The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

[waynewei]

Hi waynewei,
which of these JLs is better according your opinion?

I bought philip2 when I was a undergraduate，Just upgrading my wardrobe from some fashion house. So I found philip2 is pretty well balanced since the quality of the upper, the so called imitation bevelled waist, the most balanced last shape 7000.
John lobby Paris to me, is more considered as a piece of art. It is quite different from most of the bespoke shoemakers. They are pursuing the ultimate. It is just too neat. The last shape is quite mordern classic. I actually cannot enjoy the last shape of lobb st James because it is just too old fashioned.

But now, when I have seen enough house styles, I found lobb James is my favorite even it is not as neat as lobb Paris. Maybe the reason is I lived in London. Philip2 is just too pointy for me now.

 

[SergeyG]

I bought philip2 when I was a undergraduate，Just upgrading my wardrobe from some fashion house. So I found philip2 is pretty well balanced since the quality of the upper, the so called imitation bevelled waist, the most balanced last shape 7000.
John lobby Paris to me, is more considered as a piece of art. It is quite different from most of the bespoke shoemakers. They are pursuing the ultimate. It is just too neat. The last shape is quite mordern classic. I actually cannot enjoy the last shape of lobb st James because it is just too old fashioned.

But now, when I have seen enough house styles, I found lobb James is my favorite even it is not as neat as lobb Paris. Maybe the reason is I lived in London. Philip2 is just too pointy for me now.

Have you had experience with bespoke from Foster&Son ?
Sorry for disturbing but I`m trying to find bespoke shoemaker for me

 

[waynewei]

Have you had experience with bespoke from Foster&Son ?
Sorry for disturbing but I`m trying to find bespoke shoemaker for me

Not yet. Actually I prefer their previous house style, the do have some attractive bespoke samples.(Fred Aastire's spectator)
And Foster's current owner is a very nice gentlemen, he generously showed me around their workshop, introduced their old samples. But I was hesitatiing of ordering since their recent house style is quite different, tending to become like lobb paris OR Japanese shoemakers.
For the construction, foster is definitely well made as all other top-tier shoemakers. For the fitting, I could say anything because I haven't owned a pair. For the style, I really like the fading effect of their old samples, but I talked to Mr.Johnson(Owner), he told me only imitative fading effect can be done by bleaching. For their finish, it's stunning but a bit over-finished for my taste.

Hope this will help you but it really depend on your personal taste.

 

[clee1982]

The London Lobb St James you posted certainly have short toecap by modern standard, though looks like you grow into it more? I guess you won't touch the like of George Cleverly or Gaziano Girling if you find modern Lobb to pointy?

 

[waynewei]

The London Lobb St James you posted certainly have short toecap by modern standard, though looks like you grow into it more? I guess you won't touch the like of George Cleverly or Gaziano Girling if you find modern Lobb to pointy?

yes，it is quite a short captoe. But As long as the cap doesnt crease，it will be fine to my taste just like the ancient model.

I do have cleverleys bespoke，but it is only for my informal shoes..cleverleys have super thin upper and extremely light feeling during wear.


I dont have any GG， if you like chisel toe， go cleverleys， they are original.

 

[clee1982]

Damn your work environment got to be uber conservative if a wingtip with medallion toe on thin welt is still informal... all your shoes looks amazing wear them in good health. I definitely want to try GC at certain point.

 

[waynewei]

Damn your work environment got to be uber conservative if a wingtip with medallion toe on thin welt is still informal... all your shoes looks amazing wear them in good health. I definitely want to try GC at certain point.

cheers ：）
formal to me is navy anderson sheppard DB suit with lobb st james black cap toe.
actually the light wearing feeling of GC makes me feel informal

 

[clee1982]

Haha, all I can remember is when I worked in London I was the few guys not wearing black shoes

 

[clee1982]

Though quite a lot wasn't wearing cap toe either.

 

[waynewei]

Haha, all I can remember is when I worked in London I was the few guys not wearing black shoes

isnt philip too pointy ？

 

[mosy]

It's the invasion of the Perfs!!!

 

[SergeyG]

oth both

Not yet. Actually I prefer their previous house style, the do have some attractive bespoke samples.(Fred Aastire's spectator)
And Foster's current owner is a very nice gentlemen, he generously showed me around their workshop, introduced their old samples. But I was hesitatiing of ordering since their recent house style is quite different, tending to become like lobb paris OR Japanese shoemakers.
For the construction, foster is definitely well made as all other top-tier shoemakers. For the fitting, I could say anything because I haven't owned a pair. For the style, I really like the fading effect of their old samples, but I talked to Mr.Johnson(Owner), he told me only imitative fading effect can be done by bleaching. For their finish, it's stunning but a bit over-finished for my taste.

Hope this will help you but it really depend on your personal taste.

Could you please compare your both besboke JLs with Edward Green Top Drawer (quality, shape, etc)?
EGs last 202 has most classical and traditional toe shape of all shoes and are very attractive in my opinion.
In case I'll order bespoke I would like to copy toe shape of EG 202.
Is it worth to copy EG 202 to bespoke shoes or stick to EG TD?

 

[waynewei]

oth both

Could you please compare your both besboke JLs with Edward Green Top Drawer (quality, shape, etc)?
EGs last 202 has most classical and traditional toe shape of all shoes and are very attractive in my opinion.
In case I'll order bespoke I would like to copy toe shape of EG 202.
Is it worth to copy EG 202 to bespoke shoes or stick to EG TD?

I don't have top drawer, but I have several pairs of rtw from EG, they are literally my favourite rtw shoes. EG's leather is very easy to mirror polishing and it ages very much which I enjoyed most. John lobb st james has very similar last with EG 82 small round toe. 202 is a bit too wide for my taste. So I would say 82 is smart and conservative.
Top drawer have lovely waist and heel shape. I believe the insole could be handwelted at that price level. The outsole is definitely machine stitched. If you feel comfortable with the last of EG, u should just go top drawer. Bespoke lobb paris is a totally different story, it's just extremely neat and the fitting is the best I have ever had as well as the leather quality.

But if you go bespoke, u don't stick with the 202, there are dozen of choices to make ur very own one. I havn't seen many bespoke shoes with 202-similar last, not elegant enough IMHO.

 

[SergeyG]

I don't have top drawer, but I have several pairs of rtw from EG, they are literally my favourite rtw shoes. EG's leather is very easy to mirror polishing and it ages very much which I enjoyed most. John lobb st james has very similar last with EG 82 small round toe. 202 is a bit too wide for my taste. So I would say 82 is smart and conservative.
Top drawer have lovely waist and heel shape. I believe the insole could be handwelted at that price level. The outsole is definitely machine stitched. If you feel comfortable with the last of EG, u should just go top drawer. Bespoke lobb paris is a totally different story, it's just extremely neat and the fitting is the best I have ever had as well as the leather quality.

But if you go bespoke, u don't stick with the 202, there are dozen of choices to make ur very own one. I havn't seen many bespoke shoes with 202-similar last, not elegant enough IMHO.

Thanks a lot for the info waynewei.

 

[xJohnyyx]

Could you guys help me decide on the toebox for my first cap toe?

Here's the relevant info: I'm a twenty-something starting out in the legal profession in Europe. I like to dress correct but stylish in that realm. This will (for now) be my only black dress shoe.

I do like the chisel toe and a look on Mr. Tom Ford's website tells me that at least he thinks it's currently essential. However, I wonder if that should remain a variation rather than one's only option. Therefore I lean towards the slim round toe, which seems like a decent compromise.

1: Chisel

2: Slim last round

3: Traditional round