The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

[mosy]



Not to mention that lacing

Is there something wrong with traditional lacing? I know bar lacing is a cleaner look but I happen to like the classic lacing better.

 

[knappabn]



What are these??

 

[mosy]



What are these??

If you're asking about the maker they are Santoni Fatte A Mano.

 

[Beach Bum]

Can't go wrong with Santoni cap toes, I'm going on five years with a great pair, that in hindsight got me into the hobby of high end shoes, and they still look brand new. Will take some pics and add to this thread.

 

[knappabn]



If you're asking about the maker they are Santoni Fatte A Mano.

Thank you. I've been looking for a slightly more interesting captoe and I will add Santoni to my search.

 

[Chowkin]



Is there something wrong with traditional lacing? I know bar lacing is a cleaner look but I happen to like the classic lacing better.

Quote:

Straight lacing is considered the correct method for shoes with closed laces, while criss-cross lacing is considered appropriate for open laced and casual shoes.

Dress shoes such as Oxfords are best secured with straight lacing because it allows the uppers of the shoe to come completely together in the middle. The laces run parallel and straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside. The underlying zig-zag mess will be completely hidden – presenting a clean and uncluttered view from the top.

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoes-straight-lacing/

 

[mosy]



Quote:

Straight lacing is considered the correct method for shoes with closed laces, while criss-cross lacing is considered appropriate for open laced and casual shoes.

Dress shoes such as Oxfords are best secured with straight lacing because it allows the uppers of the shoe to come completely together in the middle. The laces run parallel and straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside. The underlying zig-zag mess will be completely hidden – presenting a clean and uncluttered view from the top.

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoes-straight-lacing/

I highly doubt they are the final authority. That's their opinion. Incidentally, there is nothing about cross cross lacing that stops the 2 sides from coming completely together, as proven in my photos. Re the look, yes it's cleaner. That doesn't make it more proper.

 

[jonathanS]

Quote:

Straight lacing is considered the correct method for shoes with closed laces, while criss-cross lacing is considered appropriate for open laced and casual shoes.

Dress shoes such as Oxfords are best secured with straight lacing because it allows the uppers of the shoe to come completely together in the middle. The laces run parallel and straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside. The underlying zig-zag mess will be completely hidden – presenting a clean and uncluttered view from the top.

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoes-straight-lacing/

I highly doubt they are the final authority. That's their opinion. Incidentally, there is nothing about cross cross lacing that stops the 2 sides from coming completely together, as proven in my photos. Re the look, yes it's cleaner. That doesn't make it more proper.

It's a preference thing. It's just like taste - some people like spicy food, some don't. That said, given the more formal nature of oxfords, especially black oxfords, I'd go with the bar lacing (with the mess underneath) I find straight bar too much of a pain ********** to tighten. The cleaner nature, imo makes it more formal. But then again, I like things cleaner.

 

[repete66219]

What a great thread! I was waiting for AE to have a sale so I could buy a pair of Park Avenues. This thread changed my mind. Now I'm waiting on a pair of Armfields to ship from Shoe Healer. Thanks for the information.

 

[jonathanS]



What a great thread!  I was waiting for AE to have a sale so I could buy a pair of Park Avenues.  This thread changed my mind.  Now I'm waiting on a pair of Armfields to ship from Shoe Healer.  Thanks for the information.

Alfred Sargents are great shoes! You won't be disappointed! Imho theyre right at the sweet spot between quality and price. Great call!

 

[jssdc]



What a great thread!  I was waiting for AE to have a sale so I could buy a pair of Park Avenues.  This thread changed my mind.  Now I'm waiting on a pair of Armfields to ship from Shoe Healer.  Thanks for the information.

MUCH better call than PA's!!!

 

[clee1982]

Chelsea 3

 

[jssdc]

^^^ they look lovely (really) but I think this is the wrong "quintessential" thread.

 

[clee1982]

Aha yup thought I was posting on the cj thread...

 

[manowar]

I was intrigued by the premise of this thread. The black cap toe oxford is an anchor in menswear and should never be taken for granted. So many makers have offered their take on this quintessential style, making it difficult for the discriminating buyer to find a model that will fit well and stay within budget. Having recently sold my latest pair of black cap-toes, I am considering what my next purchase will be, so I decided to put together a database of comparable shots of many different lasts. I wanted to share what I found.

Obviously, an overhead shot of a shoe will not give us a definitive idea of how it will fit one's foot, much less the quality of the materials and construction. But this comparison can at least provide a sort of benchmark for those who are considering investing in their next pair of timeless shoes.

The shoes in my search had to meet this criteria:

• traditional cap-toe oxford
• no perforations
• leather uppers
• leather or mostly leather sole
• currently available for purchase online
• ready-to-wear
• overhead photographs available

Please note that I own none of these photos, and that some have been edited for consistency and clarity.

I will be adding more details in the future including construction methods and leather type. Most models are Goodyear welted or Blake stitched (some Bologna construction too), but a few of the cheaper models are cemented.

The following list is sorted by price low to high, but remember, the higher price does not necessarily mean it is a better shoe! It should also be considered that some models are more readily offered at discounted prices than others.

