The Overcoat Thread

[DonRaphael]

A perfectly proportioned ulster overcoat by Sartoria Ciardi for Simon Crompton.

View attachment 2111575

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024...cid=eb7aa3bb47&mc_eid=277eb01ada#&gid=1&pid=2

Looks good, but would benefit from another 3,5-4" in length in order to reach 1/3 below knees or mid calf, imo.

 

[clee1982]

I thought that length is pretty modern good

 

[clee1982]

I remember he had a really long coat from Edward Sexton coat that looks great (in a dramatic way) which he eventually chop, maybe that influence the practicality choice

 

[DonRaphael]

I thought that length is pretty modern good

Yes, the coat features a modern length. However, I truly believe a couple of more inches would elevate it.

I've never understood the practicality argument. I have coats that reach below the knees and coats that reach 1/3 below or mid calf as described earlier. I don't encounter any difference practicality wise with either, tbh.

 

[St1X]

Yes, the coat features a modern length. However, I truly believe a couple of more inches would elevate it.

I've never understood the practicality argument. I have coats that reach below the knees and coats that reach 1/3 below or mid calf as described earlier. I don't encounter any difference practicality wise with either, tbh.

It's a lot more comfortable to get into a cab with a shorter coat
It's a lot easier to stain the bottom of a long coat in a slushy weather

 

[DonRaphael]

It's a lot more comfortable to get into a cab with a shorter coat
It's a lot easier to stain the bottom of a long coat in a slushy weather

Sure, if they're overly long (full length). But there's absolutely no difference with regards to practicality while getting into a car. And unless you galopp like a horse while walking or you have an extremely bright coat, the staining is a non issue as well.

But what do I know, I guess I'm just not overly sensitive to these kind of non existent "issues".

 

[Praxiteles]

Don´t know if this is the right thread but give it a shot

I´m in the hunt for a new overcoat of some sort and is a bit drawn Duffels from Gloverall in a medium/dark brown. However im not sure on how to combine it with trousers and shoes. I mainly wear brown quite dark or dark olive (looks almost brown) corduroys and brown shoes.

I'm struggeling to imagine a brown coat will look to brown trousers and shoes and are afraid it will look to "solid" in lack of a better word. The easiest would of course be to just buy a navy but keen on something a little different.

https://www.popolinoshop.nu/gloverall-duffle-coat-morris-brown/

Any thougts?

 

[St1X]

Sure, if they're overly long (full length). But there's absolutely no difference with regards to practicality while getting into a car. And unless you galopp like a horse while walking or you have an extremely bright coat, the staining is a non issue as well.

But what do I know, I guess I'm just not overly sensitive to these kind of non existent "issues".

I walk really fast, so the back of my trousers usually end up stained if it's wet outside. And I don't want to get my coat stained as well

 

[DorianGreen]

Looks good, but would benefit from another 3,5-4" in length in order to reach 1/3 below knees or mid calf, imo.

Not without a reason I wrote "perfectly proportioned", as for me the length, as well as other parameters, looks ideal for the figure of the wearer.

 

[FlyingHorker]

The low buttoning point on the grey one is what makes that coat spectacular. Long lapel line is necessary on such wide lapels. One of the best polo coats I have ever seen.

Hell yeah. I love it too. So much so, I may try and have my tailor copy it.

A perfectly proportioned ulster overcoat by Sartoria Ciardi for Simon Crompton.

View attachment 2111575

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024...cid=eb7aa3bb47&mc_eid=277eb01ada#&gid=1&pid=2

Differing tastes and all that, but I think this is the perfect example of bespoke not being a good option for overcoats.

It seems like tailors go "How tight can I make this without fabric pulling?"

Simon's article goes on and on about lapel this, lapel that.

All I see is a coat that's waif-like around the waist, and has a very trim silhouette to it with no swagger.

 

[Iskander]

Hell yeah. I love it too. So much so, I may try and have my tailor copy it.

Differing tastes and all that, but I think this is the perfect example of bespoke not being a good option for overcoats.

It seems like tailors go "How tight can I make this without fabric pulling?"

Simon's article goes on and on about lapel this, lapel that.

All I see is a coat that's waif-like around the waist, and has a very trim silhouette to it with no swagger.

No swagger? I think the coat has plenty of swagger. I don't even think it's overly fitted, he's just wearing a double breasted suit underneath it in the above photo.

Kind of seems like you're letting your preference for loose fitting polo coats colour your view of this Ulster. Not every overcoat is meant to be loose fitting or looks best like that. There's room for different silhouettes to exist and look good.
But as mentioned, different tastes and all that.

 

[Jamesbond1]

We are not allowed to critique famous poster boys only troll on regular gents here! You might get banned here this is Simon Crompton he can do no wrong! Please type with extreme caution!!

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

No swagger? I think the coat has plenty of swagger. I don't even think it's overly fitted, he's just wearing a double breasted suit underneath it in the above photo.
View attachment 2112117

Kind of seems like you're letting your preference for loose fitting polo coats colour your view of this Ulster. Not every overcoat is meant to be loose fitting or looks best like that. There's room for different silhouettes to exist and look good.
But as mentioned, different tastes and all that.

Nah. It looks bad buttoned but good unbuttoned. It looks good unbuttoned because the fabric can do stuff and hang in interesting ways. It looks bad unbuttoned because it is too slim for the fabric to do anything and because it is too slim to enhance Simon's proportions. (It also looks weird and bad with the collar down.) I'm not one for dramatically oversized coats, but you do want some extra volume to flatter the chest, arms, and shoulders and let the fabric hang and flow in interesting ways. One of the reasons overcoats are so flattering is that the fabric is thick and thick fabric naturally wants to drape in ways that make you look brawnier.

 

[DonRaphael]

For the record, I also don't find Simon's coat in question to be well tailored. It's too slim and pulling at places. Something I wouldn't expect from a coat that is tailored for him.

Re length discussions, I think this pic pretty much sums it up for me. The length of the left hand coat looks so much better than the length of right hand coat and it's not even close in my book. I know, it's not the same type of coat, but even compared to Simon's coat, the length of the left hand coat below is so much better looking.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

For the record, I also don't find Simon's coat in question to be well tailored. It's too slim and pulling at places. Something I wouldn't expect from a coat that is tailored for him.

Re length discussions, I think this pic pretty much sums it up for me. The length of the left hand coat looks so much better than the length of right hand coat and it's not even close in my book. I know, it's not the same type of coat, but even compared to Simon's coat, the length of the left hand coat below is so much better looking.
View attachment 2112915

Both look good, imo. Different lengths for different styles. If the coat on the right were as long as the one on the left, it would look bad. The reverse is also probably true.