The Patch Pocket Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Slewfoot, Oct 15, 2010.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Likes Received:
    117
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007


  2. 518aata

    518aata Senior member

    Messages:
    1,312
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Resurrecting an old thread, I recently came across this interesting patch pocket sport coat from Crittenden. I saw Chris Despos' list of patch pocket features, including:

    "Make them with inverted pleats
    Make them with box pleats
    Make them bellows style"

    but until I saw this jacket, I don't think I've ever seen this feature.

    What do you think of it?

    Lower pockets:

    [​IMG]

    Breast pocket:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  3. 518aata

    518aata Senior member

    Messages:
    1,312
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta
    

    Anyone want to offer an opinion on this style?
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London


  5. 518aata

    518aata Senior member

    Messages:
    1,312
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta
    

    Thanks. But what do you think of this style/feature? I'm on the fence myself, but it could just be because I haven't seen it before.
     


  6. havingaraveup

    havingaraveup Senior member

    Messages:
    117
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    May 9, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    I cannot even express how glad I am that someone bumped this thread, and how sad I am that it's only three pages.
     


  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    The inverted pleats on that coat is stylistic, and probably not functional.

    I prefer mine with flaps, and I do cram my coat pocket with stuff.


    Not that many variations on patch pockets eh?
     


  8. havingaraveup

    havingaraveup Senior member

    Messages:
    117
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    May 9, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    But, but, all the different fabrics all look, different. Idk I've sat through my monet coffee table book many times over, I haven't thrown it away yet haha.
     


  9. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    The one of mine posted above (with the button) is really a bellows pocket and is functional, though the top corners are tacked down.
     


  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    It was the tacks, and how the pleats on the breast pocket were so close together that actually made me think that it wasn't functional and decorative.

    Were these details found on a RTW garment? Am only guessing so because of that tag in the pocket. I saw some jacket at J Crew once that looked like it had a bi-swing back and then found out it was faux. LOL. Must have influenced my opinion regarding such details on RTW garments from then on.
     


  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    

    The one with the pleats and bar tacks is RTW (Crittenden Rawings). It looks to be functional only in the most bare and academic sense. Mine (post #4) is bespoke and is a bellows construction (essentially, it is a box that can collapse on itself or unfold, with the top corners tacked down to keep it neater; but the bottom is free). It is copied from an old Mortimer and Meyer bespoke piece pesjek thrifted.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Don't think you posted a picture on this thread. Post #4 is by somebody else.

    I had my coat made with bellow pockets as well. I had asked for slightly rounded edges but was told, rightly or not, that it's not possible to have rounded edges if I wanted bellow pockets.

    Tacking the edges sounds like a very good idea especially since my pockets are now somewhat mis-shapened. Are the 'tacks' like the one from above, except at the edges? Costi provided some very good advice some time ago when he recommended that patch pockets be fully lined or that one can have a pocket within the patch pocket that one can use to store heavier stuff. I've tried the latter for my blazers.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  13. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Oh the one Slew posted is yours? What?! That's a bellow pocket? Doesn't look like one at all. Very neat. Where's the tacking? Hidden on the underside? if your coat is an example of a bellow pocket, then apparently, you CAN have a bellow pocket that is rounded. Did you meet any resistance to that request for a rounded bellow pocket?

    Patch pocket on mine is identical to the one below, except that it has an inverted pleat. I was told that it was not possible to have slightly rounded edges on these.The bellow pockets on my coat looks dissimilar from your copy of Pesjek's though -- in that on my coat, the pockets 'protrude' outwards whilst on yours, they seem quite flat.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,590
    Likes Received:
    1,927
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Yes. Slew posted mine. The tailor was, justly, quite proud of his work. On the other hand, since I showed him a picture, he couldn't claim it was impossible. It is remarkable how nicley they sit, even if the patterns aren't perfectly matched because of the height..
    As for the tacks, that is a bit over-technical. They are simply sewn down securely - neatly, but not a specific bar tack or anything like that. Also, it has to go through four layers of tweed.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by