Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Slewfoot, Oct 15, 2010.
Aaargh! Shiver me timbers! The Official StyleForvm Eyepatch Thread
For the sake of completeness.
Resurrecting an old thread, I recently came across this interesting patch pocket sport coat from Crittenden. I saw Chris Despos' list of patch pocket features, including:
"Make them with inverted pleats
Make them with box pleats
Make them bellows style"
but until I saw this jacket, I don't think I've ever seen this feature.
What do you think of it?
Anyone want to offer an opinion on this style?
That's an inverted pleat patch pocket.
Thanks. But what do you think of this style/feature? I'm on the fence myself, but it could just be because I haven't seen it before.
I cannot even express how glad I am that someone bumped this thread, and how sad I am that it's only three pages.
The inverted pleats on that coat is stylistic, and probably not functional.
I prefer mine with flaps, and I do cram my coat pocket with stuff.
Not that many variations on patch pockets eh?
But, but, all the different fabrics all look, different. Idk I've sat through my monet coffee table book many times over, I haven't thrown it away yet haha.
The one of mine posted above (with the button) is really a bellows pocket and is functional, though the top corners are tacked down.
It was the tacks, and how the pleats on the breast pocket were so close together that actually made me think that it wasn't functional and decorative.
Were these details found on a RTW garment? Am only guessing so because of that tag in the pocket. I saw some jacket at J Crew once that looked like it had a bi-swing back and then found out it was faux. LOL. Must have influenced my opinion regarding such details on RTW garments from then on.
The one with the pleats and bar tacks is RTW (Crittenden Rawings). It looks to be functional only in the most bare and academic sense. Mine (post #4) is bespoke and is a bellows construction (essentially, it is a box that can collapse on itself or unfold, with the top corners tacked down to keep it neater; but the bottom is free). It is copied from an old Mortimer and Meyer bespoke piece pesjek thrifted.
Don't think you posted a picture on this thread. Post #4 is by somebody else.
I had my coat made with bellow pockets as well. I had asked for slightly rounded edges but was told, rightly or not, that it's not possible to have rounded edges if I wanted bellow pockets.
Tacking the edges sounds like a very good idea especially since my pockets are now somewhat mis-shapened. Are the 'tacks' like the one from above, except at the edges? Costi provided some very good advice some time ago when he recommended that patch pockets be fully lined or that one can have a pocket within the patch pocket that one can use to store heavier stuff. I've tried the latter for my blazers.
Oh the one Slew posted is yours? What?! That's a bellow pocket? Doesn't look like one at all. Very neat. Where's the tacking? Hidden on the underside? if your coat is an example of a bellow pocket, then apparently, you CAN have a bellow pocket that is rounded. Did you meet any resistance to that request for a rounded bellow pocket?
Patch pocket on mine is identical to the one below, except that it has an inverted pleat. I was told that it was not possible to have slightly rounded edges on these.The bellow pockets on my coat looks dissimilar from your copy of Pesjek's though -- in that on my coat, the pockets 'protrude' outwards whilst on yours, they seem quite flat.
Yes. Slew posted mine. The tailor was, justly, quite proud of his work. On the other hand, since I showed him a picture, he couldn't claim it was impossible. It is remarkable how nicley they sit, even if the patterns aren't perfectly matched because of the height..
As for the tacks, that is a bit over-technical. They are simply sewn down securely - neatly, but not a specific bar tack or anything like that. Also, it has to go through four layers of tweed.
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