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The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps this is covered by your "almost" qualification, but aren't DB dinner jackets considered less formal than SB?

    --Andre


    Conventional historical wisdom would assert tht SB is always more formal than DB...because a proper SB had always included a vest. The vestless DB was the informal alternative to that form of...let's trot it out the phrase (groan)...lounge suit. This distinction persists most reliably in semi-formal wear, as you note. If you wear a vest with your SB dinner jacket, you will look and be more formal than a dude wearing a DB dinner jacket.

    What informalized the SB lounge suit more than DB was the abandonment of the vest. Americans had a lot to do with this, and part the reason is practical since so much of the country is subject to tropical temperatures...as is true in the Northeast today as I type. Americans abandoned the vest quite gleefully.

    So, the way I see it:

    Most formal: SB three piece (and the rarer DB three piece)
    Less formal: DB without vest
    Less formal still: SB without vest.

    - B
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    Who made the trousers?
    Brunello C
     
  3. Baron

    Baron Well-Known Member

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    I really dig the cloth on both of those jackets. Beautiful lapel roll, too. I agree that the shoulders on your jackets seem slightly more structured that Matt's - perhaps this has something to do with differing body types?
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Don't know about the differences in the guts (if any), but whnay's shoulders have more conventional open seams, whereas Matt's are nearly all shirtsleeves (or for you FNB trolls who giggle at the phrase ... SPALLA CAMICIA!).
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Brunello C

    BC's stuff is reliably nice.

    I like the roped shoulders on you...I wouldn't change that. The way that your shoulders drop looks better with the roping than it would without.

    - B
     
  6. Brad

    Brad Well-Known Member

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    Don't know about the differences in the guts (if any), but whnay's shoulders have more conventional open seams, whereas Matt's are nearly all shirtsleeves (or for you FNB trolls who giggle at the phrase ... SPALLA CAMICIA!).

    For some reason I thought the shirt sleeve was Rubinacci's house style. Most likely, I am mistaken.

    Btw, Bill, the capped sleeve looks very nice.
     
  7. Aries

    Aries Well-Known Member

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    Very nice and very iammattish,

    +1, very similar to Iammatt's.

    Whnay, love the DB as well as the second (olive) coat, which seems damn near perfect to me. The top of the sleeves on the sportcoats appear a little slimmer than on the DB, not sure if there's an actual difference or just the pictures.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    For some reason I thought the shirt sleeve was Rubinacci's house style. Most likely, I am mistaken.

    It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.
     
  9. Brad

    Brad Well-Known Member

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    It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.

    That makes sense. I noticed Matt's dinner jacket is the more typical open seam.
     
  10. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    It's an option. Mariano told me that he only prefers to do it on odd jackets or on informal suits, but he will do it on request on any suit. If you don't specify, you won't get it. He said that for certain customers who pick a certain informal cloth, he might raise it as a possibility. But if you go in there and order a dark gray worsted and don't specify, you will get a more typical open seam shoulder.
    We discussed this at my first appointment with him and he persuaded me to do the open seam shoulder. My next order is going to include a fresco which I will request specifically "shirt sleeves", just to see what it looks like on me.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    whnay,
    The cloths seem to be heavier weights. Are these clothes you would wear year round in Atlanta?
     
  12. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    whnay,
    The cloths seem to be heavier weights. Are these clothes you would wear year round in Atlanta?

    Not a chance, I bought them for the short winter months and my biz travels (NYC, Chicago, London).
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Don't know about the differences in the guts (if any), but whnay's shoulders have more conventional open seams, whereas Matt's are nearly all shirtsleeves (or for you FNB trolls who giggle at the phrase ... SPALLA CAMICIA!).

    For what it's worth, Luca Rubinacci called it 'spalla camicia' when I met him in NYC.
     
  14. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    It's always nice to see a classic Navy sportcoat that demonstrates how a stylish cut and design make it seem modern and fresh versus dated or boring.
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Awesome fabric. I think I've seen the swatch before but can't remember where. Details?

    I'm a big giana camica fan so I tend to think everyone who's a normal weight looks better in that - I think you might like it.
     
  16. A Y

    A Y Well-Known Member

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    Here are some pics of the sportcoats.

    [​IMG]


    Now this is what I think of when I think of Rubinacci. Very nice!

    Is it just me, or do those trousers need their back shortened? I'm looking at the bagging material behind the thighs.

    --Andre
     
  17. A Y

    A Y Well-Known Member

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    Most formal: SB three piece (and the rarer DB three piece)
    Less formal: DB without vest
    Less formal still: SB without vest.


    Thanks Bill. That makes sense, and is a bit more nuanced.

    --Andre
     
  18. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    Now this is what I think of when I think of Rubinacci. Very nice!

    Is it just me, or do those trousers need their back shortened? I'm looking at the bagging material behind the thighs.

    --Andre

    I have a big ass.
     
  19. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Is it just me, or do those trousers need their back shortened? I'm looking at the bagging material behind the thighs.

    --Andre


    I don't think so, I have them with some pants and I think it has more to do with the fabric drape and standing still for a picture than any excess fabric. The pants that I own that photgraph that way I just could not take any fabric in at the thigh without looking like a sausage
     
  20. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    Awesome fabric. I think I've seen the swatch before but can't remember where. Details?

    Porter & Harding Glenroyal
     

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