The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. untilted

    untilted Senior member

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    Trad (classic pattern, natural shoulder, soft lapel roll) with waist suppression. i love it.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Bill and Matt. F., since the two of you were measured in Naples, but then fitted in London and/or NYC, did you pay the Neopolitan price?

    To clarify, I was fitted in Naples. I was measured there with Mariano, and then had two subsequent fittings with both Mariano and Gennaro. Mariano only delivered and checked over the final garment in NYC.

    I'm pretty sure I've been paying the Naples price, as all my receipts have counted everything in euros.

    Nice suit. How much stylistic flexibility does Rubinacci allow? For my tastes, I'd probably want slightly narrower lapels and a shorter jacket. Perhaps slightly narrower sleeves as well. Did you talk to him about these kinds of details, or does you suit reflect the house style?

    Do you feel the upper arm is a tad too full, whnay.? Maybe it's just a funny angle in the pic.

    Mariano is flexible to some degree--but really, you are paying a whole lot of euros for (1) a Rubinacci jacket, and (2) the advice of the man himself. I imagine that clients wishing to micromanage won't find as much value in Rubinacci to begin with.

    That's not to say Mariano won't work with your ideas. For example, I said I wanted a higher gorge. Mariano happened to agree that it would suit me and worked with Gennaro to get the right balance during my fittings. I didn't fuss about the exact height or the shape of the lapel. After getting to know Mariano, though, I have developed a very strong faith in his taste. Had he disagreed about a higher gorge, I can't say I would have fought over it.

    The full sleeve is a trademark feature of a Rubinacci jacket. It's so essential to the look that I would almost suggest you seek out other tailors before turning to Rubinacci. You might as well ask them to build up your shoulders while you're at it.

    I wonder, particularly since Ianmatt is fluent in Italian, how you all settled on Rubinacci as a tailor when there are tailors in Naples that are half the cost (sic?) but have excellent reputations, for example Panico.

    I chose Rubinacci for the sake of style, reputation, accessibility, and service. While there are other tailors in Naples who can make a wonderful suit, I know of none that offer all of those things to the same degree.

    +1,000,000. I can't wait to see a vested Rubinacci suit (but with a low cut 1B, 2B or 3R2B SB jacket and a classic style SB vest, preferably 6X5B and preferably with a notch lapel, though 5B and 6B and/or w/o a lapel will do just fine). [​IMG]

    For what it's worth, Mariano wanted to make a grey-beige linen vest with white piping to go with my charcoal one-button suit. I think it would have looked great for my wedding, but I was too cheap to pay for it [​IMG].

    . . .

    Bill, I happen to think your suit looks wonderful. A lot of criticisms against it seem to stem from misunderstandings of how a Rubinacci suit is supposed to look. It would be sacrilege to build up your shoulders or narrow the sleeves--not just because it wouldn't be the Rubinacci way, but because it wouldn't look good anymore. If someone is of the philosophy that unique features of a person's body should be 'corrected' by tailoring, Rubinacci is the last place he should go to.

    When you first PM'ed me about receiving your suit, you were ecstatic about the results. I think your reaction was justified.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I thought it might be fun and helpful to see how everyone's Rubinacci jackets look side-by-side. I cropped and sized the photos to make comparison easier.

    [​IMG]

    I think all the talk of different styles and cuts goes too far; you'd go crazy trying to create a meaningful taxonomy. To me, these photos show that the same Rubinacci approach simply applies to each client's body in a unique way.
     


  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    ^^^ Great comparo. I like them all, but I like Bill's DB the best.

    But to be fair, LC Matt has many, and as a whole, they are about the finest looking stable of bespoke clothes in the Internerd world.

    The one that would benefit most from thiis comparo with a bit of...uhm, tightening...would be C's. As I look at these four pics, I kinda think the balance is off on C's (sorry dude). Perhaps it's the angle of the photo.

    All four of you are well turned out guys in your duds, though.