Approximate retail price in USD (tax and shipping excluded) | Maker | Model | Last (if applicable)

$60 | Giorgio Brutini | Courtland



$79 | Samuel Windsor | Oxford



$99 | Samuel Windsor | Prestige Oxford



$125 | Florsheim | Edgar



$130 | Herring | Hull | 3625 last



$148 | Anthony Veer | Clinton



$165 | Massimo Matteo | Nappa



$176 | Loake Smith | Matrix last



$192 | Herring | Rackenford | 110 last



$192 | Sanders for Pediwear | Leicester | Stet last

$194 | Sanders | Oxford | 4831 last


$194 | Sanders | Oxford | 4831 last


$195 | Jack Erwin | Joe


$208 | Barker | Newman | 446 last


$212 | Crownhill | Chicago | Crawford last


$212 | Crownhill | New York | Wellesley last


$225 | Vince Camuto | Eeric



$233 | Herring Knightsbridge | 026 last



$233 | Herring Mayfair | 386 last



$233 | Loake | Aldwych | Capital last



$233 | Loake | Rothschild | Duke last



$234 | Herring | Dickens | z160 last



$238 | Barker | Arnold | 69 last

$238 | Barker | Winsford | 469 last


$238 | Barker | Dermot | 339 last


$244 | Herring | Babbacombe | Combe last


$263 | Yanko | 14691 | 970 last


$263 | Yanko | 14660 | 962 last


$263 | Yanko | 14601 | 961 last



$ 269 | Sanders | Cheam | 14225 last


$270 | Septieme Largeur | Eugene | 199 Last

$275 | Johnston & Murphy | Hyde Park 2


$278 | Mezlan | Sintra



$285 | Cheaney | Lime | 11028 last



$288 | J. Crew | Ludlow

$295 | Ace Marks | Griffin


$295 | Donald Pliner | Valerico



$325 | Magnanni | Bonete



$337 | Herring | Churchill 2 | 205 last



$343 | J. Fitzpatrick | Magnolia | TMZ last


$349 | Andrew Lock | Oxford


$350 | Shoepassion | 543 | Classic last


$350 | Shoepassion | 548 | Italian last

$350 | Shoepassion | 556 | French


$356 | Sanders | Stockholm | Ken


$363 | Cheaney | Alfred | 125 last



$363 | Cheaney | Warwick | 11525 last



$363 | Herring | Charles II | 109 last



$375 | Monte Rosso | Lazio


$376 | Barker | Falsgrave


$389 | Trickers | Regent



$395 | Allen Edmonds | Exchange Place | 1943 last


$395 | Allen Edmonds | Park Avenue | 65 last


$395 | Cobbler Union | Richard | City last


$395 | To Boot New York | Aiden


$395 | To Boot New York | Brandon


$395 | Gordon Rush | Evans


$399 | Paul Evans | Cagney (non-stitched)


$399 | Paul Evans | Cagney II (stitched)


$424 | Crownhill | Bogart | Lennon last


$425 | Bruno Magli | Maioco


$430 | Alfred Sargent | Armfield | 109 last



$435 | Magnanni | Golay


$450 | Carmina | 732 | Forest last


$450 | Carmina | 80386 | Rain last


$450 | Carmina | Gabriel | Simpson last


$450 | Magnanni | Lena


$450 | Mezlan | G120


$495 | Allen Edmonds | Hopkinson | 201 last


$540 | Alden | Oxford | Hampton last


$542 | Church's | Dubai | 136 last


$550 | Enzo Bonafe | 3672 | 804 last


$550 | Enzo Bonafe | 3863 | 74945 last


$575 | Church's Ruston | 159 last



$595 | Salvatore Ferragamo | Guru


$600 | A. Testoni | Lux Calf Oxford


$633 | Church's | Consul | 173 last


$635 | Crockett & Jones | Radstock | 341 last


$635 | Crockett & Jones | Connaught | 236 last



$635 | Crockett & Jones | Hallam | 348 last


$675 | J.M. Weston | Country Gents Collection Oxford



$675 | J.M. Weston | Great Classics Collection Oxford



$675 | J.M. Weston | Savile Collection Oxford



$740 | Salvatore Ferragamo | Fiorenzo

$740 | Salvatore Ferragamo | Luce


$745 | Santoni | Darian


$830 | Crockett & Jones | Audley | 337 last


$830 | Crockett & Jones | Lonsdale | 363 last


$845 | Versace Collection


$1150 | Gianzo & Girling | GG06

$1220 | Edward Green | Chelsea | 202 last (also made on the 82 and 915 lasts)


$1225 | Stefano Bemer | 6430 | C last (also made on the J last)



$1340 | John Lobb | City II | 7000 last



$1770 | Corthay | Volney | Pullman

$1790 | Tom Ford | Gianni


$2295 | Anthony Cleverly | Bodie


I realize notable brands like Vass are missing, but this is due to my inability to find straight-overhead shots. If you notice any issues please let me know. I welcome links to anything I may have missed that will help me expand the database.

Crockett & Jones comparison of lasts



Thanks for reading, I hope this post has been helpful!