roll, too. I agree that the shoulders on your jackets seem slightly more structured that Matt's - perhaps this has something to do with differing body types?

 

[Manton]

Don't know about the differences in the guts (if any), but whnay's shoulders have more conventional open seams, whereas Matt's are nearly all shirtsleeves (or for you FNB trolls who giggle at the phrase ... SPALLA CAMICIA!).

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Brunello C

BC's stuff is reliably nice.

I like the roped shoulders on you...I wouldn't change that. The way that your shoulders drop looks better with the roping than it would without.

- B

 

[Brad]

Originally Posted by Manton

Don't know about the differences in the guts (if any), but whnay's shoulders have more conventional open seams, whereas Matt's are nearly all shirtsleeves (or for you FNB trolls who giggle at the phrase ... SPALLA CAMICIA!).

For some reason I thought the shirt sleeve was Rubinacci's house style. Most likely, I am mistaken.

Btw, Bill, the capped sleeve looks very nice.

 

[Aries]

Originally Posted by Brad

Very nice and very iammattish,

+1, very similar to Iammatt's.

Whnay, love the DB as well as the second (olive) coat, which seems damn near perfect to me. The top of the sleeves on the sportcoats appear a little slimmer than on the DB, not sure if there's an actual difference or just the pictures.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Brad

For some reason I thought the shirt sleeve was Rubinacci's house style. Most likely, I am mistaken.

It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.

 

[Brad]

Originally Posted by Manton

It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.

That makes sense. I noticed Matt's dinner jacket is the more typical open seam.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by Manton

It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.
We discussed this at my first appointment with him and he persuaded me to do the open seam shoulder. My next order is going to include a fresco which I will request specifically "shirt sleeves", just to see what it looks like on me.