    - B
     


  5. untilted

    untilted Senior member

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    Cantabrigian's jacket is indeed a bit "sacky". haha.
     


  6. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    I thought it might fun and helpful to see how everyone's Rubinacci jackets look side-by-side. I cropped and sized the photos to make comparison easier.

    [​IMG]

    I think all the talk of different styles and cuts goes too far; you'd go crazy trying to create a meaningful taxonomy. To me, these photos show that the same Rubinacci approach simply applies to each client's body in a unique way.


    Nice analysis. I think, as you and others have said before, you get what you pay for: Rubinacci.
     


  7. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Suitsupply-sider

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    They all look nice but I really like Cantabrigian and whnay's jackets.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most defining element of the three single breasted jackets is the button position. This may be effected by camera angle but in these shots Cant's is low, Mafoo is high, Iam is just about right. A Goldilocks analysis
     


  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Most defining element of the three single breasted jackets is the button position. This may be effected by camera angle but in these shots Cant's is low, Mafoo is high, Iam is just about right. A Goldilocks analysis

    I am thinking now that the reason why I like Bill's the most is that the DB by definition is not going to have such open quarters as in LC Matt's jacket. This shot of this jacket on iammatt is not as great as other photos...that's more likely photography than reality.

    Reality check time: this is all quibbling, and while you can analyze accurately from a photo, the rest of us are blowing hot air at various volumes.

    But, I do feel there is something different about C's jacket, and we might be discerning a disconnect when stylist, cutter and fitter are not in the same room at the same time with a client.

    - B
     


  10. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Most defining element of the three single breasted jackets is the button position. This may be effected by camera angle but in these shots Cant's is low, Mafoo is high, Iam is just about right. A Goldilocks analysis

    I agree completely.

    Cantabrigian's jacket is indeed a bit "sacky". haha.

    That's it. I'm going to the 24-hr post office and mailing it back tonight to get the waist taken in. If you can't impress people on the internet, what the heck is the point? [​IMG]
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    That's it. I'm going to the 24-hr post office and mailing it back tonight to get the waist taken in. If you can't impress people on the internet, what the heck is the point? [​IMG]

    Hah!

    Perhaps your fit is the best among the four? Or, more likely, it expresses your personality as explained and discerned during your measurement and fitting, and the outcome was looser and lower.

    Iammatt's Rubinacci photography is so dominating as Rubinacci samples on the interwebs that one might fall prey to thinking that is how Rubinacci looks. But, it just might be a look peculiar to him.

    In fact, your coat looks the most like what Mariano Rubinacci wears himself among the four samples in mafoofan's comparo.

    I do think you can revisit the balance of the jacket though, and if it were me, I might winch it in a bit.

    - B
     


  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do think you can revisit the balance of the jacket though, and if it were me, I might winch it in a bit.

    - B


    Yeah, but I prefer the body length to that of the other 2 SBs-- to the extent it makes to say so without knowing exactly how long everyone's legs are.

    That said, Matt's is beautifully proportioned taken by itself, and I like the degree of drape he gets in the chest.
     


  13. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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  14. academe

    academe Senior member

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    I thought it might fun and helpful to see how everyone's Rubinacci jackets look side-by-side. I cropped and sized the photos to make comparison easier.

    [​IMG]

    I think all the talk of different styles and cuts goes too far; you'd go crazy trying to create a meaningful taxonomy. To me, these photos show that the same Rubinacci approach simply applies to each client's body in a unique way.


    Great comparison. Fruits born from the same tree... [​IMG]
     


  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I do think you can revisit the balance of the jacket though, and if it were me, I might winch it in a bit.

    Agree on the winching - I don't think I'm in for a Mafoo amount of winching but a little more is definitely in order.

    When you say balance do you mean it in the Manton way or something else? It's kind of tricky to get it centered on my shoulders since the shoulders are a bit extended and generally not all that defined but when I do, I think both sides hang pretty much the same.
     


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