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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

JUAN MANUEL

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Manowar

Thank you for shearing, is impressive the amount of information you have organized :slayer:. I find that the Church's Consul in 173 last is missing; this is Church's most popular model.

Best regards

JM
 

scurvyfreedman

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I was intrigued by the premise of this thread. The black cap toe oxford is an anchor in menswear and should never be taken for granted. So many makers have offered their take on this quintessential style, making it difficult for the discriminating buyer to find a model that will fit well and stay within budget. Having recently sold my latest pair of black cap-toes, I am considering what my next purchase will be, so I decided to put together a database of comparable shots of many different lasts. I wanted to share what I found. Obviously, an overhead shot of a shoe will not give us a definitive idea of how it will fit one's foot, much less the quality of the materials and construction. But this comparison can at least provide a sort of benchmark for those who are considering investing in their next pair of timeless shoes. Approximate retail price in USD (tax and shipping excluded) | Maker | Model | Last (if applicable) $430 | Alfred Sargent | Armfield | 109 last
Thanks for the compilation. I have to say, price to quality and styling nothing stands out more than the AS. I have a lot of AS, but not this model. My first pair of good shoes were Aldens cap toe, so it was not something I needed, but if I were to start over, it would be AS all the way.
 

Chowkin

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Thanks for the compilation. I have to say, price to quality and styling nothing stands out more than the AS. I have a lot of AS, but not this model. My first pair of good shoes were Aldens cap toe, so it was not something I needed, but if I were to start over, it would be AS all the way.


Plus if you buy them from AFPOS, lasted shoe trees are included for free!
 

manowar

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I agree that the Alfred Sargent stands out in that price point. Amazingly, AFPOS sells them for the same price as Herring, with lasted trees and Saphir wax included!

Also keep in mind that the Herring Charles II is made by Alfred Sargent on the same last as the Armfield. If the only difference is the open channel stitching then that's a good value.

There were some other great value options that stood out to me in the finishing department such as the Septieme Largeur Eugene (close channel), the Cobbler Union Richard (close channel AND quilted leather insole) and the Crownhill Bogart (JR soles).

Other standouts to me are J. Fitzpatrick (great company and beautiful finishing such as close channel etc.) and Yanko (Spanish maker between Meermin and Carmina, some have compared them favorably with Carmina).

And the worst looking shoe on the list? Most certainly the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue... this coming from an ardent AE supporter.
 
Last edited:

manowar

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see previous post
Well, it looks like all of my recent updates to this post were rolled back after the update, and now I am unable to edit the post at all. And the pictures.... all gone. I am going to wait this one out and hope for a resolution!
 

classics

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@wurger,
would you be kind enough to tell me about the difference of fit between Loake Aldwych vs AS Armfield 109last.

I have Loake Aldwych size 8.5, however it is a bit loose fitting and I have to use an insole for a good fit.

My question is should I go for size 8.5 for AS Armfield or should I reduce the size to UK 8.0.

Thanks
 

Cleav

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IMG_2196.JPG
 

Cleav

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